1998 V70 with 68,000 miles, clutch is now slipping

karn1800 · Post by **karn1800** » 27 Dec 2007, 16:02

The clutch started slipping all of a sudden. It was perfectly normal, then a family member took it for a ride, came home and asked what was wrong with the clutch. There is no more free play in the pedal travel. Now it doesn't completely engage. Car is drivable, but if I accelerate more than lightly the clutch will slip.
Apparently the clutch is the type where the master cylinder is integral with the brake master and the slave cylinder is integral with the release bearing.
Any opinions as to what would cause this sudden behavior?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 27 Dec 2007, 16:41

Poor footwork...that "friend" of yours apparently burned your clutch up. You'll need to most likely replace it. I'm no expert on this but from what I've read, there's no real adjustment. JRL will probably chime in if I'm wrong. While you have the engine and transmission separated, it would be a good time to replace the rear main seal. Good luck!

Post by **JRL** » 27 Dec 2007, 20:51

MadeInJapan wrote:Poor footwork...that "friend" of yours apparently burned your clutch up. You'll need to most likely replace it. I'm no expert on this but from what I've read, there's no real adjustment. JRL will probably chime in if I'm wrong. While you have the engine and transmission separated, it would be a good time to replace the rear main seal. Good luck!

.
No adjustment period! (as with any modern clutch)
Agree with MIJ, bite the bullet and replace the clutch and throwout bearing. Check the slave cylinder and install a new rear main seal.
Apparently your friend was an incredibly poor manual driver.
I've seen them go bad at 50K if it's any consolation

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 28 Dec 2007, 08:39

I have a 1995 850 wagon with a 5 speed manual transmission. I had a rear main seal leak with 250,000 miles on the original clutch. When I fixed the seal I replaced the clutch,pressure plate ,throughout bearing just because I had it all apart. Some people will rest their foot on the clutch pedal when driving which is not good.
I agree with all the others,you'll need to replace the clutch,pressure plate through out bearing and I would also change the rear main seal at this time .

karn1800 · Post by **karn1800** » 06 Jan 2008, 19:14

Problem fixed. It was a broken pressure plate, something that rarely, if ever, happens under normal conditions.
You can look at a couple of pics here:

Thanks for all the replies.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 06 Jan 2008, 20:09

That is butt ugly for sure. I was going to replace my clutch last summer - not because it is bad but because it is original and at 196k miles and I figured it is just about done. I ran out of summer before I did it. I sure hope it lasts until spring. The only place I have to work on my cars is the driveway.

Did you replace the RMS while your were there?

...Lee

karn1800 · Post by **karn1800** » 09 Jan 2008, 16:21

Yup, RMS, pressure plate, disc, slave cylinder/release bearing, pilot bearing and resurfaced the flywheel.
Not having an extra car and seeing this is my first fwd Volvo, I had a local shop that specializes in Volvos do the work. Really wanted to tear into it myself but that meant the car would have been out of commission for days or weeks while I found the time to do it. And the car does me no good if I can't drive it.
So, I swallowed my pride, emptied out the savings and got it fixed.
Now I smile as I drive down the road with a working clutch.

angolavolvo · Post by **angolavolvo** » 03 Jan 2013, 11:47

Having the same problem but over 190,000 mi. Anyone have any idea what replacement labor should be? I'm getting between $1000 to $1500. Should I keep looking?

Post by **cn90** » 03 Jan 2013, 11:52

6-7h job labor.

Post by **JRL** » 03 Jan 2013, 14:52

A bit more
Flat rate is about 8-9 hours for a FWD
Job can be done from between 5 and 7 depending on how good your mechanic is and how fast he works.
Unless you make a deal with someone, usually flat rate applies