Air tools, 19v cordless or 120v corded for turning nuts

[matthew1]

On my 850 I'm going to have to do both axles soon, control arms, spring seats, some bushings probably and that doesn't even count the mess I'm in with my LF hub (which is a different subject entirely). And one day, shocks/struts. The whole front end.

Circumstance: I don't live on a 200-acre farm. It's not even 1-acre. In fact, I have one of the smallest garages known to man, so space and noise are a concern.

V70 getting spring seats and control arms almost a year ago

v70-in-garage.jpg (152.09 KiB) Viewed 1603 times

Circumstance: I'm not rich, but I can stomach large purchases if they're quality and will last.

The Question: what path should I go down? Air, cordless or electric?

Question: I know air tools are lighter and smaller, could I get away with one of those "pancake" compressors that won't keep a ratchet spinning all day, but will work (from what I've read) for short bursts?

Question: Whichever path, I'll need a ratchet and an impact ratchet, correct? I've read impact ratchets are good for removal of stubborn bolts, but not replacement.

Question: I'll need impact-rated sockets, yes?

Question: 3/8th or 1/2-inch?

Thanks guys

[jblackburn]

Pfft, small garage.

Air tools were a MASSIVE help when I changed my front axles - getting the axle nut off with just a breaker bar was a huge pain (yes, you'll need impact sockets). I was lucky to have a friend with tools in town then that was willing to help with my then-"new" car.

[matthew1]

Don't make me laugh. Your garage door goes WAY higher than mine. And clear the junk along the walls and we're al least on equal footing. With that nice flower bush on the right brightening your day every time you pull in or out, I think you're going to lose this argument .

Thanks for the input on the tools.

[Matty Moo]

My vote is for air. Once you have it, you'll wonder why you didn't have it sooner. It makes life so much easier.

Yes, it's noisy...but your initial outlay is for the compressor and that's about it. The tools themselves aren't really that expensive if you look around.

A pancake compressor won't work for tool use, except for an air nailer. I had a 10 gallon for awhile that was barely sufficient for a impact, and I'd get maybe 20 seconds of quality use out of a cutting wheel.

I now have a 21 gallon, which is plenty for light garage use. What I paid for it is what you would pay for just a cordless impact gun. I know some people are anti-Harbor Freight, but that's what I have for a compressor. Mine gets used everyday, sometimes it may go through 20+ cycles a day and I've had no problems at all with it.

Yesterday we did the front struts on my friends TrailBlazer, with the air we did it in about 35 minutes a side and that included swapping the springs. Without the air we would have easily added 20 minutes a side, not to mention never breaking a sweat since we didn't have to wrestle with anything. When I put new struts on my 850 last summer, it only took 40 minutes per side using air. Rusted endlink nuts were no problem.

With the compressor, a 1/2 impact, a 3/8 air ratchet and a 3" cutting wheel I might have $250 total into it. In the time it's saved me it's paid for itself many times over.

[matthew1]

Thanks Matty. So an electric 120v compressor? As opposed to fuel. Man I wished there were 10 people who all said "go electric, forget air!"

It's one of those things where you know it's the right path for the future (air), but you want to hear the easy answer (electric).

What model HF compressor do you have?

[Matty Moo]

I have this one. http://www.harborfreight.com/25-hp-21-g ... 67847.html Gas compressors are big money and loud.


Mine is 120v. I have 220v in the garage but the 120 is fine for me. It has to be plugged directly into the wall, you can't have any voltage drop at all or it won't start. You can compare that to the craftsman model at Sears, and they're essentially identical, just a few components are different. The pump is the same from what I can tell. I added a shut off valve to mine, that was all it was lacking.

I suppose electric tools are okay, but you're looking at a lot of money for each individual tool. Air is just so versatile and the thing with the tools is you're buying the tool, you already own the means to power it.

Mine is loud, but it's all pump noise. I'm going to Ace today to get some things to make an intake silencer for it.

[wheelsup]

Looking at your garage you might want to consider a horizontal air compressor under the workbench at the far end of the garage.

When looking at an air compressor there are several things to consider. CFM is one, however on a 120v unit CFM will generally always be in the 3-5 CFM @ 90 PSI range. Any air tool when loaded runs 10+ CFM so your compressor will never be able to run it continuously, so it comes down to tank size.

There are several types of electric air compressors.

->Oil-less - use a teflon ring and require no mx. Just turn it on and go. VERY loud.
->Oiled, direct drive - combine the electric motor and air pump as one unit. Not nearly as loud but still loud. Kinda a decent in between. The pump uses oil to lubricate.
->Oiled, belt driven - much quieter. Typically the pump is rebuild-able. Better for long term use and run times. Higher CFMs. I have this kind, but it's not necessary. It's 150 psi @ 25 gallon.

Also don't believe any of the HP ratings, especially at Harbor Freight. Doing the math the most you can pull off a 15 amp circuit is about 1.9 to 2.0 HP, and typically the units will build in an extra cushion. There was a lawsuit back in 2003 or something against Sears for misrepresenting their units.

