Head Gasket?
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Northern Chev
- Posts: 55
- Joined: 18 October 2011
- Year and Model: 2000
- Location: SW Michigan
I'm not going to try to bench-diagnose your car but I just want to throw a couple things out there Mike that you might want to consider before jumping off the deep end on a head gasket job.
1) It's extremely rare (but still very possible) for these engines to have blown head gaskets. I'm NOT saying they don't... I'm just saying it's pretty rare.
2) The chemical test you did for a blown head gasket (assuming you did it correctly and waited for the engine to be completely up to temp before inserting the tube and starting the test) will almostt always show positive (failed) results within the first 15 seconds or so of doing the test --> Even if you have a "small" head gasket leak. You mentioned that it took "minutes" for it to turn color. I'd be very skeptical if it took that long. In fact, I'd repeat the test three or more times just to confirm. No matter the size of the gasket leak, if you have hydrocarbons in your system it's going to turn color almost instantly. Hydrocarbons are hydrocarbons. If you've been driving it this way for a while then they're very present in the system. It will turn color fairly quickly.
AND make sure you completely rinse out the test cylinder with clean water BEFORE repeating the test EACH time. Residual chemical traces from a previous test will spoil your results. Lots of guys don't do that...
3) I'm sure some will disagree with me on this but if this is one of the newer Volvo engines a head gasket job is doable but extremely taxing on your patience. If it's one of the older Volvos it's not so bad. I'm doing a 2000 XC70 SE AWD 2.4 (LPT) head gasket right now and it never ceases to amaze me how many inaccessible (and tiny) hoses there are on that engine. And what's up with those pinch clamps, ARG! I swear some engineer had stock in those damned pinch-style clamps.
4) I have to agree with the posts above that recommend if it's really only that small of a leak at this point then you'll be fine continuing to drive it like it is. Wait for it to inevitably get worse. That way it will be easier to diagnose and it may turn out to be something different. Who knows? It's going to cost you exactly the same thing either way. So you might want to hold off until it becomes easier to diagnose.
Hope this helps.
1) It's extremely rare (but still very possible) for these engines to have blown head gaskets. I'm NOT saying they don't... I'm just saying it's pretty rare.
2) The chemical test you did for a blown head gasket (assuming you did it correctly and waited for the engine to be completely up to temp before inserting the tube and starting the test) will almostt always show positive (failed) results within the first 15 seconds or so of doing the test --> Even if you have a "small" head gasket leak. You mentioned that it took "minutes" for it to turn color. I'd be very skeptical if it took that long. In fact, I'd repeat the test three or more times just to confirm. No matter the size of the gasket leak, if you have hydrocarbons in your system it's going to turn color almost instantly. Hydrocarbons are hydrocarbons. If you've been driving it this way for a while then they're very present in the system. It will turn color fairly quickly.
AND make sure you completely rinse out the test cylinder with clean water BEFORE repeating the test EACH time. Residual chemical traces from a previous test will spoil your results. Lots of guys don't do that...
3) I'm sure some will disagree with me on this but if this is one of the newer Volvo engines a head gasket job is doable but extremely taxing on your patience. If it's one of the older Volvos it's not so bad. I'm doing a 2000 XC70 SE AWD 2.4 (LPT) head gasket right now and it never ceases to amaze me how many inaccessible (and tiny) hoses there are on that engine. And what's up with those pinch clamps, ARG! I swear some engineer had stock in those damned pinch-style clamps.
4) I have to agree with the posts above that recommend if it's really only that small of a leak at this point then you'll be fine continuing to drive it like it is. Wait for it to inevitably get worse. That way it will be easier to diagnose and it may turn out to be something different. Who knows? It's going to cost you exactly the same thing either way. So you might want to hold off until it becomes easier to diagnose.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Northern Chev I really appreciate your input.I've been hesitant to tear it apart because it runs so good and I'm skeptical about the chemical test as you said it can be unreliable if your not careful.I've tested a few more times with different results which adds to my frustration.I'm managed to minimize the coolant lose to almost zero by relieving the pressure(loosen the radiator cap) at the end of the day.I still have a brief moment first thing in the moment when I smell antifreeze upon startup.I installed a schraeder valve on my rad cap and I take intermittent pressure readings,because I've been concerned about what I think is to much pressure on my radiator hoses,but for a few days now the pressure hasn't exceeded 14psi.Thanks again for the really informative post.One of the best things about this sight is it really makes you think.
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