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S60 Low Oil Pressure warning light

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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precopster
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Joined: 21 August 2010
Year and Model: Lots
Location: Melbourne Australia
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Re: S60 Low Oil Pressure warning light

Post by precopster »

The oil pump itself is not VERY hard to remove, just a little awkward where it's located. You'll need a good torx set for the three front bolts and a GOOD 4mm allen preferably with a socket adaptor to dismantle the rear screws which reveal the relief spring. Also you may want to have the crank nut broken by a garage or use the starter against a long breaker bar to crack it.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

alanjackson2011
Posts: 40
Joined: 29 August 2011
Year and Model: V70T 2001
Location: uk

Post by alanjackson2011 »

Thanks for the reply, It is the cam timing that I am a little worried about - and the cost of a new pump, over £200

I seem to be throwing as lot of money at this car.

Volvo dealer does not know what it is but want to take the head off

I may have one last try, Thanks again, Alan

alanjackson2011
Posts: 40
Joined: 29 August 2011
Year and Model: V70T 2001
Location: uk

Post by alanjackson2011 »

One thing I did notice with the oil pan O-rings is that the seals on the pipe from the oil filter housing to the oil cooler (in the sump) did not seem correct, I asked about this at the Volvo dealer wher I bought the kit but the part numbers were correct.

The recess for the oil seal in the sump where it exits to the oil cooler was MUCH bigger than the outer diameter of the seal which is not an O-ring, it's a bit like a "Hula Hoop"

The one that came out also has a smaller O/D than the recess, but was longer than the new ones supplied by Volvo.

precopster
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Post by precopster »

Can't advise you on those seals as I don't have experience with sump mounted the oil coolers. You won't have to touch the VVT, just mark the cam belt and place it back exactly on the same markings on crank and cam sprockets.

The failure rate of oil pumps is very low on these motors. In any case I wouldn't have a new one on hand if I were you, just buy a oil pump seal kit (crank seal is extra) and have the internals checked. There may be lots of sludge and buildup. Also you may want to order a new relief spring. Who knows, for the cost of a relief spring and seal kit your troubles may be over. :)
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

alanjackson2011
Posts: 40
Joined: 29 August 2011
Year and Model: V70T 2001
Location: uk

Post by alanjackson2011 »

Thanks Precopster, I will have one last go.

There was an oil pump seal repaced 15,000 ago when it was blowing oil which was traced to blocked breathers

It looks as though the was OK until quite recently when it was unused for a few months and then gave low oil pressure messages, BUT I got it after it had been unused, and the fella I got it from seems genuine enough and insists he never had oil pressure problems.

Before it was driven after standing the air-con compressor was replace, so I don't know if anything could have been disturbed then.

The engine does seen to get very hot compared with my wife’s non-turbo V70.

Having said that, it will idle for an hour with no oil warning messages, but as soon as I drive it a little way the message appears.

precopster
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Post by precopster »

Make sure the oil pump seal kit is genuine. FCP sold me two of them with O ring seals that stretched way over the diameter of the housing; their response: " never had any problems before"

Interestingly the last time I ordered a non-genuine one from FCP a genuine one arrived in its place that fitted perfectly :wink:
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

alanjackson2011
Posts: 40
Joined: 29 August 2011
Year and Model: V70T 2001
Location: uk

Post by alanjackson2011 »

Hello again, if these seals fail do they cause low oil pressure?

I was assuming they just stopped oil leaking to the outside world, but they can cause loss of pressure can they?

IngusV70
Posts: 1
Joined: 30 December 2011
Year and Model: V70 II 2.4T 2000y.m.
Location: Ireland

Post by IngusV70 »

Hi Peoples!
Very sad story about V70II 2.4T... was same problem with oil pressure 4 months ago. Replace oil pump,all seals and o-rings, crankcase breather filter new, all braether pipes cleaned... All by the best standarts,lika VOLVO likes :D
Last week, 80miles per hr. on motorway, (cruise control) oil pressure light came on, i pull over but too late!!!
Knocking noise from bottom (rod bearings) recovery to my garage :cry: ... Yesterday put new rod bearings,clean all lubrication system (twice)... and?!?!? What you think??? Engine was good for a 25 miles!!! Fu****g crankshaft is gone!!! It's very common problem with 5cyl. volvo engines... Do not waste your time and money with (trying) "oil pressure"... if it's happens with you once, it will come back...soon or late,but will!!!
Best off luck lads,i give up, no more Volvo's in my garage...

hits22
Posts: 1
Joined: 3 January 2016
Year and Model: 2005 v50
Location: U.S.

Post by hits22 »

Intermittent low oil pressure light. Idle light stays off. Accelerate light flashes a few times then stays on. Oil pressure around 20psi at idle. Rev to 4000 while in park and pressure drops to 8psi. No point swapping out oil switch. Warned about engine life may be at point of no return but going in for the oil pump now. Will be checking colder as well for clog. But doubt it.

Eric415
Posts: 1
Joined: 13 May 2016
Year and Model: 04 xc70
Location: California

Post by Eric415 »

I had the same problem with a xc70 2.5t that was driven 80k without a oil change :o and was setting codes for vvt. The engine was heavily sludged and after warming oil pressure was low and dropped to 0 at high rpm. Resealing the oil pan made no difference. After not finding any restrictions in the vvt solenoid so decided to change the oil pump. After removing the timing belt and pulling the cam sprocket the pump came out. The pump itself seemed fine but the paper gasket showed signs of oil leaking between the pressure and suction ports. I replaced the pump and gasket, torqued to spec and changed the water pump and t-belt while I was in there. After the repair a oil pressure gauge read 30-50 psi and the vvt faults stopped setting a engine light when hot. Hope this helps, good luck. :lol:

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