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... this thing is always going to leak ..MVSUCCESS !!

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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JDS60R
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Re: I'm just going to accept this thing is always going to l

Post by JDS60R »

If that doesn't work I would suspect they gouged the cam cover or head from the oil line that feeds the cams to that bolt.
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jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

You can kind of see it from that picture...it looks like it's only coming from there and leaking down (not from under the valve cover like a leaky oil cap seal or PCV hose would do). It's not leaking from the seal itself in between the top of the valve cover and the rest of the head like if they had gouged it.

If there's a line that feeds into it though, which I hadn't noticed, it makes sense that it only leaks when it gets under a lot of pressure [from high RPM]. I just don't want it to do that. It smells kinda like when you blow out a citronella candle - just that awful, oily smell. Yuck.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

JDS60R
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Post by JDS60R »

I was suggesting that the cam cover to head surfaces (the ones you can't see when assembled were gouged feeding direct pressure from the oil line to that bolt but not reaching the rear of the head so you would see it leak from the seam. I agree it looks like it is coming from that bolt and not from the seal at the edge of the cam cover and head.

I completely agree with you and am disappointed at the guy who did it.
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JDS60R
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Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
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Post by JDS60R »

This is what yours will look like (plus a turbo) when you get it back from me. These are pics of the 95 850 NA wagon I just restored. It was covered in oil for 5 years when I got it. All rubber was damaged by the leaks.

Here it is on the last day of the rebuild.
Attachments
95 850 NA 1.JPG
95 850 NA 2.JPG
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Epicsurf
Posts: 57
Joined: 1 March 2010
Year and Model: 850 T 1996
Location:

Post by Epicsurf »

Well the cork appears to be working. Although I did notice that it worked its way up a bit. I'll have to come up with a more permanent solution. My lungs and the planet thank you. I will also look at my PCV system again to make sure it is working.

turbozutek
Posts: 156
Joined: 14 April 2011
Year and Model: 1995 850 GLE
Location: Glasgow

Post by turbozutek »

Epicsurf wrote:Well the cork appears to be working. Although I did notice that it worked its way up a bit. I'll have to come up with a more permanent solution. My lungs and the planet thank you.
Ah good news!

In terms of holding it down, by the looks of it a piece of scrap steel cut into the shape of a mickey-mouse head should do it. Drill holes through the 'ears' and screw it down nicely through those two screw holes which are doing nothing there.

Image

There again, if you get a wedge of cork tall enough, the spark plug lead cover might be enough to press it down and keep a decent seal going.

Chris...

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Image

I think that about sums up my experience.

In short, it's fixed. JD's washer trick and coating them with the silicone worked under the bolt. After that, I pulled off the spark plug cover to find oil everywhere there too that was also leaking down.

The stupid PCV hose (the only one I didn't replace this time because I THOUGHT it was still fine and in good shape) was blowing oil all over. I've fought with this thing 23489724987243987 times before and thought I finally had it on right after supergluing the end that goes up on top of the head back onto it.

Every time I'd tighten it down (the clamp is really difficult to get to), it'd pop back off. Part of the hose is squished down from it being a cheap URO one, and so I had to position the clamp below that and then tighten it down. I think I finally got it - after almost 2 hours of fighting with it, going for a test drive, and having it blow off again. I can tug on it pretty hard and it's not moving this time, so I went and hit the gas hard a few times and it's not blowing oil.

About time too. It's cold outside and I'm grumpy.

Problem solved. I hope.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

precopster
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Post by precopster »

Hope you got it right Justin, it seems as soon as one leak is fixed another begins with these things so in my book nothing short of a full strip down and rebuild will suffice.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

turbozutek
Posts: 156
Joined: 14 April 2011
Year and Model: 1995 850 GLE
Location: Glasgow

Post by turbozutek »

Yeah that hose you are talking about, the metal part it goes onto just isn't flared enough for a good seal at all times. Volvo, it's in an area with high pressure and oil on rubber: wtf were you thinking!?

Chris...

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Too good to be true. The hose and screw are not leaking at all. So this decided to now.

They (the mechanics) look like they put some silicone junk in there to clog it up. It's kinda clearish as opposed to my grey stuff. Any idea what that is?

Not sure if it's leaking or I just didn't clean that up last night - I was working by flashlight. I'll clean it up tonight and see if it reappears.

However, no oil smell sitting at stoplights!!!
Attachments
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1324402872.992535.jpg
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

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