Timing marks off!

eivashchenko · Post by **eivashchenko** » 10 Oct 2012, 18:49

Hi, I'm replacing my t-belt/water pump. I swapped out everything, and got the t-belt back on, but now when I get the crankshaft lined up, the camshaft on the left is 1 tooth too far counter-clockwise, and the the right is 3 or 4 teeth too far counter-clockwise!

Does anyone know how to fix this????

Post by **cn90** » 10 Oct 2012, 18:53

Tons of info in forum. You need to search for the answer.
Ozark Lee has a nice DIY called "140K maintenance".

The bottom line: remove the tensioner and re-compress it and restart the whole thing.

eivashchenko · Post by **eivashchenko** » 10 Oct 2012, 18:59

Thanks for the response. It's a hydraulic tensioner, so I wanted to make sure that everything was lined up before I pulled the pin on it. If I were to pull the pin, would that change anything timing wise?

Post by **erikv11** » 10 Oct 2012, 19:08

Pulling the pin will have a very minor effect on the belt, but not enough to correct what you are observing. Start over with aligning the marks and installing the belt, get it all set before you pull that pin.

eivashchenko · Post by **eivashchenko** » 10 Oct 2012, 19:10

I know that the crankshaft will rotate them all in unison, and the crankshaft can turn independently when the timing belt is off (though I learned it shouldn't be). What's the proper way to rotate the camshaft gears so that they are aligned?

eivashchenko · Post by **eivashchenko** » 10 Oct 2012, 19:12

Also, I heard the crankshaft should be set to TDC, but I looked and the notch is a little bit counter-clockwise from TDC, which should I align the crankshaft to?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Oct 2012, 19:15

Move the camshaft pulleys back to the timing marks and double check that the crankshaft mark is correct.

Just make sure the belt is taught, no slack, from the crankshaft pulley, across the idler roller, and onto the intake camshaft and that there is minimal play in the timing belt as it traverses the path between the intake camshaft and the exhaust camshaft. Slightly loose is more or less normal.

The belt doesn't care where it rides on the water-pump or the tensioner roller, neither does the car. Once you are satisfied that everything is lined up correctly go ahead and pull the grenade pin. From there rotate the engine by hand a couple of revolutions and re-check the timing marks. If they are off you will need to remove the tensioner and re-compress it. When compressing the tensioner belt tensioner you must do it very slowly. I use a big C clamp and give it about 1/4 turn every ten minutes or so. Save the old grenade pin to lock the tensioner back in place if you wind up off.

...Lee

Post by **erikv11** » 10 Oct 2012, 19:16

(1) remove belt
(2) put the crank on the mark. The mark is not at TDC, it is off TDC on purpose. That way all valves are protected from hitting the pistons.
(3) now that the crank is on the mark, the cams can safely rotate anywhere they need to. just rotate them into place by hand, or with a screwdriver through the holes in the pulley, or you can even buy a tool for it but it is hardly worth spending any extra money for a special tool.
(4) put the belt on, make sure they don't rotate while you are doing it or you start over
(5) check, double check, then pull the pin

eivashchenko · Post by **eivashchenko** » 10 Oct 2012, 21:56

awesome, i got it! Thanks guys!

quick follow up question: when you rotate the engine a few times afterwards, you rotate clockwise right?

eivashchenko · Post by **eivashchenko** » 10 Oct 2012, 22:09

wait, how do you do it by hand? do you mean using a 30mm and rotating the crankshaft pulley nut?