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89 240 Fuel/electronic Ignition Issue.30Yr+Volvo Mec.stumped

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
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89wagon240
Posts: 5
Joined: 18 August 2012
Year and Model: 240 DL, 1989
Location: MA

89 240 Fuel/electronic Ignition Issue.30Yr+Volvo Mec.stumped

Post by 89wagon240 »

120k mi. Car won't start. Usually won't start on hot muggy days. Volvo mechanic checked fuel pressure, put in new mass air flow sensor, swapped out the ECU and a handful of other checks. 30 years experience with Volvo 240's and he is saying this car has a mind of its own and he has never seen anything like this before. Not what I wanted to hear.

Car drives like a champ when it does run. If I keep it in a cool AC garage, pretty much guaranteed to start. If a rain storm passes through and cools off the day, it will normally start too AFTER not being able to start in the previous hot muggy weather.

Starter cranks. Has spark from distributer & wires.

It has stalled on me several times after driving it just very short distance and won't start (sometimes it wont start for several days).

I'm thinking there is some electronic sensor that is shutting off the fuel jets?

I can hear the fuel pumps running. Full tank of gas etc... $800 into it and still driving me crazy.

Thanks for any leads!

lummert
Posts: 1381
Joined: 29 January 2008
Year and Model: 760 1988
Location: Portland Indiana, USA
Been thanked: 26 times

Post by lummert »

Make sure that the intank pump is working.
1988 Volvo 760 Turbo Wagon

89wagon240
Posts: 5
Joined: 18 August 2012
Year and Model: 240 DL, 1989
Location: MA

Post by 89wagon240 »

Thanks for the reply. With the filler cap off, I have heard the intake pump running. Wouldn't normal fuel pressure readings indicate both pumps are working aswell though?

lummert
Posts: 1381
Joined: 29 January 2008
Year and Model: 760 1988
Location: Portland Indiana, USA
Been thanked: 26 times

Post by lummert »

Did you check or replace the power stage (ignition module)?
1988 Volvo 760 Turbo Wagon

89wagon240
Posts: 5
Joined: 18 August 2012
Year and Model: 240 DL, 1989
Location: MA

Post by 89wagon240 »

haven't checked the ingnition module yet. having the crank sensor replaced today,will let you know how it goes, thanks!

89wagon240
Posts: 5
Joined: 18 August 2012
Year and Model: 240 DL, 1989
Location: MA

Post by 89wagon240 »

car started with new crank sensor. lets hope for a few thousand more starts right?? thanks all.

89wagon240
Posts: 5
Joined: 18 August 2012
Year and Model: 240 DL, 1989
Location: MA

Post by 89wagon240 »

car is still "intermittent" with starting. new crank sensor didn't fix the issue. car would not start the next day. put in a used ingition module. car did not start at first couple of tries. BUT did start after a few minutes. for the next 2 hours car started just fine. this morning car is starting fine too. mechanic is still not 100% comfortable we've solved the issue though and doesn't want me leaving with the car just yet.

he is going to replace the fule pump relay or re-solder the connections in it (1989 original relay is in the car).

lummert
Posts: 1381
Joined: 29 January 2008
Year and Model: 760 1988
Location: Portland Indiana, USA
Been thanked: 26 times

Post by lummert »

Might be time that relay was replaced.
1988 Volvo 760 Turbo Wagon

JDL54
Posts: 2
Joined: 8 September 2012
Year and Model: 1992 240
Location: Illinois

Post by JDL54 »

Moisture in the air...a familiar ailment. It sounds like a secondary ignition problem. I have experienced the same thing on each of three different 240s, 1987,1990, and 1992. Replacing the wire set (including coil wire) and cap and rotor has always cleared it up. The problem seems to be a degradation of the insulation on the wires leading to loss of proper spark at the correct time and some leakage to ground and /or between wires. Though the problem really seems to be a wire problem, I have generally replaced the cap and rotor at the same time. You may or may not be able to temporarily stem the problem by carefully cleaning the outside of the coil, cap, and wires, shooting them with a little 'Wire Dry' or the equivalent, and trying to keep the wires from contacting each other.

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