C70 window regulator replacement

delquattro · Post by **delquattro** » 18 Jul 2012, 18:41

Well, I've finally removed the old window regulator. It turns out the rubber motor mounts failed.

My immediate questions are how do I install the lower two corner bolts. (If you've done it before, you know the bolts I'm talking about.)

Should I install the regulator, and then the glass?

Actually, any tips would be very appreciated...

Post by **jimmy57** » 18 Jul 2012, 19:31

Did you get two new bolts that hold glass to regulator?
They changed to have E7 (I think, maybe E5, the male Torx that requires a Torx socket) ends so the glass can be adjusted without taking whole thing out of door to do it.
The shouldered tumblehome adjuster bolts at bottom corners can be run all the way in to install. Take the outside door top w/strip off and put masking tape (or duct tape) on the top edge of door for scratch prevention. install reg with glass rolled all the way up.

Put all the washers back where you found them as they are shims. The new regulator should have the new fore-aft adjuster for the front upper mounting points. That gizmo adjusts to give it the right length to screw a new longer bolt in and hold reg in place. Probably will have to get the right length metric M8-1.25 bolt for that.
Put it all in door but leave mirror off and close the door but push the front edge of glass in so it doesn't drag the trim on front roof post. Look it over and gauge whether glass is high enough and positioned well. You have very little adjustment so initial glass fitting is IMPORTANT. If you have the new glass bolts you can move it w/o taking reg & glass back out. If not, get them. You really don't want to take it in and out 2,3,4 times.
When you get the glass fitted well in opening then put the mirror on. It has that funky round plate and curved seat stuff so it can be adjusted. The mirror is a very important guide for glass. Angle it inwards to guide the glass behind the trim on post and into the rubber w/strip. The forward edge of mirror usually has to be pushed in. It has to be flush with the back top edge of fender or even a little below it or you'll have wind noise there. Dollar bill test all way around top of glass. Must have drag but don't rip the dollar bills. If the tension is too tight it make pulling door handle to open door too hard and door closing too hard.If the glass doesn't tilt inward enough to go into w/strip then you need to back out those bottom bolts some.
The fit of glass at back vertical edge is tricky. light dollar drag all the way up. If it too tight at bottom then washers need to come out of the top three mount bolts. If too loose get washers and put in there.
last adjust is to get door bottom fit OK. You may find after all is adjusted Ok that the bottom of door is not flush with the body panel behind it. With the back top three bolts loose, brace leg against bottom of door, push at top back corner and while holding the door "tweaked", tighten those three bolts and then check the fit.
The inside w/strip has a rubber U strip up inside of it when you took it off. Pull that off and put it on the regulator rib first. it is effectively a spacer the make up for the thinner section of that rib where it is not triple thick. Then put the w/strip on. If u don't do it this way the spacer rubber rolls up most of the time and you wonder why the w/strip fits so crummy.

delquattro · Post by **delquattro** » 19 Jul 2012, 10:12

Wow, Jimmy! Thank you for the extensive reply!

I'm in a rural area, and I am installing a used regulator...so I'm in for a ride.

Again, Jimmy, thanks for the generous reply!

delquattro · Post by **delquattro** » 12 Aug 2012, 20:14

I have to thank you once, again, Jimmy...your post was extremely helpful. I finally finished installing the window regulator. Your pointers about the shims saved the day! I must have taken the WR in and out about twenty times. It works, and seems to be sealing pretty well, but it makes a noise only while rolling the window down. It seems that the cable is rubbing on something, and it makes a horrible grinding noise. It only does it going down. Any ideas?

So, for any brave souls planning this repair...a few suggestions:

In my case, the rubber motor mounts had broken. Knowing what I know now, I would buy the mounts, and even if I had a replacement WR on hand, waiting to be installed, I would let it sit if all that is needed is changing the motor mounts.

While you're buying mounts, you may want to buy some more door card clips, and what looks like a Dry Erase board eraser that attaches to the WR with fragile clips. I think it is called a Window Module Spacer. All of the sound deadening insulation is glued to the WR, and doesn't come off very cleanly.

