Login Register

ETS warning light - 2000 s70 turbo

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

Post Reply
edd821
Posts: 21
Joined: 12 October 2010
Year and Model: S70 GLT/SE, 2000
Location: Maryland

ETS warning light - 2000 s70 turbo

Post by edd821 »

My ETS light came on this evening - I've read a lot about this. Also, my check engine light has been on for a few months - could these be related? I've also read that you can spray cleaner into the intake hose without taking the module out. Any other suggestions besides bearing the cost of replacing the throttle control module.

precopster
Posts: 7543
Joined: 21 August 2010
Year and Model: Lots
Location: Melbourne Australia
Has thanked: 8 times
Been thanked: 128 times

Post by precopster »

Brake pedal position sensor can cause the ETS light. part number is 9441116. (fits on the front of brake booster)

Engine light can be any number of problems unrelated to ETM.

Have the car scanned FIRST by a Volvo independant mechanic before spending your hard-earned money.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

edd821
Posts: 21
Joined: 12 October 2010
Year and Model: S70 GLT/SE, 2000
Location: Maryland

Post by edd821 »

Really? The brake pedal sensor can affedct the electronic throttle system?

precopster
Posts: 7543
Joined: 21 August 2010
Year and Model: Lots
Location: Melbourne Australia
Has thanked: 8 times
Been thanked: 128 times

Post by precopster »

Yep!!

Just go and unplug that sensor and watch the ETS light glow.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

edd821
Posts: 21
Joined: 12 October 2010
Year and Model: S70 GLT/SE, 2000
Location: Maryland

Post by edd821 »

I'll give it a look - thanks so much for your input. BTW, where is it located?

precopster
Posts: 7543
Joined: 21 August 2010
Year and Model: Lots
Location: Melbourne Australia
Has thanked: 8 times
Been thanked: 128 times

Post by precopster »

Next to BMC (brake master cylinder) Two pin connector.

Don't release the snap ring from the base unless you have released vacuum from the booster by pressing brake multiple times.

There's nothing really to see. You need to have the car scanned. The pedal position sensor may be one of the DTCs.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

edd821
Posts: 21
Joined: 12 October 2010
Year and Model: S70 GLT/SE, 2000
Location: Maryland

Post by edd821 »

Okay, thanks precopster!

precopster
Posts: 7543
Joined: 21 August 2010
Year and Model: Lots
Location: Melbourne Australia
Has thanked: 8 times
Been thanked: 128 times

Post by precopster »

I just removed and replaced an ETM from a 2000 s70 turbo today. Wow that is some bad access!!

If you're going to clean or remove the ETM mark the ETM relationship with the manifold with texter or pencil to make placing it back on easier. I removed it with the hose attached and removed the cooling fan.

Use a new gasket when replacing. Making sure the gasket is attached when re-fitting is quite a chore. I locked one of the bolts in place because the hose restricts access to one of the 4 holes once it's fitted. To locate the gasket I placed thread tape on the upper shoulder of another bolt so it sticks out of the ETM and prevents the gasket from sliding off.
Last edited by precopster on 17 Jan 2013, 16:32, edited 1 time in total.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

neworleans
Posts: 485
Joined: 7 April 2009
Year and Model: 2007 S60R
Location: new orleans

Post by neworleans »

Did cleaning the etm resolve your problem?

Gubernaculum
Posts: 93
Joined: 22 January 2012
Year and Model: '00 s70
Location: SC

Post by Gubernaculum »

I recently did a time-consuming run-around with diagnosing and replacing my ETM on my 2000 s70. I ended up doing the Xemodex. If you know yours "should" be going bad soon if not currently, it may be worth the risk to you to just replace it rather than pay someone $50 to $120 to read your codes and tell you to replace it. You didn't give a whole lot of details about your situation, car, and symptoms, but if I were you I'd mentally prepare for that $600 expense. At least it was a fairly easy job and worked great.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post