91' 240 valve job

timmyc · Post by **timmyc** » 22 Jan 2013, 13:21

I have to do a valve job on my parents 240. I just finished doing my 854 and was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on what I should be replacing along the way.

Hoping that this will be easier than the 850.

Thanks in advance!

Just found everything I need through FCP Groton and was wondering if anyone knows what all those valve shims are for and how the heck are they used?

timmyc · Post by **timmyc** » 28 Jan 2013, 15:55

Got everything off and ready for the machine shop.

Now, I noticed that only the exhaust valves had oil seals on them. Should I be adding them to the intake valves or just leave it the way that it was?

Also wanted to say that I made the crankshaft pulley holder tool and can lend it out to anyone in my area.

Post by **billofdurham** » 29 Jan 2013, 12:46

I noticed that only the exhaust valves had oil seals on them.

My book says only the intake valves have seals on them.

To answer your previous question the shims are to adjust the valve clearances. A fiddly job but somebody has to do it. The attached shows how to do it.

240 valve adjustment.pdf: (334.16 KiB) Downloaded 619 times

If you need more excerpts from the book let me know.

Bill.

timmyc · Post by **timmyc** » 29 Jan 2013, 13:37

Thanks, Bill. I was wondering if anyone was going to reply. This forum is no where near as popular as the 850!

I must be wrong on the seals. But should they only be on those? And are those little umbrella caps on top of the valve stem imperative to have on there?

And the pdf shows a turbo motor. My parents is not. Is this still applicable?

Thanks again. I had a feeling that you may be the one replying to my post.

Post by **billofdurham** » 30 Jan 2013, 12:45

The .pdf is for both 2.3L 4cyl and 2.3L 4cyl turbo engines as the heads are the same on both.

The intake valves only need the oil seal. I have checked all of my books and can find no mention of putting umbrellas on the valves. Does it rain that much where you live?

Only joking on that one. Are you referring to the washers (#18) on the attached? They are essential.

240 cylinder head B230F..pdf: (475.54 KiB) Downloaded 344 times

The oil seals are listed at part #17.

Bill.

timmyc · Post by **timmyc** » 30 Jan 2013, 15:03

Good one, Bill. Umbrellas.........

Okay. Will only install seals on intake valves.

And no. It's #21 that I am referring to. The valve cotter? It looked to me like a bushing on the end of the valve that rested on the follower. No sure to where to find them to purchase. Likely dealer item. Will let you know.

Again, thanks for the help.

Post by **billofdurham** » 30 Jan 2013, 15:26

Valve cotters are available at our sponsors eEuroparts and VolvoCountryParts. They are also available at FCPGroton.

Bill.

timmyc · Post by **timmyc** » 30 Jan 2013, 17:52

Man, I'm sorry. I was wrong on the number. It was #22 and it is the valve absorber. I already have all of my parts coming so I will have to go to the dealer.

Isn't FCP a sponsor as well?

Will let you know how it goes if you are interested.

Thanks, Bill.

Post by **billofdurham** » 31 Jan 2013, 11:32

The three suppliers mentioned have that part and I think it will be at a lower price than the dealer.

When I used the term 'sponsor' I meant those who have a link at the top of the forum. FCP did have a link but it is always worth the time taken to check their site as the prices are still very good.

Will let you know how it goes if you are interested.

We are always interested in how a job goes. With an update we can show others how easy, or difficult, a job is.

Bill.

timmyc · Post by **timmyc** » 21 Feb 2013, 10:30

Yes, it has been a while, but I can claim success. For the most part.

This is my parents car, so I am not sure how the thing ran before I got in to it. After doing all sorts of maintenance while doing the valve job it is back on the road. But, it seems to have a weird miss. Mostly while it is idling. I gapped the plugs at .30. I know they are supposed to be at .28 but my gauge doesn't have that increment and I read that it should be fine. There are no codes and everything is new. Cap, rotor, wires and plugs ( Bosch Super Copper ). I triple checked timing marks before it went back together, so I am quite sure timing is fine. Although I checked the timing mark on the damper and, I hate to admit this, I am not sure if the mark shows btdc to the right of 0 or to the left because if it is to the right, it is running 10 atdc. But I can't believe that it is as it would not be running this well. Any help regarding timing marks would be appreciated.

So with that, the car is in fine running condition. Did belts, stage 0, tranny flush, got rid of the pesky CEL which was a hole in the EGR hard line coming from the exhaust manifold, fuel filter, basically most all maintenance. With 206700 on the clock, it runs damn nice!