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New member introduction to MVS...

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jpr0204
Posts: 242
Joined: 8 January 2013
Year and Model: 12' XC70 Prem. Plus
Location: Easton, PA

New member introduction to MVS...

Post by jpr0204 »

Hi everyone,

I am a new member to MVS and would like to introduce myself to the MVS community and provide a brief background about myself. My name is Joe and I reside in the Lehigh Valley in PA. I recently joined the MVS community as of yesterday but I have been viewing the site since 12/20/12. I graduated from high school back in 2003. I then attended Universal Technical Institute in Houston, TX where I graduated in 2004 with a degree in Automotive Technology. After graduating from UTI, I then went on to attend the UTI Manufacturer Specific Advanced Traing program known as Volvo SAFE (Service Automotive Factory Education) program in Glendale Heights, IL which is a 16 week post-graduate program for dealing with all aspects of Volvo cars.

I enjoy working together with other people and helping one another with their vehicle problems. It's also nice to get suggestions and advice from others as well as a second or third pair of eyes are usually better than one. LOL...

My girlfriend and I recently picked up a 2000 Volvo V70 X/C SE Cross Country Wagon back on 12/20/12. We feel we got a resonable deal on it. I picked it up from the 2nd owner who was an elderly gentleman for $3,000. The mileage on the clock was 101,000. According to the maintenance records on the vehicle the Vehicle was always serviced at Burdumy Volvo in Huntington Valley, PA at Keystone Volvo in Byrwin, PA and at Volvo of Ft. Washington. Last repair by the 2nd owner was back in June 2012 At 95K miles where of Volvo of Ft. Washington replaced the ETS / TBI Assembly. (One thing I shouldn't to worry about for a little while anyway. ;) Within the first week of ownership I put about $1,200 into it which I knew I was going to due so for the 105K mile service as well as a new set of Khumo 205/55/R16 tires and a 4-wheel alignment. Upon purchasing the vehicle I have the done the following to it for maintenance and repairs: R&R engine oil dipstick (the handle broke), R&R timing belt, timing belt idler pulley, timing belt tensioner, and water pump (for maintenance), (cam and cranks seals were dry so I let them be for the time being), R&R air filter (looked like it was in there for a little bit but not horrible), fuel filter (was original, still had undercoating on it), cabin air filter (looked like it was in there for bit more than it should have been), serpentine belt, oil filter, 10W-30 motor oil, thermostat, thermostat gasket (for maintenance), rear upper motor mount (was broken), front right lower motor mount (was broken), front brake hoses (were stiff), front right outer tie rod end (had a little more play than I would've liked), rear parking brake cables (they were rusted up and needed to replace them for inspection), heater core, and heater core o-rings (the heater core wasn't leaking yet, I pulled up the carpet to verify this but you could smell a sweet smell coming through the vents). I also changed the front bevel gear oil, changed the gear oil in the rear differential, change the automatic transmission fluid (just did a drain and refill 2 times with 3.5 quarts of Dex III), changed the power steering fluid, flushed the brake fluid, changed the coolant, and replaced the shifter bulb for the center console. The last owner also told me the "check engine" light was on and the his mechanic said the car was running "too rich". I hooked up my scanner to it and found 2 codes stored in memory, a P1174 (Manufacturer Specific Air/Fuel Metering Device) and a P1172 (Fuel System Too Rich on Bank 2). After looking at some live data and performing some tests I came to the conlcusion that the Mass Air Flow Sensor had flatlined. So, I purchased a Cardone reman. MAF sensor, threw it in, reset the light, verified that it was working properly, drove it about 600 miles since and no light since.

If anybody needs a hand with anything or would just like to drop a line please feel free. I look forward to sharing many things within the MVS community.

Later...
Current Vehicles:
20' Kia Sorento (Lease) (Fiancé's car) Currently at 19,500 miles
12' Volvo XC70 Premier Plus AWD Currently at 95K miles
12' Yamaha V-Star 950 EFI Tourer (My daily summer crusier) Currently at 5K miles
04' Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic (Fiancé's daily summer cruiser) Currently at 16K miles.

jblackburn
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Posts: 14043
Joined: 8 June 2008
Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
Location: Alexandria, VA
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Post by jblackburn »

Welcome sir, and congrats on fixing your first problem with your new Volvo! Hopefully it won't be too much of a problem child for you :)
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

jpr0204
Posts: 242
Joined: 8 January 2013
Year and Model: 12' XC70 Prem. Plus
Location: Easton, PA

Post by jpr0204 »

Thank you sir. I can only hope that she'll be trouble free for a little while anyway now that I did some upkeep on her. Btw, I just got done reading your PCV system cleaning thread. A VERY nice write up indeed. Something I would definately like to take care of in about another two months once it's starts getting a little bit warmer outside. A little chilly these days to be doing this right now.
Current Vehicles:
20' Kia Sorento (Lease) (Fiancé's car) Currently at 19,500 miles
12' Volvo XC70 Premier Plus AWD Currently at 95K miles
12' Yamaha V-Star 950 EFI Tourer (My daily summer crusier) Currently at 5K miles
04' Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic (Fiancé's daily summer cruiser) Currently at 16K miles.

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matthew1
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Posts: 14493
Joined: 14 September 2002
Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
Location: Denver, Colorado, US
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Post by matthew1 »

Joe, welcome. Thanks for the detailed post. It's always good to read what formally trained car guys recommend, how they troubleshoot, etc.

a Cardone reman. MAF sensor

If you have trouble with idle/acceleration/MPG or codes related to these things in the future, this is the first place I'd look. MAFs are probably the #1 thing Volvos are picky about when it comes to blue box vs. 3rd-party aftermarket.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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jpr0204
Posts: 242
Joined: 8 January 2013
Year and Model: 12' XC70 Prem. Plus
Location: Easton, PA

Post by jpr0204 »

Thank you for the kind words and welcome Matt.

