A couple years ago I had to replace both my transmission (had a sensor crumble inside and destroy it) and then later my radiator (plastic tank) failed, and I replaced with an aftermarket all metal one. I am pleased with the radiator, and generally with the tranny. However, I am burning through my fluid way too quick. So I have decided to add a secondary air cooler, along with a transmission temp guage.
Equipment:
B&M Supercooler 70268 $55.95 Amazon
Derale Oil Temp guage kit 13009 $46.95 Amazon
Valvoline Dex/Merc 12 quart case $60.41 Amazon (note: the name "Dexron III" is trademarked by GM check your fluid to be sure it is compatible)
Brass fittings engineered for applicaion $48.10 Surplus Depot (San Diego hydraulics, electrical, gadgets supply)
The Plan:
1. Remove the grill
2. Mount the supercooler in front of the AC condenser using the zip tie application. The zip ties will bend the aluminum fins a little bit, but this should not harm the condenser.
3. Drain the oil pan on the tranny. I want to clean the magnetic plug, and I only want to pull two quarts out at a time while flushing. The pan should hold more than that. So if I don't drain the pan, I will contaminate the new fluid when I refill the two quarts.
4. disconnect the lower transmission cooler line.
5. install the engineered brass fittings in the radiator and the hose that came with the Supercooler.
6. install the temp sensor in the brass fittings
7. install the brass fitting (came with the Supercooler) on the return pipe.
8. Clean and re-install the drain plug in the tranny.
9. Measure and replace the EXACT amount of fluid that came out.
10. USe the connected rubber hose connected to the output of the radiator (via the newly installed engineered brass fittings) to flush the radiator two quarts at a time, shifting gears, and replacing the exact amount.
11. using the hose from the super cooler kit, connect the super cooler in series with the radiator cooler (Hose from radiator to supercooler in. Then supercooler out to tranny return pipe). Will use the hose clamps that come with the super cooler.
12. top off the tranny fluid (should take some now that it is filling the extra cooler).
13. watch for leaks
14. connect the wiring to the sensor. The sensor is grounded, noneed to ground it. Wire from the top running back to the firewall and through under the dash.
15. Identify where I am installing the new guage
16. sensor wire to the guage
17. pos. guage light to accessory light dimmer variable resistor
18. neg. guage light to ground
19. fuse 16 accessories to power guage
20. drive until temp comes up
21. Check for leaks
22. check fluid level
Easy as that right??? We'll see stay tuned, I will update with pics as I go!
Mod - Auxilliary transmission oil cooler s90
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lindy8_man
- Posts: 126
- Joined: 29 November 2009
- Year and Model: 1998 S90
- Location: San Diego
Mod - Auxilliary transmission oil cooler s90
Beer and DIY Volvo Repairs are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
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lindy8_man
- Posts: 126
- Joined: 29 November 2009
- Year and Model: 1998 S90
- Location: San Diego
Well, he best laid plans of mice and men...
Here is the starting point: So as I got started, I decided I needed to double check the direction of flow. Good thing I did! I had planed for the flow to work opposite of what is actually happening. On my car, the hot oil from the transmission flows to the bottom of the radiator. and is pushed up to the top! This is acutally better due to the ease of access to the upper tubes. I did have to purchase a 17 mm flanged pipe wrench. The brass fittings are very soft! I also decided against the zip tie mounts. I didn't like how close the super cooler was to the condenser. I also was concerned about too much bending on the aluminum fins. So I used the erector set mounting brackets that came with the set. I was able to bracket the coolet to a nut on the corner of the head light, a nicely placed hole in the metal structure and stretched across to the right to catch the end of a condenser mounting screw. All together I had to purchase an additional 3 bolt sets and locking washers. two washers to fit the pre cut hole in the structure, and I robbed a 3/8 nut from the guage kit that I can replace later. The cooler is in a little crooked, but there is no worry for asthetics here. the grill will hide what is going on in that space. On the left, I have about 3 inches between the cooler and condenser. The other side matches up nicely.
