Where's the Suspension master? Experience w/ non-OEM brands

[grndslm]

I want a lot for a little. What are my options?

My mom hit a curb on the right side of my 850 last week. My precious is a 1997 w/ 276,000 miles and NO engine leaks and what appears to be NO more coolant leaks either after replacing the heater core.

I took the car to get a "free checkup" on the alignment before I decided to pay for the alignment. I pedaled [on a folding bike] over to Subway and back in about 5 min. The car was in the air. Yay! But nobody seemed to be working on the car at all, however. Other people were coming and going, but my car is just suspended there. I'm just watching it like a hawk.

The guy tells me that they've analyzed the vehicle. I say, "I'm ready!"

They tell me the LEFT inner tie-rod needs to be replaced and she'll be good to go. But I say, "It was the right side that hit the curb."

They then tell me that BOTH inner tie-rods need to be replaced, and they can straighten it up. I say, "That curb has done enough damage as it is to my wheels, ARE YOU SURE that I won't be throwing money away because some control arm or something is bent AFTER you do the alignment??"

They tell me that the computer would tell them something like that. Whatever, they finally decide to hook the machine up and this is what the wise computer has to say:

CIMG0285.jpg (58.85 KiB) Viewed 951 times

It looks like I need to replace the right strut and right shock

They didn't really go into much, beside telling me that "the steering had a little play when you shake the wheel". I attempted to shake it side to side, and they immediately told me.... NOT A LOT, JUST A LITTLE.

It sucks that I have to do ONLY right-side suspension components, no??? Instead of going stock, or even El Cheapo Advance Auto brand.... should I just get new suspension all the way around?? New springs?? New bushings??

Is it even that important to be able to adjust camber/caster on aftermarket Volvo struts, or should I just replace them and deal with only being able to adjust toe??

The right CV joint has been leaking transmission fluid *and* the outter boot (near the hub) is off.... so I might as well replace that, too.

Just sucks that this thing was flying straight about a week ago, and I know that the outter tie-rods were pretty solid when I checked under the hood a few days ago. Only the right anti-roll bar had a little play in it. I've never actually replaced INNER tie rods, tho... so I'll have to look into that a bit longer. But didn't feel any loose slack in the steering from underneath the car.

But where to start? What struts? OEM or Aftermarket? Just right side or BOTH??

Also, is it possible to adjust the rear toe with stock components??

[erikv11]

Rear toe is adjustable with the stock setup. That should be adjusted first when the alignment is done. Make sure the shop knows how to do it, it is not like the setup on Japanese or domestic cars. However be warned, it may be that the reason the rear toe is out of spec, is that rear delta links are worn out.

What is the mileage on your current front suspension parts? That matters when deciding whether to replace one or both.

I'd buy OEM (softer) or Bilstein TC (slightly stiffer) struts, your choice.

I'd also probably just replace both inner tie rods, and not with the cheapo ones they will wear out quickly.

[eld4au6]

I would buy this and replace both tie rods with oem. I say to go ahead and replace your struts top components unless you have recently replaced them. It would suck to replace your struts only to have a spring seat fail shortly after.

[855 moneypit]

I would do it all at once. Better to have everything new than to have to go back in and take one side apart to replace aging components.

[vjaneczko]

+1. I installed the FCP complete suspension kit (front & rear) only to have Firestone tell me the drivers inner tie rod was shot, which didn't come with the kit. They wanted $200 bucks to replace it(!) I did both inners on my own for a lot less. I never had done the inners either (heck, this was my first work on *any* suspension part), but comparing the new against the old told me that they were toast. Probably had close to 200K miles on them.

If you go with FCP, call them and double-check that all the parts are Sachs as they say in the linky. Also ask if the seats are the heavy duty versions, which you'll want.