Hello,
I was checking my oil dipstick while I had my car on idle and saw white smoke coming out of the dipstick pipe. Did some further research and found out this is a common problem on Volvo's and I may need to replace my PCV system. Yesterday, to my surprise, I noticed that the upper breather hose from the PCV Box to the engine (near oil cap) is completely broken. Did more research and it seems that the 2007 Volvo's had the bad design with a ribbed design hose.
If I replace the PCV system, I am looking at atleast $700 from an Indy. Before I venture out and get it replace, do you guys think that the white smoke is coming of out the dipstick because the upper breather pipe is disconnected? My fear is that I have been driving like this for atleast 10,000 miles. As I put some light into the engine, I could see that oil must have leaked out at some point (serious oil deposits near and under carrige) but no oil leaks since 10,000 miles. I change my oil with full synthetic every 3000 miles and notice it is usually black.
2007 Volvo S60 2.5T Upper Breather PCV Hose Broken
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volvos60turbo
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 6 February 2013
- Year and Model: 2007 S60
- Location: Louisiana
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2007 Volvo S60 2.5T Upper Breather PCV Hose Broken
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chrism
- Posts: 1307
- Joined: 28 January 2009
- Year and Model: S80 / 2005
- Location: Atlanta, GA
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I just went through this last weekend with my wife's S80 - same 2.5T engine. A few months before, I also noticed the same broken breather hose and replaced it. Then a couple weeks ago I noticed the white creamy residue on the dip stick which is indicative of moisture in the crankcase. I found that the PCV system was clogged somewhere - I didn't know where - and it wasn't purging the air from the crankcase.
It's semi-major surgery to do a complete PCV service, hence the $700 estimate. It took me about 12 hours, but I'm a bit slower than most people. You can, however, replace just the broken breather hose without removing the intake manifold (which is required to replace some of the other PCV hoses). If you just remove the throttle body (4 bolts) you can get to where the breather connects to the breather box. It's a good opportunity to clean the throttle body which should be done periodically anyway. Once you've replaced the breather hose, you may just find that you've got the PCV system back to pulling a vacuum on the crankcase and buy yourself some time until you need a complete PCV service.
How many miles do you have on the car?
It's semi-major surgery to do a complete PCV service, hence the $700 estimate. It took me about 12 hours, but I'm a bit slower than most people. You can, however, replace just the broken breather hose without removing the intake manifold (which is required to replace some of the other PCV hoses). If you just remove the throttle body (4 bolts) you can get to where the breather connects to the breather box. It's a good opportunity to clean the throttle body which should be done periodically anyway. Once you've replaced the breather hose, you may just find that you've got the PCV system back to pulling a vacuum on the crankcase and buy yourself some time until you need a complete PCV service.
How many miles do you have on the car?
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volvos60turbo
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 6 February 2013
- Year and Model: 2007 S60
- Location: Louisiana
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Thank you for the insights!
I have about 115K miles on the car. I bought it used at about 100K but since its an 07, I am assuming most of the prior miles are highway.
Either way, the previous owner did not change oil often, and in the last two years, I have been trying to change oil every 2,500 miles just clean out the engine bit by bit.
I have about 115K miles on the car. I bought it used at about 100K but since its an 07, I am assuming most of the prior miles are highway.
Either way, the previous owner did not change oil often, and in the last two years, I have been trying to change oil every 2,500 miles just clean out the engine bit by bit.
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chrism
- Posts: 1307
- Joined: 28 January 2009
- Year and Model: S80 / 2005
- Location: Atlanta, GA
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My wife's car had about 155,000 on it before I had to dig into it to find where the PCV system was clogged. However that breather hose ruptured at somewhere around 115,000-125,000. For the longest time we could smell a sort of "hot oil" smell when sitting and idling but I could never find the cause until lately when I found the ruptured hose. As I recall, it's about $25 at the dealer and the replacement version is a slightly different design - more of just a regular looking hose without the accordion look. And yes, it does cause an oily mess down the front side of the engine when it's leaking oil-saturated air.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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kkostya777
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 17 April 2011
- Year and Model: 2005 S60 2.5T
- Location: Austin, TX
my 2005 s60 has the same upper PCV hose broken. I posted here a while ago about the breather box replacement but never got any instructions from anyone for my particular car. Can someone post some links or instructions on how to clean the breather box system and what parts are required to buy/special tools required. Thank you!
