Is the oil cap seal leaking?
Or did it all come from the plug. I saw some oil in the photo in the upper right corner past a raised area in the cam cover. I was wondering if the oil can flow to there from the plug or if it had to be coming from the oil cap seal.
... this thing is always going to leak ..MVSUCCESS !!
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jblackburn
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The oil cap seal is 2 months old and not leaking at this time. Most of the other oil is where I haven't spent much time cleaning it up real well since it kept leaking out again so there was no point Up higher, that PCV hose was spraying everywhere into every nook and cranny around it. The plug can apparently leak to the entire downhill slope behind it.
Once I'm sure it's done, I'll scrape off the mess I made with the JB weld and wash the top of the engine and turbo/exhaust manifold at a car wash. Just need to remember to cover the distributor this time so it doesn't misfire for 2 minutes
Once I'm sure it's done, I'll scrape off the mess I made with the JB weld and wash the top of the engine and turbo/exhaust manifold at a car wash. Just need to remember to cover the distributor this time so it doesn't misfire for 2 minutes
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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JDS60R
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JB weld looks fine. I would just leave it.
If you have to remove it then see if oil was under the unwanted glob and if it will pop off. If not, move any rubber (wires ,hoses etc at least 3 inches away and get your propane torch. JB weld will turn to dust at 600 degrees. Put a drop on the exhaust and you can see what i mean (when it stops smoking.
The way it looks now I would just leave it.
If you have to remove it then see if oil was under the unwanted glob and if it will pop off. If not, move any rubber (wires ,hoses etc at least 3 inches away and get your propane torch. JB weld will turn to dust at 600 degrees. Put a drop on the exhaust and you can see what i mean (when it stops smoking.
The way it looks now I would just leave it.
Retired
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
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Man, that thing is stubborn. There's oil all over again - from that hole. I thought it looked like a good seal, but I guess not. Think it would be better to use the high strength JB weld and let it set up tomorrow?
EDIT: I didn't sandpaper it but I did clean with acetone. The previous plug all came out in one solid piece and I scraped the walls to get the rest off with a knife edge.
How's the cork working out?
EDIT: I didn't sandpaper it but I did clean with acetone. The previous plug all came out in one solid piece and I scraped the walls to get the rest off with a knife edge.
How's the cork working out?
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
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- Joined: 21 February 2009
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I thing the kwik would be fine.
I am confused -did you take the plug out when you got home today or before you put the JB on?
I would hit everything with acetone again and then sand. The clean up with acetone and re apply the kwik.
Let me know how it turns out?
I am confused -did you take the plug out when you got home today or before you put the JB on?
I would hit everything with acetone again and then sand. The clean up with acetone and re apply the kwik.
Let me know how it turns out?
Retired
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
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I pulled out the silicone plug before putting in the JB weld. Cleaned with acetone, and squirted in both tubes and mixed it.
My dad seemed to think that 300 deg. (I think he was thinking maybe exhaust manifold temps) wasn't enough, but that head shouldn't get much more hot than 212 degrees, right?
I'll try again tomorrow. It's not leaking AS badly, but still leaking from there and has filled the hole with oil. I poked at it a bit, but I can't really tell exactly where the leak is.
My dad seemed to think that 300 deg. (I think he was thinking maybe exhaust manifold temps) wasn't enough, but that head shouldn't get much more hot than 212 degrees, right?
I'll try again tomorrow. It's not leaking AS badly, but still leaking from there and has filled the hole with oil. I poked at it a bit, but I can't really tell exactly where the leak is.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
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- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
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The plug that should be in there should be made of metal. If you pulled off the silicone they gooped on the metal pug the I understand. If it really is a silicone plug in there instead of metal we should fit a metal plug.
Your Dad is smart. Exhaust temps run 1400-1900 degrees. That area in the center of the head runs about 250 degrees or cooler on average. It will be roughly the same temp as your oil.
Are you sure you have spotted the leak coming from the plug instead of another troubled bolt allowing oil to pass?
Your Dad is smart. Exhaust temps run 1400-1900 degrees. That area in the center of the head runs about 250 degrees or cooler on average. It will be roughly the same temp as your oil.
Are you sure you have spotted the leak coming from the plug instead of another troubled bolt allowing oil to pass?
Retired
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
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- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
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I'm not sure if there's a plug even down in there. There's an open hole that goes down to a little port that looks like it goes to the inside of the block. I was under the impression that it's (supposed) to be blocked off with some kind of sealant from INSIDE the valve cover.
The silicone all came out as a solid piece shaped like a "plug". That's what I was referring to.
Definitely leaking from the plug hole. Like, barely around the edge of these seals or something. I'll pick up some sandpaper tomorrow and try that.
The silicone all came out as a solid piece shaped like a "plug". That's what I was referring to.
Definitely leaking from the plug hole. Like, barely around the edge of these seals or something. I'll pick up some sandpaper tomorrow and try that.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
Oh - I understand now.
The hole should have a metal plug in it and you should not be able to see the inside of the engine. Knowing that you have it mostly filled now with the JB and no adverse effect of jb dripping in then its ok to procede. Clean the area first with acetone so the sandpaper doesn't load up. Make sure to sand the JB thats in there currently as well as the surrounding area. Mix the JB on a piece of cardboard before putting it on the new clean area.(back of the cardboard it came on is always nice). Once fully mixed in a 1 to 1 ratio you should apply it to cover the old JB (now sanded so the new JB can bite into it)and flow over the edges of where the plug goes in. It should spill over 360 degrees of that area. Pull the spark plug wire if you want to keep any stray jb from getting to it.
Let it dry overnight before running the engine. If you want to put the spark plug wire back in but don't want the JB to get to it then coat it in Vaseline or Silicone grease. The JB will not stick
Mixing it before putting it on is very important. Cleaning up, after sanding, with acetone will allow it to bond to the head. Wipe the area down with acetone soaked paper towels a few times (go though a few towels) until you are sure the area has no oil on it. Then apply the new layer of JB.
You will get it this time.
The hole should have a metal plug in it and you should not be able to see the inside of the engine. Knowing that you have it mostly filled now with the JB and no adverse effect of jb dripping in then its ok to procede. Clean the area first with acetone so the sandpaper doesn't load up. Make sure to sand the JB thats in there currently as well as the surrounding area. Mix the JB on a piece of cardboard before putting it on the new clean area.(back of the cardboard it came on is always nice). Once fully mixed in a 1 to 1 ratio you should apply it to cover the old JB (now sanded so the new JB can bite into it)and flow over the edges of where the plug goes in. It should spill over 360 degrees of that area. Pull the spark plug wire if you want to keep any stray jb from getting to it.
Let it dry overnight before running the engine. If you want to put the spark plug wire back in but don't want the JB to get to it then coat it in Vaseline or Silicone grease. The JB will not stick
Mixing it before putting it on is very important. Cleaning up, after sanding, with acetone will allow it to bond to the head. Wipe the area down with acetone soaked paper towels a few times (go though a few towels) until you are sure the area has no oil on it. Then apply the new layer of JB.
You will get it this time.
Retired
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