Timing marks off!

[cn90]

What brand of WP? Is it GMB, Hepu or Aisin or no-name?
You need to distinguish leak from weep hole vs leak from gasket.

My advice is to go to dealer and buy a Volvo gasket for a few dollars and put it in.
For some 20 years, I always add a thin smear of grease on both sides of the any gasket, this helps:
- the gasket stick to the mating surfaces
- seal any microscopic holes.

Unfortunately, you will have to remove the TB to replace the WP gasket. But now you are a pro when it comes to timing marks!

[erikv11]

Water pump gasket is likely but first I would check the little hose and nipple on the bottom of the coolant bottle. Much easier fix if that is the problem.

[eivashchenko]

Right on, i'll do that today!

[januwan]

I think I missed it but what was wrong in the first place with your timing and why do you think it happened . I am planning the same job in month or two.

[cn90]

I think I missed it but what was wrong in the first place with your timing and why do you think it happened . I am planning the same job in month or two.

If you spend time reading previous links (especially the DIY by Ozark Lee on 140K), you should not have problem.

If you want to have a trouble-free TB job, here are the tricks:

- Let's say you replace WP, Pulleys x 2 and the TB.

1- Before the TB is installed, verify that the:
a. The plate covering the Crank Sprocket needs to be removed first.
b. Crank Sprocket is dead on (good lighting is critical!!!)
c. Both Cam Sprockets are dead on.
d. Now start installing the TB on the Crank Sprocket first, it is a tight space so you may have difficulty getting it in.
But if you are patient and skilled, the TB will slip in (no need to remove the Crank Pulley).
BTW,
d. Then follow this sequence, Crank ---> Idler Pulley ---> Intake Cam ---> Exhaust Cam ---> WP ---> Tensioner Pulley.
TRICK: Use a bungee cord to keep the Tensioner Pulley tight while you install the Hydraulic Tensioner.

2- Now install Hydraulic Tensioner, but don't pull the pin yet!

3- Now add coolant and check for leak (don't start the engine!!!).
This check avoids subsequent TB removal (and compress the Hydraulic Tensioner!) to fix the leak.
Wipe the whole area clean to check for coolant leak.

4- Now verify that the Crank/Cam markings are dead on.

5- Now use the 30-mm socket + 1/2" breaker bar, slowly rotate the Crank CW 2 turns, and verify that the Crank/Cam markings are dead on.

6- Now release the pin of the Hydraulic Tensioner. Don't forget the Plastic Collar.

7- Don't install the TB cover yet.

8- Take a deep breath and fire up the engine LOL.
Check the marks again.

9- Then install TB Cover and Serpentine Belt etc.


If you follow these steps, you will never have problem.

[rspi]

I'm sorry but I would switch 5 and 6. I would NOT crank that motor with the belt loose, no tension on the roller. I'm afraid that it can jump a cam tooth with the belt loose.

[cn90]

I'm sorry but I would switch 5 and 6. I would NOT crank that motor with the belt loose, no tension on the roller. I'm afraid that it can jump a cam tooth with the belt loose.

Actually I made that mistake by pulling the pin first, TB was off, I had to remove the TB and re-compress the Hydraulic Tensioner, which was a pain!

That is why I listed #5 and #6 in that order.

Then the TB guru told me to install the Hydraulic Tensioner, even w/o removing the pin, it applies enough pressure on the TB. Good enough for manually turning the crank by hand. Plus the bungee cord is there to apply tension on the tensioner pulley.

[erikv11]

Who is this mysterious TB guru? Located on a mountaintop somewhere?

I have never tried to rotate the timing circuit before pulling the pin, I can see that it may work, interesting idea. But IMHO rspi is correct about a crucial point. Pulling the tensioner pin can easily change the marks by a tooth for a newbie, so for sure there needs to be a hand cycling of the whole thing *after* you pull the pin. But even if you disagree on that point, the last thing to do before starting it up MUST be to hand cycle a fully tensioned, ready-to-go installation. Never crank the starter before doing that.

[Roadrunner]

If you have all of the plugs out and you have this stopping, I would recheck the cam timing marks to be sure you did not set them backwords or used the wrong markers. For I am thinking you might have a vale hitting the piston top. if the vale cover is still off look to see if a piston is near tdc and is the cam pushing open one of the lifters to.

[cn90]

Who is this mysterious TB guru? Located on a mountaintop somewhere?

I have never tried to rotate the timing circuit before pulling the pin, I can see that it may work, interesting idea. But IMHO rspi is correct about a crucial point. Pulling the tensioner pin can easily change the marks by a tooth for a newbie, so for sure there needs to be a hand cycling of the whole thing *after* you pull the pin. But even if you disagree on that point, the last thing to do before starting it up MUST be to hand cycle a fully tensioned, ready-to-go installation. Never crank the starter before doing that.

OK,

Look if you don't believe me, then at next TB job, try this:
- Put TB on with bungee cord to keep tension on tensioner pulley.
- Install the Hydraulic Tensioner but don't pull the pin. You will notice that you have to push it in (it is a tight fit).
So this by itself provides some tension on the TB for a manual crank by hand.
- Turn the Crank (using 30-mm socket) by hand for 2 revolutions.
- Only after you are satisfied with the markings, then release the pin.

I have done this trick myself and I know it works, both the bungee cord and the HT (with the pin in place) provide enough tension on the TB. It won' skip any teeth.

Been there done that.

PS: Nothing wrong with doing it the way rspi and erikv said. Actually what these 2 gentlemen say is what the book says. It is fine. But if the teeth are off, don't kick yourself in the butt, just remove the HT and re-compress it. Now it is a pain in the butt.