The hose was run through a passage that was covered by two cowels that I removed. I will work to get those back in soon, however there are quite a few spots where the hose could rub more than I am comfortable. So I will be seeking some teflon mesh to protect the hose from wear. Flushed and checked for leaks. I used all 12 quarts I did put more in than I got out. that was to be expected since I added more capacity in hose and the cooler. The major connections are solid. The linkage for the temp sensor is leaking not too bad. it was recommended that I use teflon tape. I did not use it on all the connections, as I was trying to maintain a ground. But I later found I had a lot working against me. the fittings have an anodized coating that do not conduct. also in the largest fitting, where the nuts can swivel, I suspect there is an o-ring that is preventing the sensor from connecting to the radiator... which is grounded. So I will take that sensor assembly apart tomorrow and apply teflon tape a little better to each of the connections as recommended. I will have to come up with a different solution to ground the sensor. Out of light for the day. The biggest part is that the car is drivable now!
Here is the starting point: So as I got started, I decided I needed to double check the direction of flow. Good thing I did! I had planed for the flow to work opposite of what is actually happening. On my car, the hot oil from the transmission flows to the bottom of the radiator. and is pushed up to the top! This is acutally better due to the ease of access to the upper tubes. I did have to purchase a 17 mm flanged pipe wrench. The brass fittings are very soft! I also decided against the zip tie mounts. I didn't like how close the super cooler was to the condenser. I also was concerned about too much bending on the aluminum fins. So I used the erector set mounting brackets that came with the set. I was able to bracket the coolet to a nut on the corner of the head light, a nicely placed hole in the metal structure and stretched across to the right to catch the end of a condenser mounting screw. All together I had to purchase an additional 3 bolt sets and locking washers. two washers to fit the pre cut hole in the structure, and I robbed a 3/8 nut from the guage kit that I can replace later. The cooler is in a little crooked, but there is no worry for asthetics here. the grill will hide what is going on in that space. On the left, I have about 3 inches between the cooler and condenser. The other side matches up nicely.
The hose was run through a passage that was covered by two cowels that I removed. I will work to get those back in soon, however there are quite a few spots where the hose could rub more than I am comfortable. So I will be seeking some teflon mesh to protect the hose from wear. Flushed and checked for leaks. I used all 12 quarts I did put more in than I got out. that was to be expected since I added more capacity in hose and the cooler. The major connections are solid. The linkage for the temp sensor is leaking not too bad. it was recommended that I use teflon tape. I did not use it on all the connections, as I was trying to maintain a ground. But I later found I had a lot working against me. the fittings have an anodized coating that do not conduct. also in the largest fitting, where the nuts can swivel, I suspect there is an o-ring that is preventing the sensor from connecting to the radiator... which is grounded. So I will take that sensor assembly apart tomorrow and apply teflon tape a little better to each of the connections as recommended. I will have to come up with a different solution to ground the sensor. Out of light for the day. The biggest part is that the car is drivable now!
Beer and DIY Volvo Repairs are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
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lindy8_man
- Posts: 126
- Joined: 29 November 2009
- Year and Model: 1998 S90
- Location: San Diego
Yikes!
So stopping the leaks took some time... Teflon tape on the sensor connections (three spots). No flow of fluid, so teflon works here.
The connecter going into the rediator on the other hand was another story. The threads were too deep on the radiator to get the flange to meet up. The aluminum fitting began to break down as I torqued it down. So I went back and picked up a steel connector and used a washer with an o-ring built in. leaking stopped! Only lost about a half pint running around for the week!
Next to install and connect the guage.
So stopping the leaks took some time... Teflon tape on the sensor connections (three spots). No flow of fluid, so teflon works here.
The connecter going into the rediator on the other hand was another story. The threads were too deep on the radiator to get the flange to meet up. The aluminum fitting began to break down as I torqued it down. So I went back and picked up a steel connector and used a washer with an o-ring built in. leaking stopped! Only lost about a half pint running around for the week!
Next to install and connect the guage.
Beer and DIY Volvo Repairs are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
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CANVOLVOFAN
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 20 July 2017
- Year and Model: 1997 960
- Location: Toronto
Great job!
Can you share with me where did you find an all-metal cooling radiator for a 960?
I have been looking for one for a long time.
Can you share with me where did you find an all-metal cooling radiator for a 960?
I have been looking for one for a long time.
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