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mikealder
- Posts: 817
- Joined: 25 October 2009
- Year and Model: V70 2000
- Location: Blackpool
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I completed the PCV clean out/ pipe replacement last week on a mates S60, not a difficult job but time consuming, about three hours to strip it all down and clean everything up, about 2,5 Hours to rebuild it.
I left the blow-by pipe that runs from the PCV tank back to the intake alone as this was clear, washed the PCV tank out with carb cleaner and reused it, new hose for the top of the engine to PCV tank and two replacement short hoses that go from the tank back to the engine block, new inlet manifold gasket and new thermostat housing to engine gasket, total cost £38 (aprox $55).
1/ Remove air pipe from turbo to intercooler.
2/ Remove air pipe from intercooler to electronic throttle motor.
3/ Release other vac hoses from inlet manifold
4/ Remove ETM (optional but worth taking off to clean out)
5/ To gain access to the lower left inlet manifold bolt is a challenge, you might get it with a 3/8 wobble extension fitted with a 10MM socket, I ended up removing the thermostat housing as you can't get the bolt out to change the gasket!
6/ Again on the lower left of the inlet manifold is a 17MM head "Banjo Bolt" this needs to come out, take great care not to apply too much pressure to the pipe connected to the Banjo bolt as it is costly to replace that part.
7/ Remove bolt securing the dipstick to the inlet manifold.
8/ Loosen the three bolts securing the lower part of the intake manifold, you don't need to remove these as the manifold has slots in.
9/ Remove the bolts securing the upper part of the intake manifold.
10/ Lift the manifold up and remove from the engine bay.
11/ Stuff rags/ wipes into each engine intake port as you don't want crud dropping in to the engine.
12/ You can now get at the PCV tank, take a picture of it with your phone then you will get the pipes back on in the correct places, remove all the clips securing the pipes to the PCV tank.
13/ Remove the two 10MM bolts securing the PCV tank to the engine front face.
14/ Remove the tank from the engine, if clogged up replace, if just a little sludge/ mayo in it wash it out with petrol, paraffin or carb cleaner.
15/ Connect a 5/8" rubber hose to the lower port on the engine that the PCV tank connects to then try to blow through it, if you can hear bubbling (take the oil filler cap off as it makes hearing the bubbling easier) then you know the port is clear. If you can't blow through it the port is blocked and needs to be cleared out BEFORE you start to rebuild the PCV system.
To fit the new inlet manifold gasket you have to remove all the bolts, the one close to the thermostat housing is slightly too long and to get the bolt out involves removing the thermostat housing (T45 bit needed for this), poor design to be honest, if the bolt was 3MM shorter in length you wouldn't have to take the stat housing off!
Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse of taking it to bits, just remember to remove all the rags you stuffed in to the intake ports on the engine in step 11 - Quite a lengthy job but an easy one to be honest, you will also need a selection of Jubilee Clips to replace all the Volvo crimp clips that you will have destroyed removing them - Mike
I left the blow-by pipe that runs from the PCV tank back to the intake alone as this was clear, washed the PCV tank out with carb cleaner and reused it, new hose for the top of the engine to PCV tank and two replacement short hoses that go from the tank back to the engine block, new inlet manifold gasket and new thermostat housing to engine gasket, total cost £38 (aprox $55).
1/ Remove air pipe from turbo to intercooler.
2/ Remove air pipe from intercooler to electronic throttle motor.
