which engine oil for both 1997-850 NA and 2001-V70XC

[xHeart]

As for the conventional oil costing half as much... that isn't much of a saving if you have to change it at least twice as often.

What? please elaborate bit more. Does it mean fewer oil filters, time, and grief?

[jblackburn]

Yes...while synthetic will run you about $35 + an oil filter per oil change, you can change it every 5000-8000 miles (vs the 4000-5000 I'd stick to with a conventional oil). Some say you can do more, but I changed mine after about 8000 yesterday (Mobil-1 synthetic) and some funny blobs of gloop came out with it in the pan. I'm going to stick to my 5-6000 interval from now on.

[MoVolvos]

Putting the Simple Back into Viscosity - Bob Is The Oil Guy - Lower Viscosity is for Mileage (Please Read Post)
Excerpt: "I'm not against lower viscosity fluids (I use 0W20 in my Prius), but it should be understood why we use them. I'm against the B.S. (He could have chosen another word) showing up in many BITOG threads that lower viscosity is to decrease wear."
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=2506823

I spoke with a Vette guy years ago and he told me the reason for the Lower Viscosity were so they can pass EPA Regulated Ratings!!! Most of us do not live in an area below freezing year round so the synthetic can help with the slightly quicker flow but the Turbo Suffers in the long run

Link: Putting the Simple Back into Viscosity
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=2506823

Exerpt from above link:

Conclusion:

Lubricant viscosity or consistency is a physical measurement of a lubricant’s internal resistance to flow. It can truly affect how the lubricant will function in a piece of equipment. Fortunately, organizations like ASTM, SAE, AGMA, ISO and others have created standards for lubricant viscosity and consistency that are to be used as guidelines when selecting the proper lubricant. If the wrong lubricant viscosity is selected for an application, the chances for equipment failure are dramatically increased. Therefore, the best rule is to always check the original equipment manufacturer’s manual for lubricant viscosity recommendations.

If the OEM makes no recommendations, then the next step is to consider the operating speed, temperature and load of the application to be lubricated. Finally, after making a lubricating product selection, it is important to 11 © 2011 Lubrication Engineers, Inc. closely monitor the equipment to ensure the right choice was made. If possible, visually observe the moving parts to verify that a sufficient lubricant film is present to protect them. If not, listen for any unusual load grinding, chattering or squalling noises, which often are indications of metal-to-metal contact. Finally, one last technique is to contact lubricant manufacturers for recommendations. They often can provide technical support for proper fluid or grease selection.

Very simplistically, viscosity is a measure of a physical resistance to flow, yet it is probably the most important property of a lubricant.

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I use to use Mobil One till I realized it was the cause of 4 headgasket leaks as it was high in detergent. 87 Integra, 88 Camry, 93 E320, 99 Galant. The inside of my Managers Mustang with 150,00 had absolutely not one spec of dark spot when you looked inside the oil filler cap. It is OK perhaps to use it from the time the car was new but older cars was a huge problem. BMW started using special TWS oil perhaps due to the earlier problems. The Local Honda/Performance Car Tuner also wondered if that is why they changed over after I told him about my experience.

BMW / Castrol 10W60 TWS Synthetic Oil - E46 M3, E39 M5, E60 M5, E9X M3
"also suitable for the ZF transmission in the C4 Corvette ZR-1 (takes 3 liters)"
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1034- ... 9x-m3.aspx

Swepo 714 30W Transmission oil is suitable for high performance engine oil also. They have always been way ahead of the curve.
Swepco on Synthetics
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/tt899.htm

I have always used the 15-40W in CA year round and on super cold mornings (if there is such a thing as Super Cold in CA) the lifters are quieter compare to regular oil. Yes, I do use regular oil at times as I have to buy 24qt (case) at a time. With only one car at times and once a year oil changes it is a lot of oil sitting around.

Blessings,

BKM
-

The motor oil is just as good as it's Transmission Oils

[erikv11]

You have ruined the head gasket on four cars?

