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Oil level problems

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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robert213
Posts: 153
Joined: 19 August 2005
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Location: Indianapolis, IN
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Post by robert213 »

wllewis wrote:I completed the compression test tonight. My results are as follows:
1 - 175
2 - 165
3 - 175
4 - 180
5 - 175
One thing I should add is that I did it cold and dry. Would normal operating temp. increase or decrease the pressure readings? I would think they would increase the value which means I'm likely in the clear. Any thoughts?


I would perform two tests. The first dry. The second wet -- after squirting a little oil in each cylinder. If the readings go higher, then you have some minor wear on the rings. Those numbers look good. Cylinder 2 may have a slight problem with lifters. Also, be consistent with your procedures as you move from cylinder to cylinder -- all spark plugs removed, wide-open-throttle.
wllewis wrote: The engine was not at operating temperature primarily because I hadn't emptied the engine oil yet and didn't want to have it circulating dirty oil through the engine in case there could be some shavings in the oil.
Glad to hear that you are changing the oil soon. Remove the old oil filter and cut it open with either dremel or tin snips. Take a magnet along the folds and check for shavings. I really doubt that you will find any shavings.

I am concerned about your low oil pressure light. Does the light come on when you place your key in the ignition? How soon does the light go off after the engine is started -- especially after an oil change?

I would temporarily install a mechanical pressure gauge to verify that oil pump is putting out proper pressure -- not too low, could be way too high with stuck relief valve.

I would probably replace oil pressure sending unit, just for piece of mind.

wllewis wrote: My spark plugs didn't show any drastic signs of fouling. They were basically showed normal wear and maybe a very slight amount of dry fouling, but certainly not any signs of wet fouling. They did have a heavy gas odor to them that I don't remember being there when I've changed plugs in other vehicles in the past. If I am running rich, how would I be able to adjust the fuel/air ratio? Thanks for the help.
You cannot adjust air/fuel mixture -- it is controlled by ECU. Check diag trouble codes, even without check engine light. Possible problems with Slow Lazy Front O2 sensor or bad Air Flow Meter. Verify that previous owner didn't install wrong size injectors -- too large equals too rich.

wllewis
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Joined: 23 December 2003
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Post by wllewis »

Compression test results:
1 - dry 175, wet 175
2 - dry 165, wet 165
3 - dry 175, wet 170 (not sure why it went down)
4 - dry 180, wet 180
5 - dry 175, wet 180

The oil pressure warning light does illuminate with all of the other warning lights when the ingnition is "ON", but car is not started. It goes off immediately with all of the other lights. I've never seen it come on after an oil change, but I typically get the oil changed at the dealership and am not the first person to start the car after an oil change.

When I got under the car today I did notice some oil around the turbo. I think I'll try to replace the oil return gasket this week some time. Any other thought on where all this oil might have gone?

rp850
Posts: 67
Joined: 23 March 2005
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Post by rp850 »

Those numbers seem pretty good to me.

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