S70 - no power at high speed after many repairs made

BJ740 · Post by **BJ740** » 16 Dec 2012, 18:52

My 2000 S70 was running fine about July 2012 when it failed to pass inspection with check engine light on and about 9 codes. We proceeded to work on the car. Now it runs fine at reg speed but when you get to top speed like to pass a car, over 55, it loses power. Codes still showing are P0017, P0013, P0448, P0245 so won't pass inspection, check engine light on. (some of these are new, others are now gone). Work done is the following: Replaced Catalytic Converter (original eqpmt), Both oxygen sensors, camshaft position sensor, spark plugs. Removed and cleaned: Electronic Throttle Module, Crankcase Ventilation box and related PCV parts. Husband is ready to take it to the dealer or somewhere, he and our regular mechanic are out of ideas. 230,000+ miles on car. Too much time and money invested now to go back, got to fix it if possible. Any suggestions? Any ideas? What do we do now??? I'd love to have my S70 back on the road.

Post by **jblackburn** » 16 Dec 2012, 20:32

I have 2 ideas:

P0245 indicates a turbo wastegate solenoid, so apparently this car is either GLT or T5 model. Double-check all intercooler hoses and their connections to the metal pipes via the clamps from the turbo, to the intercooler, and back up to the throttle body. These often blow loose and will leave the car falling flat on its face.

2nd idea:
Since you've already replaced the cam position sensor and it's still throwing a code for it, I would say that this sounds like your timing belt may either need replacement or has somehow slipped a tooth or two. Next step would be to check to make sure the marks on the cams line up with those on the timing cover.

When did this car last have a timing belt replacement?

P0448 is just an evaporative emissions system code for the purge vent valve. Check hoses from the canister near the back rear wheel on up to the purge valve near the battery on the radiator shroud. It's in the lower left corner of the picture here, and those fat rubber hoses are the EVAP system hoses.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 16 Dec 2012, 20:33

Lets start with the codes:

P0017 is a camshaft position correlation code. Basically the cam position is not where the ECU thinks it should be.

P0013 a camshaft actuator error code.

Both P0013 and P0017 point to a problem with the exhaust camshaft variable valve timing valve. Sometime they just up and quit and other times they are trying to work but the oil passages are sludged up and blocked. You can check the electrical part of the valve with an Ohmmeter. The one on my desk reads 21 Ohms and I think it was working. If it reads a resistance in that neighborhood you need to remove the valve and checked for blocked oil passages both on the valve and on the hole in the cam cover. Buy a new gasket before your remove the valve, the part number is 30731212 .

P0448 is an evap purge valve code. The purge valve is located on the fan shroud toward the left hand side of the car. Make sure the connection is good and then check to see if it is clogged.

P0245 is a turbo control valve error. The control valve is located on the bottom half of the air cleaner housing and it has three vacuum lines running from it. Make sure it has good electrical connections and check the lines to the turbo to make sure they haven't fallen off or rotted.

Check with me before you buy any parts other than gaskets or lines, I have quite a few parts left over from a S70 that was a donor engine for my V70 XC. I sell the used parts cheap and they get cheaper the more my wife squawks about the stuff in the garage.

...Lee

BJ740 · Post by **BJ740** » 16 Dec 2012, 23:43

The timing belt was recently changed, this past year I think. The mechanic checked it during this repair process and said it was fine, nothing had slipped. My husband did find a hose loose after this round of codes so one of the codes might be fixed by now, I haven't rechecked the codes again. But we figured it didn't solve them all so we stopped. I will have my husband read these comments tomorrow and see if he can comment further on what he has done or might need still to do if he is willing to look at it again. Thanks. This model is a turbo and probably a GLT, not a T5 I know.

BJ740 · Post by **BJ740** » 28 Dec 2012, 19:19

Well we gave up and took it to a new mechanic at our old shop. He put it on the machines and analyzed it and determined it was a mass flow meter something or other, duh. We had replaced it recently with one from Autozone which looked the same but wasn't I guess so it was reading false codes. Replaced that with a volvo one and it ran ok, had power again, passed inspection and all was good. Two days later I'm driving it on a trip for Christmas, all excited to have my car back on the road after spending yet another $600 on it. It dies again, just stops as we are driving along! After a big towing bill to get home and a new alternator which costs another $500 total on it and so my husband has it running again. I drive it tonight and once again it dies, doing the same thing as it did the other day. Loses power, electricals go out, etc. We are thinking now battery. Alternator isn't charging or it's just been worn out from all this stuff. But it shows 12 v charging when you check it. Is there anything else I can replace on this car? Good grief! So tomorrow we'll try that and see if again we can get it running. I am so frustrated with my heretofore reliable Volvo... and still confused at it's multiple problems. What does a girl do???

CPUNeck · Post by **CPUNeck** » 28 Dec 2012, 22:19

BJ740 wrote:But it shows 12 v charging when you check it.

Well if the 12 volts you're seeing is while the car is idling, your alternator isn't working. This could be a blown fuse in your charging circuit, or the alternator. I know in these times, cost is imperative, but if the alternator is from one of the "auto" named stores, there's a high probability it was bad right out of the box. Even if your battery has a bad cell, you should read close to 14v (13.8-14.3) when the car is idling.

I was forced to buy an alternator from Autozone once, and TWO of the three they had on their shelf didn't charge out of the box! No it wasn't my Volvo... they'd never have three in stock. Personally, I have my OE starters and alternators rebuilt by local, reputable, shops anytime they need service.