Hi, new member but longtime lurker, and very appreciative of all I've learned here.
My car: 2000 S80 T6, 124K miles. In the 35,000 miles I've owned it, it's been perfect, so for the $6500 I paid, I'm happy with it.
My issue: I recently had a Check Engine light that coded out to be ECM290A, P1152 - which is either a permanent or intermittent fault of the front O2 sensor in Bank 2.
My first question: After having this fault 'cleared' by the mechanic and estimated repair at over $1K to replace both front sensors - is it possible that this truly is an 'intermittent fault' and that I can continue driving with the possibility it won't throw a code again and/or not ruin my converter in the process? i.e. can I get by with not doing anything for a while (a while being another 10K miles or so).
My second question: I feel I'm getting reamed on this repair estimate, as I've sourced the OEM Bosch sensors online for around $180 each as opposed to the full pop he was going to charge me of $303 each. Is this a job the average Joe can do himself? I have VADIS, and it appears self explanatory although a bit clumsy - has anyone here ever done it? Is that Volvo special tool necessary? I have a clue when it comes to mechanical repairs on a car, but I'd say I'm an advanced beginner at best, with enough tools (and motivation) to get myself into trouble.
I don't see any sort of how-to in the various searches I've done in these forums.
Thanks for any help you can provide!
S80 T6 O2 sensor replacement...
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
A 'lurker'!!! We prefer members.
If the code has cleared and not returned I would say it is intermittent. If it were my car I would leave well enough alone for the time being. Obviously, if the CEL comes on again for the same problem then it should be replaced.
I have not done this job myself but have been told it is fairly easy, with the correct equipment. The special tool makes removal and refitting easier as it grips the sensor without risk of damage. IPD stock a suitable tool but you may be able to hire one for the time you would need it.
Obviously this task is done under the car and a hoist would be an advantage. I certainly could not lie, now, under a car for the length of time this repair would take, but my joints are old. (My thoughts are still young).
In my opinion your mechanic is being rather excessive with his rates. Tell him you will supply the sensors and ask how much he would charge to fit them. Then ask other mechanics the same question. All of the independents I know will fit your own parts, if they are suitable.
Bill.
A 'lurker'!!! We prefer members.
If the code has cleared and not returned I would say it is intermittent. If it were my car I would leave well enough alone for the time being. Obviously, if the CEL comes on again for the same problem then it should be replaced.
I have not done this job myself but have been told it is fairly easy, with the correct equipment. The special tool makes removal and refitting easier as it grips the sensor without risk of damage. IPD stock a suitable tool but you may be able to hire one for the time you would need it.
Obviously this task is done under the car and a hoist would be an advantage. I certainly could not lie, now, under a car for the length of time this repair would take, but my joints are old. (My thoughts are still young).
In my opinion your mechanic is being rather excessive with his rates. Tell him you will supply the sensors and ask how much he would charge to fit them. Then ask other mechanics the same question. All of the independents I know will fit your own parts, if they are suitable.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1999 Volvo s80 T6 it takes about 1-1.5 hrs with jack and stands to replace one or both front sensors. No special tools are required.
Brake loose the O2 sensor from above with a 7/8 or 22 mm regular flat wrench (remove the bar with the bushings that connects the strut towers from the frame of the car and the upper engine mount bolt to access the sensor) then go under the car and remove the exhaust support member, then remove the drive's side wheel to access the O2 sensor connector, unplug and unscrew the sensor. Replace the sensor. Reassemble in reverse order.
Bosch O2 sensor $79 http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-oxygen-sensor-front-s80-17036
Good luck
Brake loose the O2 sensor from above with a 7/8 or 22 mm regular flat wrench (remove the bar with the bushings that connects the strut towers from the frame of the car and the upper engine mount bolt to access the sensor) then go under the car and remove the exhaust support member, then remove the drive's side wheel to access the O2 sensor connector, unplug and unscrew the sensor. Replace the sensor. Reassemble in reverse order.
Bosch O2 sensor $79 http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-oxygen-sensor-front-s80-17036
Good luck
-
gpdeering17
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 22 February 2016
- Year and Model: 2001 S80 T6
- Location: Texas
I'm another "lurker" who just joined. Very helpful info on this site. Thanks to all!