3/ Release other vac hoses from inlet manifold
4/ Remove ETM (optional but worth taking off to clean out)
5/ To gain access to the lower left inlet manifold bolt is a challenge, you might get it with a 3/8 wobble extension fitted with a 10MM socket, I ended up removing the thermostat housing as you can't get the bolt out to change the gasket!
6/ Again on the lower left of the inlet manifold is a 17MM head "Banjo Bolt" this needs to come out, take great care not to apply too much pressure to the pipe connected to the Banjo bolt as it is costly to replace that part.
7/ Remove bolt securing the dipstick to the inlet manifold.
8/ Loosen the three bolts securing the lower part of the intake manifold, you don't need to remove these as the manifold has slots in.
9/ Remove the bolts securing the upper part of the intake manifold.
10/ Lift the manifold up and remove from the engine bay.
11/ Stuff rags/ wipes into each engine intake port as you don't want crud dropping in to the engine.
12/ You can now get at the PCV tank, take a picture of it with your phone then you will get the pipes back on in the correct places, remove all the clips securing the pipes to the PCV tank.
13/ Remove the two 10MM bolts securing the PCV tank to the engine front face.
14/ Remove the tank from the engine, if clogged up replace, if just a little sludge/ mayo in it wash it out with petrol, paraffin or carb cleaner.
15/ Connect a 5/8" rubber hose to the lower port on the engine that the PCV tank connects to then try to blow through it, if you can hear bubbling (take the oil filler cap off as it makes hearing the bubbling easier) then you know the port is clear. If you can't blow through it the port is blocked and needs to be cleared out BEFORE you start to rebuild the PCV system.
To fit the new inlet manifold gasket you have to remove all the bolts, the one close to the thermostat housing is slightly too long and to get the bolt out involves removing the thermostat housing (T45 bit needed for this), poor design to be honest, if the bolt was 3MM shorter in length you wouldn't have to take the stat housing off!
Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse of taking it to bits, just remember to remove all the rags you stuffed in to the intake ports on the engine in step 11 - Quite a lengthy job but an easy one to be honest, you will also need a selection of Jubilee Clips to replace all the Volvo crimp clips that you will have destroyed removing them - Mike
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volvos80forlife
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 3 July 2012
- Year and Model: 2006 S80
- Location: Houston, TX
ya same thing happened to my hose. It broke off 
can i just replace the hose instead of removing the whole thing??
can i just replace the hose instead of removing the whole thing??- Attachments
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2005 V70 2.5T
I think this the same engine as. A couple of tips:
- that annoying and hard to get at lower left intake manifold bold - use an extension on a 1/4 drive socket with a wobble head and 10mm. you only need to turn it about 90-180 degrees, the manifold is notched. this bolt will be blocked from removal by the thermostat housing as mentioned. instead of removing the thermostat i just nipped the new intake manifold gasket to get over that bolt.
- on this 05 and up the little elbow hose that goes from the top of the trap to the front of the block is $80-100+. be careful with it. mine was fused and in removal it was destroyed. had i checked the cost first i would have cleaned it without removing it. for '04 and propr it is $10 part.
- i would blow gently to hear bubbles, you don't want to dislodge gunk and put it in your pan.
I think this the same engine as. A couple of tips:
- that annoying and hard to get at lower left intake manifold bold - use an extension on a 1/4 drive socket with a wobble head and 10mm. you only need to turn it about 90-180 degrees, the manifold is notched. this bolt will be blocked from removal by the thermostat housing as mentioned. instead of removing the thermostat i just nipped the new intake manifold gasket to get over that bolt.
- on this 05 and up the little elbow hose that goes from the top of the trap to the front of the block is $80-100+. be careful with it. mine was fused and in removal it was destroyed. had i checked the cost first i would have cleaned it without removing it. for '04 and propr it is $10 part.
- i would blow gently to hear bubbles, you don't want to dislodge gunk and put it in your pan.
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