If so, I think there is almost no chance it is due to Mobil 1. There are many people who run only Mobil 1, on all their cars, and have zero blown head gasket issues.

[boosted5cyl]

Remember multigrade oils have two viscosites specified. Put simply they have one for "cold" and one for "warm". The cold viscosity is the one you see with a "W" after it. Choose your oil viscosity based on the climate it is going to be used in.

5w30 is the "norm". You can use 0w30 if you have cold winters as it will help get flow up to the top end when it is really cold, your motor will like you for it. In summer you could swap to 10w30 if you wish. Unless you are running in extreme ambient temps, racing or towing xW-40 shouldn't be necessary. In reality 5w30 covers the vast majority of cases very well.

Don't over analyze at the end of the day. the frequency that you change the oil is arguably more important that the oil you actually use, within reason. Dont forget to get an oil filter with a check valve if you can/

[MoVolvos]

You have ruined the head gasket on four cars?

If so, I think there is almost no chance it is due to Mobil 1. There are many people who run only Mobil 1, on all their cars, and have zero blown head gasket issues.

Except for the 93 E320 the other cars had higher mileage and I started using Mobile One around 1990. What is interesting is that all four cars had oil leaks from the Head Gasket and no oil in the coolant. The Acura and Benz were Dealer repaired and before my Swepco days. The Toyota and Galant was quarter turn with a Torque wrench on the existing Head Bolts as the cars were not worth repairing but the oil leaks were reduced to minor seepage and did not have cooling system issues. The Toyota ran great with the Swepco when I purchased it with 178,000 miles and later at 250,000 the rear main gave up and was leaking a quart a week @ $5.00 a quart at the time. The car ran so great I sold it to the Smog Technician for $500 after he passed the smog

Blessings,

BKM

[xHeart]

Now both cars running with standard PENNZOIL 5W-30. Smells cleaner in garage. Replaced the missing bolts for under the engine cover on V70XC. Good tools and patience goes a long way.

Many thanks.

[KlubMarcus]

I've used all types of motor oil in my 1998 V70 XC: Castrol GTX conventional, Valvoline conventional, Valvoline High Mileage, Valvoline Synthetic, Mobil 1 Synthetic, Pennzoil Conventional, O'Reilly brand, SuperTech brand, etc. No difference whatsoever between brands. The only noticeable difference was the change in viscosity. I noticed start-up smoke when using 5w-30 oil. I should've stuck with 10w-30 because it never gets cold enough in the south to justify 5w-30 (on sale at the time).

[cn90]

Once or twice a year, my NAPA autoparts store goes on sales with NAPA Synthetic Oil at $3.50/qt.
NAPA Synthetic Oil is made by Valvoline (I checked).

So I stock up enough for 1 year supply for my 3 vehicles at home.

This is what I do:
- I change my oil every 5K-6K (I don't want to get into argument of extended interval, whoever wants to go that route, go ahead). This is what I do.
- WINTER: 5W30 Synthetic
- SUMMER: 10W30 Synthetic.

This has served me well during the last 10 years.

Many people use dino oil w/o any issues, but my thinking is: if I can get Synthetic for same price as dino (Synthetic at $3.50/qt is a bargain), then I use Synthetic. I have used dino oil before too.

[xHeart]

Once or twice a year, my NAPA autoparts store goes on sales with NAPA Synthetic Oil at $3.50/qt.
NAPS Synthetic Oil is made by Valvoline (I checked).

So I stock up enough for 1 year supply for my 3 vehicles at home.

This is what I do:
- I change my oil every 5K-6K (I don't want to get into argument of extended interval, whoever wants to go that route, go ahead). This is what I do.
- WINTER: 5W30 Synthetic
- SUMMER: 10W30 Synthetic.

This has served me well during the last 10 years.

Many people use dino oil w/o any issues, but my thinking is: if I can get Synthetic for same price as dino (Synthetic at $3.50/qt is a bargain), then I use Synthetic. I have used dino oil before too.

My two run with Penzzoil 5W30 standard. Is there a flush step before switching to synthetic?