2000 V70 XC Powers up but doesn't turn over

digitalocracy · Post by **digitalocracy** » 21 Sep 2012, 06:09

Hiya everyone.

I purchased a 2000 V70 XC earlier this year. When I bought it I knew it had a couple of issue which I thought I could work through - and some of that has been the case - but I'm stuck on this one (well, haven't had a good look yet but need to come up with a solution fast or I'll be in real trouble).

After buying the car I paid my local independent shop to go through it and tell me what they found wrong with it. It was missing the rear drive shaft (knew that), needed a couple suspension bits changed, new washer pump, and of course with 175k on the odo it was about due for a new ETM. The shop cleaned the ETM for me to keep me going a bit longer. I put in a remanufactured drive shaft, replaced the suspension bits, fixed the washer pump and drove it until the ETM problem got really bad (at 185k on odo), I wasn't stalling yet but ETS light was coming on regularly and the throttle was very eradict. The worst was when I'd start in the morning and it would almost stall and then while driving, everytime I'd come to a stop the car would shake like hell from the engine not settling down.

In the midst of this one of my engine mounts broke, which caused an oil line going to the turbo to start leaking. I immediately took it in to my indy and they fixed both of those problems.

After that I replaced the ETM with the Xemodex model (this was about 6 weeks ago) which significantly improved the throttle/idle issues but not completely. If the throttle seemed to be about 75% better than it was. So I then replaced the MAF (with genuine Bosch) because I've heard these problems go hand in hand which made the throttle/idle issue again much better, proobably at like 90% better. The last thing I'd heard I should check was the Fuel System Relay, for $20 I figured I'd just drop in a new one. At first I thought that made the throttle issue 95% better - still not perfect but darn close. I was happy. Everything was great.

That lasted a couple days before it started shaking at stops again, not nearly as bad but it was still noticeable. Also, if I was holding a steady RPM, primarily between 2000-2500 (like on the highway) the engine ran rough. On exceleration it was smooth though.

Then we get to this morning. I went to start the car and there was no go. All of the dashboard lights came on and I heard a faint whine sound, like the ETM engaging or a fuel pump starting or something. The starter wasn't cranking though and the car certainly wasn't trying to turn over. I shut it down, took the key out and tried it again, about three times. Same thing each time. That's when I hopped on the Ural and road it to work because somebody's got to pay the bills.

Any thoughts?

Post by **vjaneczko** » 21 Sep 2012, 09:54

Welcome to the forum.

Did your shop go through a Stage 0 review or just take care of the items you mentioned?

There's a few things to check. If the starter isn't spinning, check your battery first, then the starter. If they're both OK, see if you can spin the crankshaft - remove the spark plugs to reduce pressure and keep the car in neutral.

Post by **JDS60R** » 21 Sep 2012, 10:21

Please pull the plugs and see if engine then spins. Shaking indicated ignition issue or head gasket failure. If engine is hydro locked then starter is working to wreck bearings. Hopefully this is not the issue but better safe than sorry.

If there is not starter engagement heard when key is turned, follow above post for normal starter issues (low batt , bad switch, bad cable, bad starter)

digitalocracy · Post by **digitalocracy** » 21 Sep 2012, 14:10

Thanks, I checked the battery with my multi-meter and it shows 12.2 volts DC so that seems good. The starter doesn't seem like it is spinning at all. I'll pull the plugs and try turning the shaft to see what happens. What's the best way to test a starter?

Post by **Pauloil** » 21 Sep 2012, 14:26

12.2 isn't good enuf for a start: i'd say 12.4. 12.6 is normal. have you looked or done a voltage drop on the B+ cable on this baby? that could explain a lot of your symptoms. my batt was 12.3 before switching out the B+ cable from batt to fuse box, 12.6 after.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=35208

Post by **vjaneczko** » 21 Sep 2012, 15:21

You'll want to check the amps of the battery, not just the voltage, because the starter motor needs a huge amount of juice. If the dash light come on but the engine won't crank, you may just need a jump to get it started. If the battery is new, you could be looking at having to get a new alternator.

Post by **Pauloil** » 21 Sep 2012, 16:19

the first thing to do is a voltage drop test on your cables

digitalocracy · Post by **digitalocracy** » 21 Sep 2012, 18:06

Awesome, today has been nothing if not hectic so I've been stealing moments to try things. Tomorrow I'll have time to actually test stuff out. This is my first volvo and I'm learning how temperamental they can be (or seem to be). Would I be able to go and pickup some cable and make new ones myself (like I might on say an old Mini) or do I need to invest in getting some "proper" OEM/AM Volvo cables - in your opinions. The battery is old so that may well be the problem. Also, I haven't replaced the plugs since I bought the car, anyone want to weigh in on a recommendation for what to get - NGK, Bosch? Does it matter? Any recommendation on plug gap?

Thank you guys so much for the help!

Post by **Pauloil** » 21 Sep 2012, 18:56

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6381/112 ... 70-v70-c70

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5076/102993-spark-plug or get set of volvo plugs

KlubMarcus · Post by **KlubMarcus** » 21 Sep 2012, 19:54

digitalocracy wrote: The battery is old so that may well be the problem.

My battery finally died. I was adjusting the headlights with the engine off. It was a Volvo brand battery that was marked "Made in Sweden". It's at least 5 years old because that's when I bought the car used, might even be the factory battery! It wouldn't hold a full charge the day after, needed a jump start from then on.

I replaced it with an Interstate Mega-Tron 47. The performance has been excellent the last few days. It is smaller and lighter than the Volvo brand battery, just snap the battery hold-down a few notches over. It's also cheaper compared to the dealership, and the Interstate store gives you a few bucks for turning in the old battery. Car starts great! I also have more room to mess around the air intake area.