Back in October, I bought a used 2001 S80 T6 with only 75k miles and excellent body condition. The dealer informed me of the CEL, but didn't really know in detail what was wrong. I figured that with a few hundred dollars, I could replace a few sensors...
Yeah right! The car was immediately driveable for a couple of weeks. However, because it failed to start one morning, I had it towed to the local Volvo dealership for diagnostics. The report came back that: the PCV breather box was leaking, the struts needed new seats, and some other stuff. (This is my son's car. He misplaced the mechanic's list of needed repairs. The mult-thousand dollar repair estimate depressed him!)
To make a long story shorter, I replaced the breather box (nothing was wrong with old one, I discovered) and cleaned out the hose with kerosene. Now the car is giving a P0443 (an Innova 3160 scanner). A local mechanic also scanned it (not sure with what) and said it needed a new "purge valve" and an upstream O2 sensor. He didn't say which bank. And I only bought one from IPDUSA.
Meanwhile, my son and I replaced not only the strut seats, but the struts and mounts, too. I'm not done there because I stumbled upon the recommendation to replace the lower strut bolts, too.
I took a look under the car and found the upstream O2 sensors. Holy cow! How is someone supposed to get in there? I have a 22mm sensor socket, but I can't see how a rachet handle can turn inside that narrow exhaust pipe cavity. I saw this thread and read about disconnecting it near the driver's front tire. (I'm presuming that nothing has changed from a 2000 T6 to a 2001.) I've already removed the engine mount bar that fastens to the strut towers, but I'm finding it hard to believe that I can reach far down behind the engine to get to the sensors.
Well, I just thought of a possible solution while typing this: I bought a O2 sensor socket kit from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012S ... ge_o02_s00
One of the sockets has a long arm. If I use a socket extension, I might be able to drop it down between the pipes and beneath the car to put a rachet on it.
Any ideas here? Also, does anyone recommend VADIS over my current scanner (Innova 3160) and a subscription to AllDataDIY? However, I'm not very impressed with AllDataDIY. Nothing beats a printed Haynes manual (besides the actual service manuals).
Thanks.
Back in October, I bought a used 2001 S80 T6 with only 75k miles and excellent body condition. The dealer informed me of the CEL, but didn't really know in detail what was wrong. I figured that with a few hundred dollars, I could replace a few sensors...
Yeah right! The car was immediately driveable for a couple of weeks. However, because it failed to start one morning, I had it towed to the local Volvo dealership for diagnostics. The report came back that: the PCV breather box was leaking, the struts needed new seats, and some other stuff. (This is my son's car. He misplaced the mechanic's list of needed repairs. The mult-thousand dollar repair estimate depressed him!)
To make a long story shorter, I replaced the breather box (nothing was wrong with old one, I discovered) and cleaned out the hose with kerosene. Now the car is giving a P0443 (an Innova 3160 scanner). A local mechanic also scanned it (not sure with what) and said it needed a new "purge valve" and an upstream O2 sensor. He didn't say which bank. And I only bought one from IPDUSA.
Meanwhile, my son and I replaced not only the strut seats, but the struts and mounts, too. I'm not done there because I stumbled upon the recommendation to replace the lower strut bolts, too.
I took a look under the car and found the upstream O2 sensors. Holy cow! How is someone supposed to get in there? I have a 22mm sensor socket, but I can't see how a rachet handle can turn inside that narrow exhaust pipe cavity. I saw this thread and read about disconnecting it near the driver's front tire. (I'm presuming that nothing has changed from a 2000 T6 to a 2001.) I've already removed the engine mount bar that fastens to the strut towers, but I'm finding it hard to believe that I can reach far down behind the engine to get to the sensors.
Well, I just thought of a possible solution while typing this: I bought a O2 sensor socket kit from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012S ... ge_o02_s00
One of the sockets has a long arm. If I use a socket extension, I might be able to drop it down between the pipes and beneath the car to put a rachet on it.
Any ideas here? Also, does anyone recommend VADIS over my current scanner (Innova 3160) and a subscription to AllDataDIY? However, I'm not very impressed with AllDataDIY. Nothing beats a printed Haynes manual (besides the actual service manuals).
Thanks.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






