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960 timing belt change questions...

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
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kenneth_moorhead
Posts: 8
Joined: 2 September 2006
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960 timing belt change questions...

Post by kenneth_moorhead »

Well, it turns out that my engine squeal (previous post) is most likely the timing belt idler pulley. Take that cover off and the squeal jumps out smacks you! :-)

So... it is time to change both pulleys and the belt while I am there.

Now, before I yank the belt off I want to make really sure I have my point of alignment straight. The volvo instructions out there are really sparse!

Right now I have the timing cover off, but the engine is otherwise completely assembled and runs. It happens to have stopped really close to TDC, so the marks look nearly lined up.

I can clearly see the cam marks. The instructions I have say that the cams align with the notches found on the upper shield/shroud. So the passenger cam aligns about 45 degrees from vertical to the right, and the driver can 45 degrees to the left.

Now, the crank is a bit harder to see. However, there is line that appears to be on the serpentine drive pulley that might be it. It points straight up right now. But I am not sure if this is it...

So, the questions I have are:

* Do I have the cam alignments correct?
* Could anyone point me in the direction of the crank mark?
* When I find this crank mark, what does it align to?
* Once I have everything back together... if I move the engine by hand three or four times all the marks should line up on que. If they do, the engine is still time and it is safe to crank the motor. Is this correct?
* Finally, is there anything I am missing here? Or anything I might need to know?

TIA

Ken

MO-T5
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Joined: 6 March 2006
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Post by MO-T5 »

This is what I have done in the past on different vehicles. Pull the plugs so the engine is easier to rotate. Sounds like you have your system lined up with the marks but i would take a sharpie and make marks on the pulleys and head/block or whatever just to be sure and to make it easier to see. Rotating the assembly after you have it back together is a must. The rest is just R/R. Good luck.

cosmiclobster
Posts: 26
Joined: 12 July 2006
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Post by cosmiclobster »

O.K.
Having the timing marks 45 degrees off will not help you.
You should be able to put a wrench on one of the nuts holding the flywheel to turn the crankshaft to line up the timing marks (crank turns clockwise when standing in front of the car).
You may want to have your wife crank the engine for a second or two to (probably need to do this a few times!) try to get the timing marks lined up better.

With the cam timing marks lined up, you should see a very small V cut into the top of one of the teeth in the crankshaft pulley. Use a good flashlight! It is small and hard to see. This V is on the end of the crankshaft toothed belt pulley on the side that is closest to the engine. This V will line up with a protrusion that is cast into the block. The protrusion looks like the end of a flat screwdriver that sticks out and aims toward the pulley.
Only when this mark is lined up can you safely remove and change the pulleys or belt.

Once the tensioner pulley is removed, you need to put the tensioner in a vise to compress the spring. When compressed, you can insert an allen wrench in a small hole drilled for this purpose to keep it compressed while you reinstall it. Once installed and with everything back in place, pull the allen wrench out, the spring expands and you're good to go.

As for changing the belt, inspect it carefully. If it is in good shape with no worn teeth and there are no cracks or freys in the rubber, you may want to think about just re installing it instead of replacing it. To replace it you will need to remove the flywheel which requires a special tool.

Good luck

Be sure to look at my engine to see what happens when the timing belt is off by a tooth or two!!!

cosmiclobster.com/cars.html

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