Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Crotext · Post by **Crotext** » 18 Oct 2011, 17:35

I have everything apart at this point. I have only a short time each day to work on it. I had to
get my longest, sharpest chisel and chip at the two screws holding the thermostat housing until
finally getting them loose. Two # 7 cap screws will replace them.

Now I find the o-rings that came with the hoses will not fit in the housing no matter how I try to
get them in. In the process of fighting with the o-rings, I lost track of which hose goes in which hole.
Looking at the housing front or the hose attaching side, which hose is left or right, inlet or outlet?
Thanks for any help on finding new o-rings that will fit and hose alignment in attaching to thermostat
housing.

Now I am beginning to agree with the above by JelloBMW, "pain in the butt." Unfortunately I can't
afford a $900. shop bill right now.

Post by **Juan62** » 18 Oct 2011, 17:58

Crotext;
part # 3528207 is the UPPER hose on the radiator (routes oil from radiator to back of engine).
Part # 3528201 is the LOWER hose on the radiator.

Post by **holler1** » 18 Oct 2011, 19:15

Crotext wrote:I have everything apart at this point. I have only a short time each day to work on it. I had to
get my longest, sharpest chisel and chip at the two screws holding the thermostat housing until
finally getting them loose. Two # 7 cap screws will replace them.

Now I find the o-rings that came with the hoses will not fit in the housing no matter how I try to
get them in. In the process of fighting with the o-rings, I lost track of which hose goes in which hole.
Looking at the housing front or the hose attaching side, which hose is left or right, inlet or outlet?
Thanks for any help on finding new o-rings that will fit and hose alignment in attaching to thermostat
housing.

Now I am beginning to agree with the above by JelloBMW, "pain in the butt." Unfortunately I can't
afford a $900. shop bill right now.

I think if you line up the two brackets on the metal part of the hoses so the bolt to the engine will go thru both brackets, it will be clear which hose fits which hole in the thermostat. Here's a picture that might help. https://picasaweb.google.com/1133845974 ... 0861573490

As far as O ring size, here is what I measured- 16 mm OD and about 2.5 mm thickness. I recall having to lube the O rings and gently push them into the thermostat around the hose ends. I cut one the first time I did it and had to repeat.

Crotext · Post by **Crotext** » 19 Oct 2011, 03:54

Were the O-rings you used Green like OEM or black furnished with the hoses?

Thanks for the pic. I was lining the brackets up and it did appear that that is the way to
getting it right.

Thanks again.

Post by **holler1** » 19 Oct 2011, 07:01

Crotext wrote:Were the O-rings you used Green like OEM or black furnished with the hoses?

Mine were green. I think they came with the hoses, but I also think I ordered some extra. As mentioned, I ruined at least one. I tried to install the hoses without removing the thermostat - Bad idea.

Thanks for the pic. I was lining the brackets up and it did appear that that is the way to
getting it right.
Thanks again.

Welcome, glad to help.

Crotext · Post by **Crotext** » 22 Nov 2011, 11:58

I am done with that job until I can check for leaks. I am starting another thread on a new issue.

I cut notches on the Thermostat side of the anchor brackets and inserted the screw in the block first,
then slipped the brackets on under a washer. Worked well. I also replaced the two screws on the thermostat
housing with #7 metric from ACE hardware. Using a a heavy flex shank screw driver, all three screws were
easily tightened down. Too bad I can't test for leaks yet.

Post by **alschnertz** » 26 Nov 2011, 19:29

Has anyone tried bypassing the cooler by cutting the lines and replacing with a piece of fuel line? It was mentioned above.
I would think it can be done, but access to cut the hard lines is tough.
I'd be concerned with metal shavings and dirt getting into the lines when cutting.
My car is hemorrhaging from the crimp area of the hoses. Got to get this fixed, the oil leaks are really making a mess of the driveway. The thermostat end is dry and doesn't appear to be leaking.
Trying to save some money by avoiding purchasing new lines.

MatDesign84 · Post by **MatDesign84** » 27 Feb 2012, 07:34

Anyone working on this problem and needing to save some money. This guy Orlando does great work at remanufacturing these lines. I purchased mine from him and they look very well put together and he didnt take any cheap short cuts. Plus he will even buy your old ones back from you that would otherwise go in the trash. auctions.volvospeed.com/DISCOUNT-9498-850VSC70-Turbo-Cooler-Lines--3-Money-Saving-Options,name,100046,item_id,0,ad_type,ad_details

aahmes57 · Post by **aahmes57** » 28 Feb 2012, 11:01

SEARCH oil cooler line replacement
Feb 6, 2011 ... I have both oil cooler lines leaking at the metal fitting going into cooler. Has anyone found a kit available with all the O rings,

I THINK IT IS EASIEST TO CONNECT BOTH ENDS AND THEN PUT THE BOLT IN FOR THE BRACKETS

1240 · Post by **1240** » 28 Feb 2012, 17:24

KLS wrote:Thanks for the info.

I think I'll consider using 1/2" I.D. hydraulic hose. I'll reuse the steel ends, strip off the crimp fittings, and put the new hose on with the usual screw clams...or have a local hydraulic hose shop crimp new fittings on. As long as the hose is suitable for oil at the pressure and temperature, it'll work find. Pressure isn't a problem. The temperature rating can be 250°F or 275° or something similar.

The oil filter can be removed without draining the oil. I may take it off if it gives more room.

This is an old thread, but I am new to this forum. I think a little precaution to prevent the assembly from coming apart would be a good idea. If the hose comes off the pipe you will lose oil quickly. Conceder putting a flair on the end of the steel line. The flair would prevent clamp and the hose from sliding off the end of the pipe.

Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement