Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

Andrew ren · Post by **Andrew ren** » 02 Sep 2012, 19:54

So I went ahead did my abs module. All went fine, but the CEL still on even after 100 km driving. I was getting the up arrow and CEL first then I got it reset @ my volvo garage, 10km after that I got abs/brake/CEL all on right after I left the garage, then all the other lights went off on their Own beside the CEL(this is the one permanently on).
And this is the one still on. My questions is, did I fix it or not? Can the CEL turn off by itself after you perform THE DIY. Or I have to get it reset and go from there.

Post by **igel513** » 02 Sep 2012, 20:06

You have to have your codes read if you don't have a scanner. They can erase the cel then observe if it comes back or not. If it doesn't, you've fixed the problem

Andrew ren · Post by **Andrew ren** » 04 Sep 2012, 07:00

cool will do that.
is it must a special scanner(volvo type) or a common one will do(reset the CEL)?

Andrew ren · Post by **Andrew ren** » 04 Sep 2012, 07:05

started like this a month ago

Andrew ren · Post by **Andrew ren** » 04 Sep 2012, 07:06

got it reset and then came back like this after 10km driving

Andrew ren · Post by **Andrew ren** » 04 Sep 2012, 07:08

performed the DIY.
Now the CEL is the only light still on, and it was the only light stays on right before the DIY.

krzyhan · Post by **krzyhan** » 09 Sep 2012, 21:29

I just want to say sthank you guys who were exploring this repair od module. I did it twice, first was my 1998 fiur years ago, and today I had to do it formy wifes' 2001 XC70. The procedure was simply and it took me about 4 hours being wery slow. Dremel was used to undercut about 1/8 down of line where two sides of box are glued. Then gently prying I managed to lift the lid. It was subborn because cut I did made was shallow and not always i did deep enough. What is impotrant that you should remember of area around the little pipes which are "channels" for mounting bolts. There are surroounding plastick seals on the inner side of the lid. Rubberized plastick line is natural seal in this area and not damaging it assures that moisture will not penetrate trough holes surrounding thise small pipes and self holding washers. I found there is a good chance to moisture finding its way into the box. The module is in the car and will be tested for couple of days being sealed with alluminum duct tape, before sealer (silicone) will complete the job.
Only removing module took half an hour, most of the time I spent on grinding and soldering. My modulle didn't have sealing coat so I didn't need to scrub around points. As I was not sure which points caused problem I decided to resolder (40W conventional soleding iron) soldering points of connector area, all big transistors and other bigger points within board too. It took about na hour as I was very conservative to apply amuount of heat. I did allow to cool down before nex few points. Also I used ESD bracelet to prevent electrostatic discharge during handling module connnecting it to the negative pin of connector at the corner. Cleaning resoldered points with electronic components cleaner was completing task. I did clean whole module and both connnectors before I did it open to assure dirt is no option to get into it.
I have to mention one more thing. I did also repaired using this method my friend's module about two years ago. Few months ago the same problem occured in his case again. We did disassembled module and resoldered it. But I was wondering why it had to be done second time. Investigation has lead me to think that vibration of the board and bottom assemled coils of selenoids is possibly root of the whole problem. I don't have any module which I would disassembly completly to see how it is made on the bottom. My friend admitted that he has used to hard breaking due to his style of driving and ABS was used trough that time more ffrequently than average pesron would do. I am wondering if sombody has similar observations?

Andrew ren · Post by **Andrew ren** » 12 Sep 2012, 07:33

just an update. got the CEL reset. and have been 200km driving, NO single light comes back on yet!

Thanks everyone!

Gubernaculum · Post by **Gubernaculum** » 23 Sep 2012, 23:11

Did my module this wkend. I recommend doing it as soon as you have a problem with it - it's pretty easy. By waiting I probably endangered myself a bit driving around for months with questionable brakes. Plus, my car eventually threw a p1618 check engine light at me that I cannot clear with my tool. I assume I'll have to take it to a dealer ($cheap job suddenly costs $100 or whatever to clear a dang code).

My tips: I didn't have a etorx5, so I used a 4mm socket. It worked. You may strip yours, but I risked it and it worked fine for me. I used deck screws (which I ground down the heads to make them smaller diameter) to screw the module to a piece of scrap wood and pried up on the lid with pry bars. Go slow. Hold steady pressure as the glue starts to snap-crackle-pop and it'll let go without any cutting. I got a new 40watt soldering iron for $18 at home depot and with the pointy tip it worked fine. I've only soldered a few times and I wasn't good at it but it worked.

My codes: I usually had ABS + Check engine + traction control light. I usually had P1550. Last week I threw a P1618 and my car momentarily wouldn't shift, then had the up arrow flashing transmission light. I haven't had a problem in 200 miles since my fix, other than p1618 not clearing (pesky one, that).

aisrael · Post by **aisrael** » 24 Sep 2012, 16:07

Does anyone know if I can put a ABS module from a 98 V70 fwd NA into a 99 V70 fwd NA?

I have a spare 98 V70 that is not in use currently.

Thanks
Aaron

Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

Re: Do it yourself ABS module repair.