I spent over $3K on suspension work/RF wheel still knocks

Post by **98T5** » 17 Jan 2012, 08:22

1998 Volvo V70 T5 Turbo
Texas

I spent well over $3k on suspension work in November 2011 and I still get this "knock' from the RF wheel area. The mechanic, who is not my main guy, did the work. My main guy told me that the newer guy(who actually works at another location, just new to this location) was the best Volvo guy in the city. and by his looks (older) I took his word for it. and now I'm pissed. From day one when I got the car back, the RF wheel area had this binding "knock" sound that I assumed was the springs seating themselves. From braking, to turning, to hitting every bump in the road it knocks. And since then, the knock is still there to this day in 2012. I took it back the next day after the work was completed and the volvo mechanic looked at it and claimed he didn't know where the source of the "knock" was coming from, THEN he switched up and claimed it could be my calipers acting up. By now I'm bit more pissed, because I already spent over $3K a week prior on parts and labor AND was told my car was ready to go when I came and got it. I have since contacted the Manager of the shop to put her in the loop of what has been going on since November and that I'm not spending another dime on parts and repairs because I feel my car was not fixed to completion as I was told the day I picked it up. Fortunately, she understood my concerns and told me she would have the car fixed, just bring it back in.

OK, having explained my issue, can anybody tell me what that binding "knock' sound is coming from because apparently the mechanic doesn't know since he tried to get my car back up on the rack for more charges.

Here's the $3K plus I spent on parts and labor:

ALL motor mounts under the bottom
Thrust mount bushings on top of engine (both)
New Springs all around (H&R)
Spring seats, washers and bearings
Rear shocks
Sway Bar
RF axle (complete kit)
RF wheel hub
plus Labor and taxes

Any info is appreciated.

anmartin44 · Post by **anmartin44** » 17 Jan 2012, 12:16

Did you do the anti sway bar bushings? Sounds like swaybar endlinks. What parts did you use? OEM or aftermarket? Aftermarket rubber for these cars does not have a good reputation for longevity. did you get new struts? you didn't mention that.

Post by **E Showell** » 17 Jan 2012, 16:38

This is a little on the crazy side, but if you don't grease the bump stops (those little white plastic pads on the back side of the control arm) on the lower control arms you can get a knocking sound at full lock on the steering rack (but it should only happen at full lock) -- bump stops greased?

Post by **tjts1** » 17 Jan 2012, 16:48

Did they replace the strut mounts? Thats the most likely source.

Post by **wheelsup** » 18 Jan 2012, 11:14

I had a horrible clunking sound in my front end up by the strut tower area, and also the LF end link, but they were separate issues.

I replaced:

Strut mounts (3)
Sring Seats (5)
Bump stop (7)
Dust boot (9)
Strut (10)
Sway bar end links (one of mine was bad, but I did both) (11)

Parts, OEM Sachs except for the Meyele HD sway bars, was around $400-$450 give or take IIRC. This fixed my clunking in the front end. I wouldn't replace the shocks as they are pretty much a lifetime thing, they don't tend to wear out unless they rust away.

I think, but just a guess, 85% of the clunking in the front ends are due to worn spring seats (5) and bad sway bar end links (11).

Post by **wheelsup** » 18 Jan 2012, 11:20

Also, if they did replace the sway bar end links, it's possible they broke the unit by turning just the nut on the outside without holding it from behind. I did this when removing it and that is how I broke mine. That would make it clunk.

Jorobles0 · Post by **Jorobles0** » 18 Jan 2012, 20:13

Something else to think about; are you sure the noise is coming from the wheel area, have you had someone drive with you to help ID the noise? The window track on my 850 is broken and it occasionally rattles similar to a suspension clunk. Also, I had a clunk for a few days on the driver's that drove me nuts. This too sounded like a suspension clunking noise only to discover it was the seat belt buckle bouncing off of the pilar. I had a good laugh. After spending so much $ hopefully you discover your problem soon.

voodoorobaz · Post by **voodoorobaz** » 19 Jan 2012, 11:07

I would also lean towards the sway bar end link as I had the same problem. I checked everything but the sway bar end link because it looked just fine. After not coming to any solid conclusion I removed the sway bar end link and took it on a test drive, Knocking sound was gone so I came home and ordered a set. Problem solved. It's an easy check and I was able to get to mine without taking the tire off but it is an Arizona car without any rust on fasteners. Good luck on the diagnosis.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 19 Jan 2012, 14:21

Add another vote for the sway bar end link and it may not even need to be replaced. The end links tend to bind as you torque them down. The torque wrench will tell you they are good and tight when they really aren't.

...Lee

Post by **wheelsup** » 19 Jan 2012, 15:12

I know when I torqued down my end links, I had to use a long prybar to push down on the sway bar itself to get it in position. Seemed to take the pressure off of my end link bolts so you can tighten without loading them up. Not sure if that is the correct way but that looked like the logical way to go for me.