I would tape the A pillar, too. I scratched mine up before I realized I was scratching it with the front of the WR.

One good thing came out of the WR replacement. My passenger door used to be very difficult to open. There is a Rube Goldberg type of mechanism that opens the door. One of the pieces is keyed to certain position, but it can get turned, which will make it difficult to unlock the door. I turned the keyed piece back around, and put some Loctite to keep it from spinning in place, and the door pops open like it should.

Thanks, again, Jimmy! Your help was invaluable!

msgtusmc · Post by **msgtusmc** » 11 Sep 2012, 21:36

1998 C70, Coupe, 2.3 T5, Auto,40k miles. My driver's door window would go down smooth & easy, but would only come up half way. Removed all inner panel stuff, un=bolted regulator/motor assy, removed from door, no visible damage/problem.
Sprayed regulator tracks with WD40, Sprayed bottom plastic rollers with silicone. Re-nstalled regulator assembly, left rear view mirror off, window now stops half way down and 1/4 way back up. Any help? Thank you.

Post by **jimmy57** » 11 Sep 2012, 23:44

Sorry Del, I missed the reply.
The grating noise is due to the carriage for the glass that rides up and down on the rails being twisted a little. IF you get it apart and look you'll be able to see it with a mirror. I think the front one is the more likely culprit based on my experience but it can be either one.
Often you can pry them a little to get the clearance between the rib the carriage rides on that rib.

msgtusmc, I'm afraid that means your lift cable is getting all fubarred inside the motor assembly. That is what I have seen on any that behaved like you describe. You don't mention the grating noise or scrubbing noises like it is binding. Usually binding will be relieved by lubrication. You might try some other lubricant. I'm not fan of WD-40 for lubing things. Rusty bolts yes, but it has so little oil in it that it is a poor lubricant. Gargage door lube sold at Home Depot and Lowe's is good for inside door stuff. Lubes good and is not so likely to attract dirt like white lithium spray grease.

msgtusmc · Post by **msgtusmc** » 22 Oct 2012, 02:45

Purchased replacement window regulator off e-bay, 1999 donor car, not the exact same as a 1998! Installed the reverse of removal of original, adjusted left/right bottom bolts to pass dollar test. Had to adjust window elevation with T6 1/4in socket on left side of regulator. Works perfect now. Now I have a spare drivers window. 2 days after window regulator replacement I had to remove the regulator to replace the complete door latch. Got replacement from local jy, had to swap door handle cable. Replaced complete iginition assembly 3 days before window regulator malfunctioned. First parts failures for me 14 yrs owner. 1998 C70, Coupe, 2.3HPT,Auto, 42k miles. Found out 1999 ignition module not the same as 1998!

Post by **jimmy57** » 22 Oct 2012, 07:19

Congrats! You completed a task that has overwhelmed a lot of Volvo techs.

Now, since I can be less than a nice person, is the tip I will share: If you need to remove door latches on C70 Gen I cars you can take the nuts off the lower adjusters for window "camber" and the door latch module will go down and inboard of regulator frame.
You take door handle off and lock cylinder out in order to get latch off door.

Post by **leonco** » 19 Jan 2013, 18:20

I just had to replace my window regulator for a c70 2003 convertible driver side window. Dealer wanted over $1200 to do it, and the part alone was 700. (600 aftermarket) I found a guy in Texas that repairs any window regulator for 100 to 150. I paid 75 for the round trip shipping by fedex. My mechanic installed it for $300

The guys name is Ismael and he has a company (small) that does auto glass. He gave me a warranty for lifetime and he repaired my regulator that had broken cable and mangled plastic parts. Looks and works great now and has my original part. His phone is 469-737-0035. Takes about one day once he gets the part. You have to ship all the frame with motor and without the window. I did my own packaging and all the shipping was $75 round trip.

I thought this would be a good thing to pass on. I'm close to Richmond, VA.