Brake calipers

[anbran123]

I am planning to replace the rotors and pads on all four corners. I had a look at the rear pads and rotors. The pads are out of pad surface and the rotors are shot of course...

The problem is the rear brake pad pins are rusted terribly and I can't move the pins, even with a punch. The ends start to flatten out...

I guess the best idea now is to buy new calipers instead of trying to get those pins out..!?!?

Are the front calipers likely to be problematic? There is no pulling during braking or vibration.

Suggestions?!

1998 V70 FWD 288,000 km (runs beautifully)

[MoVolvos]

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Leave good enough alone and try some PB Blaster and soak it for a little bit. Use a punch and hit the pin in both directions. Do replace them if they have mushroomed some. They may seem tight at first but are much looser after they have been removed so again consider replacing them.

Be sure to bleed the system. Use a Turkey Baster to remove and existing fluid and add new before any work. Don't forget to remove enough fluid so when you push the Caliper Piston back into the Cylinder it will not overflow the Brake Fluid Reservoir.

Blessings,
BKM
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[rspi]

I would also consider using used calipers if they need to be replaced.

[Nevada1906]

Have the dust boots in the fronts pulled out of their grooves? If so, you'd probably be further ahead to just get remans from the local Napa.

That caliper question was one I attempted to answer of late when I upgraded to FCP's 302 kit. I had a nice running argument on this forum with a few who thought I had a flippant attitude toward safety because I shaved my front calipers to fit them behind a set of Columbas.

I eventually decided that they had a point and am getting new calipers, pads and rotors for the front end. Though I'm saving the 12s and brackets for the eventual wheel upgrade.

Seriously, when there's a doubt, there is no doubt. If the hardware's rusty, just go get remans.

[BEJinFbk]

If you get the kind of corrosion I think that you might
in Ontario, then rebuilds may very well be your best bet.
Like the man in the post above says: "Where there's a doubt".
Might as well at least inspect the fronts, too, while you're at it.

It's also a great time for E brake service and new brake fluid.
Maybe even stainless brake hoses, if you're feelin' froggy.
FCP has a decent deal on SS lines for about 80 bucks a set.

And Nevada - Be sure you post up some pics when you
get those Big Brakes done. 302's are a sweet upgrade!

[Nevada1906]

Already posted, and you get to see the discussion.

Enjoy.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=49192

Just so you understand, I may be casual in my attitude to safety, but it's because I believe the word "safety" is the term we use to describe a cost-benefit analysis THAT EACH ONE OF US INDIVIDUALLY MAKES.

That's why I don't like the modern usage of safety - because it's a relative, subjective and highly emotional concept that cannot be defined objectively. It isn't definable with hard lines and edges, and it means something different for each person.

Why should I use someone else's cost-benefit analysis for my purposes?

It also carries with it an attack on innovation and experimentation, on the grounds that all possible results of an unprecedented activity cannot be defined or predicted, thus risk remains, and ANY risk is apparently unacceptable in the modern world.

All technological innovation carries with it a certain inherent risk, and to focus excessively on the mitigation or elimination of that risk compromises the pursuit of the end to which we are applying ourselves. It would be like planning an expedition into the wilderness and worrying about whether there will be bathrooms along the way. An important concern, yes, but not excessively so.

Unfortunately, today we see safety policies and a general attitude of risk management aimed at soothing easily-frightened people, or those who think they have something to lose. Ye shall know them by their appeals to "What If?"

There's something about appeals to children, material damage and physical pain causes people to stop critically analyzing ideas or applying a sense of proportion to a statement.

I believe a certain amount of daring, even recklessness, is required to advance.

If OSHA had existed in colonial times, there would've been no westward expansion and no United States. Can't let you reckless types go about exploring the wilderness. Too dangerous, you know. Stay here on the coast where it's safe.

In the end, the modern world's focus on Safety, whatever that is, is the reason we don't have fusion reactors, flying cars, warp engines or even functional space flight.

Okay, I'm done rambling. I'm sure you think I'm nuts, but hey, I'm okay with that.

[anbran123]

Ok thanks for the help...One more question though...

I have replaced the rear rotors and the calipers/pads. My question is about those little pad "pins the hold the pads there. There is a small black round washer looking thing on each of the pins. Is that some sort of crimping/locking washer or something?! Do I hammer the pins in further until this "crimp" compresses or something?

Thanks

[jimmy57]

That split sleeve on the head of the pin is the retainer that holds pin in. By all means please drive it in until the head of the pin is flush with the caliper body around the hole. It will stop when it is in all the way.

[anbran123]

I thought so...Thank you very much!

[cn90]

1. Try using some heat (propane torch = $10 at hardware store), the heat should undo the pins so you can replace them.

2. At that age/mileage (1998 with 288,000 km or 180,000 miles), I'd do a brake hydraulic overhaul:
- new hoses
- new seals
This procedure will allow the braking system to run flawlessly for another 100K miles.

Here is the DIY I wrote back in March 2011.

DIY: 98 V70 Brake Hydraulic Overhaul (Hoses, Seals, Parking)
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=37721