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Drivers door power window switch repair

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » V70 Drivers Door Power Window Switch Repair
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erikv11
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Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
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Re: Drivers door power window switch repair

Post by erikv11 »

Does anyone know how this compares with the disassembly and cleaning for an 850 master window switch (center console)?
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

B5234T
Posts: 1
Joined: 19 October 2011
Year and Model: 1995 854T
Location: Wangavegas

Post by B5234T »

It's pretty much the same procedure.

I did a write up here http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=114576 a while ago, but without pictures.

If you refer to the above pics while your doing the job on your 850, you should get the same result.

Juan62
Posts: 676
Joined: 22 March 2011
Year and Model: S70 T-5M 1998
Location: New Orleans
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Post by Juan62 »

It does work. Everyone should try this before replacing any window switches.
98 S70 T5-M Brick for life

specialk45
Posts: 2
Joined: 11 April 2012
Year and Model: V70 T5 Wagon, 1998
Location: Vancouver Island

Post by specialk45 »

Thank you very much for this helpful post. I tried all the above for cleaning the contacts but to no avail. Both right windows were still ever so slightly finicky with the switches, with the odd little puff of smoke. So can't have that... just ordered a Dorman part, new, off ebay to replace it. Part # Dorman 901-550 Door Window Switch. Cost $108 USD, and $30 to ship.

Wanted to get new because you'd have to assume a used one will come with the same grime in there. My local volvo parts guys (http://www.chapmanmotors.ca) quoted ~$100CAD used and $200 something new.

Will follow up and let everyone know how it went once it gets here and in the car.

specialk45
Posts: 2
Joined: 11 April 2012
Year and Model: V70 T5 Wagon, 1998
Location: Vancouver Island

Post by specialk45 »

specialk45 wrote:Thank you very much for this helpful post. I tried all the above for cleaning the contacts but to no avail. Both right windows were still ever so slightly finicky with the switches, with the odd little puff of smoke. So can't have that... just ordered a Dorman part, new, off ebay to replace it. Part # Dorman 901-550 Door Window Switch. Cost $108 USD, and $30 to ship.

Wanted to get new because you'd have to assume a used one will come with the same grime in there. My local volvo parts guys (http://www.chapmanmotors.ca) quoted ~$100CAD used and $200 something new.

Will follow up and let everyone know how it went once it gets here and in the car.
So the Dorman switch arrived today. I snapped it in, and all windows in the car now work 100%. If it offers any help to anyone else I got the part off Ebay, member "ecaronline". Thank again for this post.

super_k_TH
Posts: 1
Joined: 16 May 2012
Year and Model: S70 1998
Location: Thailand

Post by super_k_TH »

Thank you very much it very useful!!!

MattDK
Posts: 1
Joined: 20 May 2012
Year and Model: V70 1998
Location: Dirty Jersey

Post by MattDK »

Before you take on this project, I suggest an easier, and potentially immediate solution, should you need to fix the switch in a pinch.

I cannot believe I fixed anything on this car with a jiggle, but, I did. My RR window was refusing to go up. I poked around on the interwebs and found that twenty to thirty quick up down motions of the switch might be enough to clean the contacts. I was able get the window up quickly and easily.

Maybe someday when I have nothing else to do I'll follow this thread. In the meantime, the kids are forbidden from opening the windows.

Thanks for the exhaustive detail, and help. This place is GREAT!

MK

KlubMarcus
Posts: 129
Joined: 3 July 2007
Year and Model: V70 XC, 1998
Location: Hampton Roads, VA
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Post by KlubMarcus »

mikealder wrote:Excellent write up, nice and easy to follow I guess this will be getting plenty of views due to the number of times I have seen cars with faulty door switches often due to water ingress when the rain water on the roof slides off and straight in to the door switches if you have the drivers window open even just a slight gap is enough to soak the switches! - Mike
Yep, definitely a design flaw. Thanks OP for the write-up with pics! :P
:o The beater just won't die! So we're clawing our way back to Stage 0.

rmmagow
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Joined: 11 March 2006
Year and Model: V70 1998
Location: Rhode Island USA
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Post by rmmagow »

WawHOO. Pouring Rain, driver's window stuck all the way down. Followed the instructions and BAM, all is good. Thank You.
1998 V70 AWD 228K - Daily Driver
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D - 197K Off Road For Now Brakes Failed
1998 S70 135K - FOR SALE
2003 GMC Sonoma - 114K - POS
1958 Mercedes Benz 220S 66K Original and never to be restored.
2006 Saturn ION 5-Speed - 150K Son's weird little easy to fix car

conradaplylerjr
Posts: 1
Joined: 12 October 2012
Year and Model: 2002 V70 XC AWD
Location: Washington

Post by conradaplylerjr »

Excellent step by step description. BUT, for those owning the V70 or V70 XC on the S80 chassis (mine's a 2002), the switch is electronic, and does not have brass contacts. The bad news is that it fails in the same way (ain't progress grand?). I found this out the hard way.

First, the switch is secured to the inside of the door panel with a torx screw and washer into a plastic boss, clipped into the panel. Using the "if it doesn't fit. force it" maxim, I prised the switch out, breaking the attachment boss loose. Don't worry, it really isn't needed. The clips on the switch itself do a great job of securng it to the door panel.

I disassembled the switch per the instructions, but found a circuit board where I had expected to see brass leaf contacts. On the reverse side was a rubber pad, covering many electronic switch pockets. All Stop! I cleaned the dust out of the switch and reassembled it, wondering whether I had destroyed it.

I reinstalled it in the car, and lo and behold, everything worked perfectly. I must have inadvertently gotten a connector pin cleaned, or some of the dust I removed allowed something to work.

I'm an engineer, so I want to know what I did to get this working, but you know, I'll take it. Saved me about $400.

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