Hi,
I have a 1986 240 DL sw. The power steering pump mounting bushings are shot, but the pump works fine. Is it possible to replace the bushings without taking the pump apart? Thanks.
Regards,
Steve
1986 240 power steering pump
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stephen_schachter
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 27 December 2012
- Year and Model: 1986 240 dl sw
- Location: Berkeley, ca
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billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
Yes! The pump can be lifted away from the bracket, being careful not to kink the hose.
Bill.
Yes! The pump can be lifted away from the bracket, being careful not to kink the hose.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
I just replaced *all* of my "engine accessory bushings" as part of my "restore the $100 vehicle" project. IPD sells both replacement rubber ones or (for like a $1.50 premium over the OE style ones) polyurethane ones. The latter are supposedly "good for life," or at the very least longer than the rubber ones. I needed 10 to replace all of them. If I remember correctly, the power steering pump and alternater need three, the AC compressor four.
Getting the old ones out and the new ones in were a pain, so hopefully I can save you an afternoon with how I did it.
To get the old ones out, use a drill and a large bit or spade bit that you don't really care about shredding. Once you destroy the middle, you should be able to knock the rest out by hand. Just be careful if your drill can produce a lot of torque.
To put the new ones in, I used some silicone grease (moly I think?) to lube the inside of the mount point and the outside of the new bushing. I also used a bolt that'd fit through the new bushing's hole, a couple washers larger than the bushing hole, and a nut to improvise a little press to force the new bushings into place. Basically I was able to take a box wrench to hold the nut in place and then turn the head of the bolt with a socket wrench until it had forced the new bushing into the hole. Then loosen the bolt and remove bolt/washers.
- Jack
Getting the old ones out and the new ones in were a pain, so hopefully I can save you an afternoon with how I did it.
To get the old ones out, use a drill and a large bit or spade bit that you don't really care about shredding. Once you destroy the middle, you should be able to knock the rest out by hand. Just be careful if your drill can produce a lot of torque.To put the new ones in, I used some silicone grease (moly I think?) to lube the inside of the mount point and the outside of the new bushing. I also used a bolt that'd fit through the new bushing's hole, a couple washers larger than the bushing hole, and a nut to improvise a little press to force the new bushings into place. Basically I was able to take a box wrench to hold the nut in place and then turn the head of the bolt with a socket wrench until it had forced the new bushing into the hole. Then loosen the bolt and remove bolt/washers.
- Jack
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