Hey guys, having a big problem.
I'll start at the beginning.
Was leaving work and decided I wanted a little bit of wheel spin and to get out of the lot quick, so I brought it into boost, at about 5 psi the car died.
Completely died, power was still on but it was no longer running.
Got it towed and such and heres whats going on now.
Ive replaced the fuel pump with a known working one, still does not prime or get power.
Replaced the fuel pump relay with a known working on, and jumped the relay position using 15 and 87, still no prime at fuel pump.
Checked the fuses and even replaced them just cuz, still nothing.
so idk where else to look now.
Cam position sensor?
Ignition coil?
tail light fluid?
Here's hoping you guys can help get the car back on the road asap.
No power to fuel pump, 1998 s70 t5
- RobTheModd
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cn90
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Run a separate wire from (+) terminal at battery to 87, fuel pump should run.
If you have no 12V to #15, probably ignition switch.
If you have no 12V to #15, probably ignition switch.
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- RobTheModd
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Ok so just a wire from + to 87, do I need to connect a wire from 87 to 15 as well? or no?
And how does one test the ignition coil?
And how does one test the ignition coil?
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
Sorry but I gotta say it... Never boost a cold motor.
Now that that's out of the way, is the car cranking, is the timing belt still on? Do you have any codes?
Now that that's out of the way, is the car cranking, is the timing belt still on? Do you have any codes?
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cn90
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The normal path of electrical flow is:
* Battery (+) ---> Ignition Switch ---> #15 on the connector ---> relay ---> #87 on the connector ---> fuel pump
If you bypass the the Ignition Switch and #15 and the relay itself, you basically feed (+) straight to the fuel pump:
* Battery (+) ---> #87 on the connector ---> fuel pump
* Battery (+) ---> Ignition Switch ---> #15 on the connector ---> relay ---> #87 on the connector ---> fuel pump
If you bypass the the Ignition Switch and #15 and the relay itself, you basically feed (+) straight to the fuel pump:
* Battery (+) ---> #87 on the connector ---> fuel pump
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rmmagow
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A little quick education requested. # 15, # 87 etc. What are these? Where are these numbers located? Is it all from wiring diagrams? I'm just curious as I see a lot of reference to various numbers for trouble-shooting and would like to better understand how diagnostics like this are run. I'm not a noob, but still hard-core shade-tree.
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jblackburn
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Those numbers are the pins of relay #103 that controls the fuel pump.
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cn90
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This post by Ozark Lee has all the detail ---> Fuel Pump Relay Repair:rmmagow wrote:A little quick education requested. # 15, # 87 etc. What are these? Where are these numbers located? Is it all from wiring diagrams? I'm just curious as I see a lot of reference to various numbers for trouble-shooting and would like to better understand how diagnostics like this are run. I'm not a noob, but still hard-core shade-tree.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... php?t=9681
- After the fusebox (driver's side firewall) is open, you will see Fuse #103.
- Remove the Fuse 103, then you will see the socket (connector).
- Match the socket pins with the relay pins on a drawing on a piece of paper (it is easy to get confused when looking at the relay vs the socket).
- If one is stuck in the middle of nowhere and suspect bad fuel pump relay, one can temporarily bypass the fuel relay to get home. This is done by jumping #15 and #87 on the socket.


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- RobTheModd
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Car cranks just wont turn on,rspi wrote:Sorry but I gotta say it... Never boost a cold motor.
Now that that's out of the way, is the car cranking, is the timing belt still on? Do you have any codes?
Timing belt is still on,
No codes.
cn90 wrote:The normal path of electrical flow is:
* Battery (+) ---> Ignition Switch ---> #15 on the connector ---> relay ---> #87 on the connector ---> fuel pump
If you bypass the the Ignition Switch and #15 and the relay itself, you basically feed (+) straight to the fuel pump:
* Battery (+) ---> #87 on the connector ---> fuel pump
Sounds good.
After I jump it, I can just turn the car on, or prime it a couple times by turning the key?
Or better yet, would I hear the pump prime when I turn the key if this method works, and if it does not, where to from there?
Sorry I am at work, so trying to get as much info as possible before I get home to tackle all this O.o
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