No start, no crank issue

[Swedish Iron]

1998 S70 2.4 AT NA
Problem: Car ran fine, parked overnight, next day no start. No turn over. I get all dash lights, including a flashing arrow, some clicking under dash and hood. Headlights turn off when key is turned on. Also noticed the two lights on the SEW switches would blink, as well as alarm light.

What I have done:

Newer battery,
New starter
Turned key and moved shifter P & N and shook it around a little
Ran shifter back and forth 10-12 times to clear contacts
Replaced wire connector for the four wires going to positive terminal
Replaced battery in key fob
Disconnected battery and reapplied
Rotated relays and fuses associated with starter

Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance

[vjaneczko]

Welcome to the forum.

Did you take a multimeter to the battery and other bits to check power flow & continuity?

Blinking lights tells me there's an electrical gremlin under the hood somewhere. You replaced the positive wire, did you inspect the negative wires? In my 850 I just discovered the main ground cable going to the engine block is totally shot and I'm thinking that as it was failing it was causing all sorts of problems.

One other thing to double-check is that the ECU and it's wiring is in good shape.

[Swedish Iron]

Thanks for the welcome and the ideas, I will tackle them this weekend and report back.

thanks

[Swedish Iron]

can someone tell me how to remove the shifter plate to get to the neutral switch?

Thanks

[vjaneczko]

Are you talking about removing the center console or the PNP connector on the transmission?

[Swedish Iron]

I was speaking of the the "P,N,R,123" plate to get to the PNP switch. Chiltons (probably the most useless manual I have ever seen) tells me this is how to gain access to the switch.

Thanks

[kcodyjr]

Chiltons (probably the most useless manual I have ever seen)

I've got a roll of important papers, mounted to the wall in a small room in my home, that's more useful than a Chilton's. Less scratchy, too. Haynes isn't a whole lot better for a Volvo. Your best resource is to search this forum.

[Ozark Lee]

Also noticed the two lights on the SEW switches would blink, as well as alarm light.

I'm not sure I am understanding what you are saying here. Are you hazard lights blinking?

If so then you tripped the alarm and the immobilizer. Close all of the doors and then use either the remote or the key to lock and unlock the doors. The hazard lights should stop blinking and the car should start just fine. The alarm usually has a horn but on 90% of the 850s on the road the horn doesn't work anymore.

The immobilizer prevents the starter from working which I think was your original problem.

...Lee

[BEJinFbk]

can someone tell me how to remove the shifter plate to get to the neutral switch?

Thanks

Here's some starter circuit info:

98 S-V 70 Power Supply and Starter System.pdf

(340.5 KiB) Downloaded 243 times

PNP is under the hood (3/71).
So is the starter relay (2/35).
I'd start by pulling the relay
and metering the socket while
an assistant turns the key.

The starter relay is 2/35, show in the fuse box with the big fuses.
You should see 12 volts on socket 86 when the key is turned into start.
That will indicate that your ignition switch is functional.

You should see a solid ground on socket 85.
( This is a switched ground that's
supplied by the anti-theft system. )
That tells you that the anti-theft module (2/76)
is happy with the world and will allow you to
energize the starter relay and start the car.

You should see 12 volts on socket 30.
This is the supply voltage that the relay
passes along to the starter solenoid
when the starter relay is energized.

Hope this helps.

[Swedish Iron]

Here is the latest:
Measured starter relay sockets almost
86 has 12 volts
30 has 12 volts
Battery has 12volts
Tried reaching in there to measure starter, thought I made contact, showed no volts. I am going to have to remove fan when I have more time and try that one again.

Not sure where to put the probes to measure 85?

So I went and picked up a new relay anyways and no change, guess I got a spare relay!

another question: a week earlier I was trying to fix the rear passenger lock, took it a part, found out I needed a new mechanism and put everything back together until I could get new mechanism. I have not put new/used mechanism in yet. Could that have triggered something with the immobilizer so it would engage a week later and create no start condition?

Thanks