I totally agree with your blue box parts comment. However, while trying to recouperate from the holidays and and making sure Santa got my little one all that she wanted, $58.00 for the Cardone Reman. versus almost more than double for the Bosch was just a little more appealing. LOL!

Another main reason for replacing the MAF was due to the fact that upon a cold start for the first start of the day, the car wold always start immediately, but after a second of running it would stall. Then when you went to restart it would have an extended crank for a while before it fired again almost as if it was loading up on fuel due to a faulty MAF sensor. Once I replaced it the light and all associated problems disappered as well.

If there is ever anything I can do to assist please don't hesitate to ask...

Joe
Current Vehicles:
20' Kia Sorento (Lease) (Fiancé's car) Currently at 19,500 miles
12' Volvo XC70 Premier Plus AWD Currently at 95K miles
12' Yamaha V-Star 950 EFI Tourer (My daily summer crusier) Currently at 5K miles
04' Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic (Fiancé's daily summer cruiser) Currently at 16K miles.

pbrown1972
Posts: 1
Joined: 11 January 2013
Year and Model: C70 2004
Location: Illinois

Post by pbrown1972 »

Hello to All. I am new to the forum. I have had 3 Volvo's over the years. I have had a 1997 850GLT, a 2002 S60, and presently a 2004 C70. I loved the first 2 Volvo's, but this last car has been a problem child. I was hoping for some help. 4 months ago I replaced the Battery and Alternator. 3 weeks ago, new problem... anytime the car sits for 3 days or more, the battery is completely drained. It starts right up on a jump. I have had the battery and alternator tested, and they both come back fine. Any ideas?

I really could use some help.

Thanks!
Paul

jpr0204
Posts: 242
Joined: 8 January 2013
Year and Model: 12' XC70 Prem. Plus
Location: Easton, PA

Post by jpr0204 »

Hi Paul and welcome to the forum,

Obviously with looking at the car in person and hooking up some diag. equipment, it's a stab in the dark.

From what you describe though based on the new alternator and battery and the fact that the battery goes stone cold dead after 3 days of sitting it sounds like you MAY have what is called a "parasitic current drain."

A parasitic current drain is where something on or in the vehicle stays "powered up/on" even though the the vehicle is turned off and all accessories are turned off. (I.E., the light inside the glove compartment stays on even though the glove compartment door is closed... or a computer module such as the PCM, TCM, etc... stays "awake or powered up" even though the cars is powered off.

To check for a parasitic draw, follow the below steps and be careful you don't fry your voltmeter.

1.If you don't have one, get a digital multimeter capable of reading up to 10 amps DC. I know Sears sells them for $50 or less.

2.Your battery should have a full charge for this test - it won't work if your battery is dead.

3.Check to make sure ALL loads are turned off. Unplug anything you may have plugged into the cigarette lighter. Remove your keys from the ignition. Close all doors so all lights are off.

4.Disconnect the positive (Red) cable that goes from the battery down to the starter.

5. Before you start, make sure your meter is set to the 10 amp DC range. Some meters have a special connector for the red probe when you are reading current.

6.Connect the positive probe to the battery.

7.Connect the negative probe to the red cable that is still connected to the vehicle. Make sure this cable and your probe do not touch ground.

8.If there is a severe current draw (more than 10 amps) it will either pop a fuse in your meter or destroy it outright. That's why you need to test for a short, otherwise, your meter should now be reading the current drain on your battery.

9.If your vehicle has an alarm system or remote locks, the current draw may be around 2-3 amps for a few minutes after you last close the door. This is normal. If you're not sure, wait at least 20 minutes after you last open or close a door before you take a reading.

10.If everything is normal, you will read less than 35 milliamps, or .035 amps. If the current drain is higher than that, you need to find out what is draining your batteries: You can start by pulling fuses until the load goes away. If that doesn't reduce the draw, you need to look for a wire that is corroded or frayed

I put this together based on my own know-how, some friends, as well as a few other sources on the internet.

Hopefully this may help lead you in the right direction.

Good luck...
Current Vehicles:
20' Kia Sorento (Lease) (Fiancé's car) Currently at 19,500 miles
12' Volvo XC70 Premier Plus AWD Currently at 95K miles
12' Yamaha V-Star 950 EFI Tourer (My daily summer crusier) Currently at 5K miles
04' Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic (Fiancé's daily summer cruiser) Currently at 16K miles.

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matthew1
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Joined: 14 September 2002
Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
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Post by matthew1 »

Search for "parasitic draw" here. I'm on a phone so searching is a PIA. You'll have to track down what's pulling current when off.

If you're lucky, it'll be a light that you can see when it's dark.

I had an '04 V70 R (search) and it was more needy than my 850, which is less dependent on me to run. Some people have nothing but love for P2 (search) Volvos. Some, the opposite.

So far, reports on P3 reliability are very good- 2008+ XC70 and other models.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!

1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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User avatar
matthew1
Site Admin
Posts: 14493
Joined: 14 September 2002
Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
Location: Denver, Colorado, US
Has thanked: 2660 times
Been thanked: 1254 times
Contact:

Post by matthew1 »

D'oh, JPR beat me to it, by 4 hours. My phone didn't refresh the topic.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!

1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

How to Thank someone for their post

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