You want one that is of decent size and the highest PSI you can get. I wouldn't settle for anything under 135 but 150 to 200 would be optimal. The higher the pressure the more you can "turn up" you air pressure to get the job done.

Air hoses. Harbor Freight sells (don't forget 20% coupon) Goodyear USA produced 3/8" rubber hoses ($15 on sale). That is the minimum size you should consider, and rubber stays flexible unlike the cheaper PVC garbage. 1/4" is simply too small. For the quick connects, look into Milton Hi-flo or Harbor Freight hi-flo connectors in 1/4" NPT. For an impact the shortest hose you can run is the best. 25' if possible. I run two lines off my compressor, one line goes straight out to run my impact w/ 25' hose the other connects to my 50' hose reel.

Impact gun. This is the only one you should consider, over an name brand tools (smoked my IR 2135qtimax, a $300 impact).

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-profess ... 68424.html

And why I love air tools


That's an inline-5 where i take crank nut off (think timing belt jobs).

There are many different brands of impact sockets out there. If you feel a patriotic twinge Craftsman (not Evolve) sells US made ones. They will be on sale on black friday for $40. 12-27 deep, actually I think it's 12-19, 21, 22, 24, and 27. Only thing you couldn't get done with that is the axle nut which you can "rent" from Advance Auto Parts or buy it. Harbor Freight also sells a set of those for around $40.

If you want an all encompassing set Sunex sells excellent impacts made in Taiwan. Better than anything HF offers. $145 or so for a 10mm-36mm deep set. Look for Chrome Moly not chrome vanadium sockets.

Also might want to cruise Craigslist for a while, you can find some decent stuff. I looked up Denver's CL and found some older American made oiled belt driven compressors.

[wheelsup]

Also if you're still not convinced, the spring compressor used a 3/4" nut and I just used my impact to compress the springs. Made it a 2 min job vs. cranking and cranking and cranking on them with a ratchet. Hand tools are for suckas!!

[matthew1]

Also if you're still not convinced, the spring compressor used a 3/4" nut and I just used my impact to compress the springs. Made it a 2 min job vs. cranking and cranking and cranking on them with a ratchet. Hand tools are for suckas!!

Now you're just rubbing my nose in it. My potential as a hand model went out the window last December when I spent maybe an hour cranking and cranking and bashing and bashing my knuckles on spring compression while working on the upper spring seats on the V70 R. I did them in the wheel wells while attached, then again on the bench.

Notice I'm not responsible for even 5% of the VRD writeups here?

->Oil-less - use a teflon ring and require no mx. Just turn it on and go. VERY loud.
->Oiled, direct drive - combine the electric motor and air pump as one unit. Not nearly as loud but still loud. Kinda a decent in between. The pump uses oil to lubricate.
->Oiled, belt driven - much quieter. Typically the pump is rebuild-able. Better for long term use and run times. Higher CFMs. I have this kind, but it's not necessary. It's 150 psi @ 25 gallon.

Thank you, this is exactly the type of info that'll help me pick the right compressor. I've been reading the weekend warrior and pro mechanic forums and haven't found anything like this simple comparison.

I'll look for Black Friday stuff, maybe shoot for a 20-25 gallon Craftsman as a general ballpark.

I have this one. http://www.harborfreight.com/25-hp-21-g ... 67847.html Gas compressors are big money and loud.
...
You can compare that to the craftsman model at Sears, and they're essentially identical, just a few components are different. The pump is the same from what I can tell. I added a shut off valve to mine, that was all it was lacking.
...
Mine is loud, but it's all pump noise. I'm going to Ace today to get some things to make an intake silencer for it.

Very interesting, thanks. Let us know about the outcome of the intake silencer.

[wheelsup]

I looked at the Sears black friday ads and all the compressors on sale are oil-less. Not a bad choice but personally if you are going that route Harbor Freight does offer some decent ones that are probably the exact same just without "Craftsman" written on them and much less money.

One decent one is this from Northern Tool
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200396622

It sucks you are about 1 month late, Lowes was getting rid of those units (Northern Tool rebuilds returns from Lowes) for under $200 brand new.

For an oil-less with you being low on space, also consider this 15 gal 200 psi dewalt.

Also I'm serious about Craigslist, I found this compressor in good condition just down the street from me for $300, got him down to $220 but I wanted $200 so I backed out.

Deals like that are all over the place, definitely hit Craigslist.

Oh and if you do go with an oiled unit, Lowes sells a synthetic blend compressor oil that I use. You can also use non-detergent 30w oil (ie not motor oil) but I go with synthetic. Make sure you read your manual too, I had to retighten the head bolts on mine after 5 hours of use.

Also, to throw a "wrench" into the research, pumps come in several different makes. Cast iron, aluminum, aluminum head, cast iron cylinders, etc. For example I have an aluminum pump but the cylinder is lined with cast iron (similar to our cars). Typically the heavier duty compressors are cast iron everything. Some are cast iron with an aluminum head. Does it make a difference for the weekend guy? Probably not but that is what you are paying more for.