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98 v70xc, coughs and sputters, p0243 and p0410

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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phidoe2000
Posts: 19
Joined: 27 June 2012
Year and Model: 98 V70XC
Location: FL, USA

98 v70xc, coughs and sputters, p0243 and p0410

Post by phidoe2000 »

I'm hoping someone out there can point me in the right direction. Here's whats up:

A week ago the SEL came on, as well as the service light. I figured it was time for an oil change and I'd have my indy volvo mechanic check the codes at the same time.

I was heading to work at 0530 and the car began to miss, and then stalled out entirely. I was able to fire it up and make it run about 30 seconds before I hit the side of the road. I attempted to start it several more times but the car would turn over and cough and sputter, but not start. This was accompanied by a lovely sulfur smell.

I had the car towed home and got my code reader out. It had 2 codes: p0243 and p0410, the latter I had seen before on this car. My mechanic informed me that it was common, my SAS was surely shot, full of water, etc. He told me that it was a $500 part and that it wouldn't be an issue if I could live with the SEL popping up from time to time. I would also mention that I head out each day in the dark and always observe the "head light dim" that I suppose correlates to the SAS engaging.

Firstly, am I correct that neither of these codes should directly coorelate to the symptoms I'm experiencing in the car presently?

So, I started looking at all the vacuum hoses. I replaced the wastegate hose to the TVC, the intake to TVC, and I skipped the third because I wasn't sure I could get it back on due to it's location. I popped the arm off the wastegate to ensure it moved freely in the turbo and it did. I attached vacuum to the actuator to see it I could get it to move the wastegate and this is interesting (or maybe not). Vacuum did not move the wastegate, however, reversing and applying positive pressure did. Is this normal?

I pulled the maf off and cleaned it as recommended. I got under the car and checked the intercooler hose. Nothing found. Unplugged the battery for a couple hours. Rehooked everything up, reset codes, fired the car up, and it ran poorly for about two minutes and stalled again. Did not set any codes during this experience.

Any suggestions?

Thanks! Ken
Last edited by matthew1 on 15 Sep 2012, 09:49, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Edited title for clarity.

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kcodyjr
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Post by kcodyjr »

First move with dodgy running is to see if it's any worse, or better, with the MAF disconnected.

Also, check the vacuum line under the passenger's side of the intake manifold, it has a tendency to fall off.
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phidoe2000
Posts: 19
Joined: 27 June 2012
Year and Model: 98 V70XC
Location: FL, USA

Post by phidoe2000 »

Thanks. I'll check. I forgot and important detail. The vacuum hose that runs from the turbo to the shroud area had popped off. Replacing it didn't help. Could caused the wastegate code?

rmmagow
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Post by rmmagow »

Here's what I would check, I have a 98 V70 AWD.
Open the air cleaner and make sure the broken SAS didn't screw up the air filter.
key in position 2, remove fuel pressure test cap and press on the valve to see if fuel squirts. No fuel, I'd first try to swap out the relay numbered 103 and try again. Turn off the car before pulling 103. There's a way to jumper this connection too. I don't remember the numbers but a Fuel Pump Relay search here will find that out for you.
Heavy sulfur smell I think means a lot of raw gas dumped into the cat, but I am not 100% on that.
Check the big hose going to the throttle body, use your hands, visual can be deceiving.
Check your distributor cap for being on there good.
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phidoe2000
Posts: 19
Joined: 27 June 2012
Year and Model: 98 V70XC
Location: FL, USA

Post by phidoe2000 »

I did all that already except the distributor. Going to check fuel pressure in the morning with a gauge. Got a good squirt by depressing the shrader. I'll check the distributor cap as well. Thanks!

phidoe2000
Posts: 19
Joined: 27 June 2012
Year and Model: 98 V70XC
Location: FL, USA

Post by phidoe2000 »

Ok. Checked distributor. Looked good. Tried to check fuel pressure but I must have set it up wrong. Disconnected the maf. Car started and was able to idle for an extended time. The car was less than smooth, hunting a bit. After five minutes I pulled it in and the car stalled. Thoughts? Oh and the only code displayed was from disconnecting the maf.

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kcodyjr
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Post by kcodyjr »

phidoe2000 wrote:Disconnected the maf. Car started and was able to idle for an extended time. The car was less than smooth, hunting a bit. After five minutes I pulled it in and the car stalled. Thoughts?
Classic symptoms of a worn MAF.
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phidoe2000
Posts: 19
Joined: 27 June 2012
Year and Model: 98 V70XC
Location: FL, USA

Post by phidoe2000 »

Is there a way to bench test a maf? I'm sitting here with a brand new Volvo maf and I can't bring myself to plug it in and possibly waste $$$$.

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kcodyjr
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Post by kcodyjr »

I'm not aware of any bench testing technique for the MAF.

Am I to understand you've bought a new MAF already, and hesitate to install it because then you can't return it? If so, I wouldn't worry. It will definitely need a MAF sooner or later. Also, your symptoms are a perfect match, including that it runs better without it.
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went

phidoe2000
Posts: 19
Joined: 27 June 2012
Year and Model: 98 V70XC
Location: FL, USA

Post by phidoe2000 »

You understood perfectly. I'm just gonna do it. Wish me luck.

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