DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Front Bilstein TC Strut Tips/Tricks Topic is solved

[NickthatOneKid]

Amazing ! im going to be attempting to do the same as a novice of course I have a topic on here aswell and thanks for the time you placed in the topic its very well versed !

Nick

[vjaneczko]

Amazing ! im going to be attempting to do the same as a novice of course

I hadn't touched suspension before so I took my time, but CN90's write-ups were my instruction manual for the whole thing. Take your time, make sure you torque everything correctly, and you'll be proud of a job well done in no time.

[wheelsup]

Wanted to add my notes and pics as when I did it I was a bit lost a few times but got through it.

I was working on a 95 850 NA. Ordered from FCP all OEM. I thought about going aftermarket but thought better of it, it was about a $120 savings. Not that much over 100k miles.

If you have an air compressor it makes it SOOOOOOOO much quicker and easier. I had the struts out in about 15 mins. The end link was nothing - 16mm wrench on the back and a 15mm socket on the front zippppp it's off. Same with the strut mount bolts. 17mm wrench and 18mm socket (or vise versa) bam right out. I would highly recommend getting a compressor and impact if you are going to attempt this repair (good excuse to buy one). Makes taking the strut mount bolt off easy as pie as well.

1) Special star nut. I couldn't figure out how guys were using a pipe wrench to get it off. I used a large adjustable wrench to hold the strut and a pair of vice grips to grip it. With a little muscle it popped right off. Same to re-assemble.

Special washer volvo 850 strut

special nut.JPG (162.53 KiB) Viewed 4871 times

2) The bumper (new) to assemble I used a new rubber bumper. Had to pry the tabs on. Not a big deal but just didn't know how it was done as the old one was basically dust.

bumper.JPG (190.76 KiB) Viewed 4871 times

3) Dust cover just fits up in the bumper.

cover.JPG (111.71 KiB) Viewed 4871 times

4) Strut bolt, 22mm (IIRC) goes right off and right on with a quick burp of an impact. I set it on #2 3. Probably slightly over torqued BUT doesn't torque down on the strut at all because it's just snugging up against the special star nut. This is what mechanics do. I don't know how you'd hold the strut from spinning while torquing it down doing it manually. *FYI* This was a photo op picture and the special washer is not in place, it must be placed over the special star nut before torquing the top strut nut down.

strut bolt.JPG (132.24 KiB) Viewed 4871 times

5) No pics (sorry) but the sway bar needs to be pried down with a large pry bar to get the end link bolts to come through the strut straight on. I used my largest one I think it's a 31". Not a big deal but again unsure of how you'd line them up without a pry bar. With my 31" it was effortless. For a good pry bar set consider these for under $50. They are made in the USA by Mayhew who makes the (rebranded) Snap-On ones as well but for $195.

[hrrhwdfh1]

Great information and pics. I have a 97 850, i ma sure the process is the same.

[vjaneczko]

Great information and pics. I have a 97 850, i ma sure the process is the same.

Yup, it is. I used this for mine and I'd never worked on the suspension before this. If you've never worked on the suspension, it's much eaiser than you'd think.

[TRuck]

Replaced front struts and rear shocks about a week ago(using this post and the links), & I have a couple of probably stupid-newbie-type questions:

1) How "floppy" should the rotors be once the struts are out? The driver's side seemed much more floppy than my passenger side....and even more so than this little clip shows.
[YouTube][/YouTube]

2) With both sides front of car up on jackstands I can rotate the wheel and the opposite wheel rotates in the opposite direction. This is with it in park. How it should be?

3) When breaking the front lugs before jacking up the car (car is on ground)....the wheels will rotate almost a quarter rotation. Car is in park with parking break on. How it should be?

4) There is a "bobble-type" rattle when I am driving slowing on bumpy terrain. I triple checked that it is all torqued down as it should be. My girlfriend says it has always been there, and just didn't hear it....but what could it be?

I may take a 6 hour trip (each way) at end of month, and would rather not have the front end collapse...should I be worried?


