DIY – ABS module repair.
Have a P2 Volvo? Read this first! MVS Contributor Extraordinaire jimmy57 » BCM changes 2002 and later are not always programmable. I would say for US market model P2’s that they may never be plug n play. There was a change that year where the BCM is built with full software and when car is assembled they get to end of assembly line the BCM is only profiled to the car and not a full download as before.
The process at the car begins with removing fuse number 14 from the fuse box and then disconnecting the power connector and the signal connector from the ABS module. It is easiest to remove the signal connector first which is done by depressing the catch and lifting the connector shell straight up, The connector hood hinges and this releases the connector. If the car is to be driven while the module is being repaired it would likely be a good idea to wrap the connectors in a Baggy and to secure the connectors away from things that get hot.
The next step is to remove the four Torx bolts that secure the module to the pump/modulator assembly. In my case with an normally aspirated engine I found that removing the air heater pipe from the airbox gave me much more room. Three of the four bolts come out easily but the fourth bolt, lower front, is largely blocked by the throttle cable. I found that putting the ratchet below the throttle cable worked the best.
Once the torx bolts are removed and set aside the module is removed by dropping it an inch or so to clear the solenoid plungers.
he next step is the hard step. Clearly they don’t want you to open the box. It has the press on retainers around the posts and the entire box has a silicone seal. The press on retainers were very corroded and rusted around the posts and after futzing with them for 20 minutes or so I just fired up the Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and sliced through each of them and removed them. I then tried to release the silicone seal by using a small screwdriver and raking it vertically between the lid and the base, pulling the silicone out from between the top and the bottom housings.
I was trying very hard to keep all of the plastic intact but I was unable to do so. In the end I might have been better off scoring the whole outer lip of the lower housing away with the Dremel tool from the start. After much scraping, prising, and breaking of the lower lip I was able to remove the top off of the module.