? Drilling hole in Poly Mount (Upper Torque Mount)

[MilehighV70XC]

I have not attempted this yet...but, I was just thinking the other day of doing this to the old style IPD solid poly mount in my car. After seeing the new design they have for the S70/V70 with the open space in it IPD Poly mount, I think a few holes would help the minor vibration the poly mount adds.

I am replacing an old style IPD poly mount in my dads S70 T5 this weekend with the new style IPD fan blade design.
The one I am replacing is the old solid IPD poly mount like yours, I am replacing because it has cracked and separated in a couple spots. I can rock the motor back and forth by hand. (IPD replaced with no question, great customer service)

I only bring this up because if you end up drilling holes, I would rotate your holes 90degrees from your drawing and start with four holes evenly spaced out first. Leaving enough room for two more if you decide to. The mount on my dads car cracked and separated around the 9 o'clock a 3 o'clock positions, about where you want to drill the holes.

[cn90]

I think xHeart is right, but there is more to it, read on.....

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I just replaced my Trans Torque Mount, here are my observations:

1. The Hutchinson brand is definitely Volvo because it is scratched out where the Volvo logo normally is.
The Hutchinson smaller bushing is softer now, maybe a redesign from the solid bushing.
Or maybe Hutchinson makes it this way so it breaks down sooner, so they can sell more of this stuff LOL.

2. Spray the nuts/bolts 1 day ahead using WD-40 and all that jazz.
- Smaller bolts: definitely use a box wrench (14-mm) because of tight space. The box wrench will prevent stripping the bolt too.
- The larger nut: 19-mm: a breaker bar makes it a breeze.

3. Since the Hutchinson bushing is a bit thinner than factory, I used some 3/16" fuel hose and cut a few pieces as shown and place it so make it more solid (but still a bit softer than factory).
- I loosely attach the nut/bolt, final tightening with floor jack (see below).
- What I do is kind of what I do, may not be scientific.

4. During install, loosely attach the 14-mm bolts.
- Then use a floor jack, lift the trans a bit (1-2") the other side of the Trans Mount (19-mm studs) will now slide in the holes easily.
- I tighten these nuts/bolts with the floor jack in place because this is the engine position when you put it in "D". Read somewhere that people torque these bolts when someone is in the car in "D" (foot on brake). But this is too dangerous. A floor jack below trans is much safer! Don't forget to tighten the nut/bolt on the bushing itself (if you decide to add fuel hose as I did).

Anyway, this is what it is....take it with a grain of salt.

Ciao...

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