My reflections on replacing struts and shocks:
Thanks for this post and the links. I have always been intimidated by suspension stuff, and never touched it before. However, it was much much easier than I thought it would be. 6-7 hours for all.

I do not have an impact wrench, but was very lucky with all my bolts coming out. Because of the warnings on this post I PB blasted and cleaned threads the day before. Then again as I "went in" the day of. First strut was out in 15 min!
I was able to use the torx part of the sway bar connecting bolt to undo it, but did break my torx bit when tightening it back down.
Stupidly, one of the biggest time consumers for me was working with the spring compressors. I had them on correctly, but found they have to go to the absolute farthest possible ends of the spring to compress it enough to get the cross bolt off. Took me 4 tries on the first spring (45min). The second spring was off in 5min. I used the AutoZone "borrower".

The rear shock-mount-bolts took a solid 45 min or more...I would have broken them had I not heeded the warnings here. Thanks! I WAS able to spray them with WD40 from under the car somewhat & I think this really helped. Used hammer on sockett handle and breaker pipe on sockett handle to break bottom 18mm nuts. Deep well 18 mm would have worked better than my standard depth socket. FYI...the little to no jacking method on the back shocks worked very well.

Thanks again for the posts and info! Very satisfiying to do this myself.
T

[vjaneczko]

Replaced front struts and rear shocks about a week ago(using this post and the links), & I have a couple of probably stupid-newbie-type questions:

1) How "floppy" should the rotors be once the struts are out? The driver's side seemed much more floppy than my passenger side....and even more so than this little clip shows.
[YouTube][/YouTube]

The struts are what keep it in place, so when they're removed that movement is expected.

2) With both sides front of car up on jackstands I can rotate the wheel and the opposite wheel rotates in the opposite direction. This is with it in park. How it should be?

That is expected, too.

3) When breaking the front lugs before jacking up the car (car is on ground)....the wheels will rotate almost a quarter rotation. Car is in park with parking break on. How it should be?

Wheels move 90 degrees? That doesn't seem right. If the car was in neutral, I'd say your e-brake needs attention, but with it in Park, the trannie may need attention, too.

4) There is a "bobble-type" rattle when I am driving slowing on bumpy terrain. I triple checked that it is all torqued down as it should be. My girlfriend says it has always been there, and just didn't hear it....but what could it be?

I may take a 6 hour trip (each way) at end of month, and would rather not have the front end collapse...should I be worried?

Where's the sound coming from? Might be related to the steering or engine mounts or something else if you replaced everything related to the suspension. You may have to start grabbing parts and shaking them to listen for a sound...

[TRuck]

Thanks vjaneczko.

Wheels move 90 degrees? That doesn't seem right. If the car was in neutral, I'd say your e-brake needs attention, but with it in Park, the trannie may need attention, too.

perhaps 90 degrees is a bit much....say...from 12 to 1:30-2 o'clock with ebrake on and in park. E-brake works, but yes, perhaps needs attention.

Where's the sound coming from? Might be related to the steering or engine mounts or something else if you replaced everything related to the suspension. You may have to start grabbing parts and shaking them to listen for a sound...

sound is mostly from front passenger side...would place it right about where strut/wheel well is.
I have only replaced outer tie rods along with the struts/strut mounts/strut seat.
engine mounts definitely need to be replaced...i will try to rattle things around in there by hand and see if i find something.
engine mounts did cross my mind ....they could make such a sound?
appreciate it!
T

[TRuck]

noise was the star nut on the struts....did not have it tightened enough. Removed 22mm then tighetened the star nut. amazing the difference 3/4" makes. Cheers!
T

[newuser909]

Guys, two questions on this install with Bilstein TCs. Does the star nut install star part down or up? How far does the 22mm locking nut that comes on new Bilstein strut need to be screwed down? I'm finding it really hard to tighten it more than a turn or two with an allen wrench inserted to keep the shaft from spinning. Any tips?

Anyone have a finished picture with all the parts installed on a new Bilstein strut?

thanks.