Timing marks off!

[erikv11]

I actually do believe you, I just have never tried rotating for two cycles before the pin is pulled. I can see how that suggestion could save some people some time, it's a good idea.

Here is what I am trying to emphasize in last post: even if you do it that way, you still *must* turn the crank again *after* you pull the pin. It is trivial to take that small extra step, you should always do it. For example, maybe you somehow put the tensioner in wrong and it isn't tensioning the belt correctly. You don't want to learn that by starting up the car and potentially ruining the engine - learn it by cranking it over by hand *after* you pull the pin.

Always crank over the fully assembled setup by hand, make sure everything seems correct, before starting the car. Period.

[xHeart]

I think I missed it but what was wrong in the first place with your timing and why do you think it happened . I am planning the same job in month or two.

If you spend time reading previous links (especially the DIY by Ozark Lee on 140K), you should not have problem.

- Let's say you replace WP, Pulleys x 2 and the TB.

1- Before the TB is installed, verify that the:
a. The plate covering the Crank Sprocket needs to be removed first.
b. Crank Sprocket is dead on (good lighting is critical!!!)
c. Both Cam Sprockets are dead on.
d. Now start installing the TB on the Crank Sprocket first, it is a tight space so you may have difficulty getting it in.
But if you are patient and skilled, the TB will slip in (no need to remove the Crank Pulley).
BTW,
d. Then follow this sequence, Crank ---> Idler Pulley ---> Intake Cam ---> Exhaust Cam ---> WP ---> Tensioner Pulley.

...

I used Dr. Lee's instruction, taking input from all of you along the way. When it came to installing the belt, it will have a tooth amount loose at idler pulley, aka slack. After few trial and errors I found, if I bypass Idler Pully and go straight from Crank ---> Intake Cam and follow the route, I will have no slack at IdlerPulley. But then coming back to Idler Pulley required strength to slide the belt since no tooth was to engage.

So the method worked best for me was to wear the belt half around the path bypassing Idler Pulley, i.e., if the belt was 1" wide, route just 1/2". Now with little effort the belt would slide on to the IdlerPulley, a small surface area. At this point the routing is complete, now push/slide remaining 1/2" of the belt at each of the six routing points.

It was an awesome moment for me to find a simple adjustment to steps, and the belt fitting perfectly.

From there it was a song and dance...

Will I find Cam one tooth off next time I look...?