will i need any more part for suspension and timing belt kit Topic is solved

hanzbe420 · Post by **hanzbe420** » 06 Feb 2013, 00:47

Will i need ball joint? engine mounts ( Is there 5 mounts? 4 round ones and the one near the timing belt cover right???????) or what else will i need for this kit? http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-c ... 850kit10fr And i got 135k on my car, witch timing belt kit should i get???? And any other parts i might need for full suspension and timing belt kits. Basically my 140 major maintenance is coming up in 5k, is there anything else i will need? i figure engine mounts. timing belt kit that fits my serial # and suspension kit. Just please let me no what you guys recommend getting for my 94 850 turbo wagon. And all the side parts needed. And is it really worth doing all this? please let me no. I no its allot of work.

hanzbe420 · Post by **hanzbe420** » 06 Feb 2013, 04:22

I am going to work till 5 then would like to order these parts, so if any1 can answer by 5pm est that would be great thank you.

FCPEURO · Post by **FCPEURO** » 06 Feb 2013, 07:09

Dan from FCP here, please give me a call and I will guide you through finding all necessary components 877-634-0063 x 213. If email is easier for you I can be reached at [email protected]

Post by **cn90** » 06 Feb 2013, 08:04

I just did the 140K-150K service and wrote it up below.
Believe it or not, the Volvo dealer TB kit is the cheapest PN 30758260: TB, and 2 pulleys ---> $110.

Anyway, the detail is in this thread (where to get parts etc.). Front Cam Seals can be done now or later, up to you.
Don't forget the serpentine belt and pulleys.

DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 Timing Belt, WP, Cam Seals, SB Overhaul.

Post by **erikv11** » 06 Feb 2013, 08:37

About suspension: I personally wouldn't buy that kit because the only OEM parts in it are the shocks, struts and spring seats. I worry about the URO brand strut mounts, HLC end links and the FCP brand control arms, those are very low end parts. The Meyle tie rod ends may be fine or may be junk, I do not have experience with those. Most people don't replace everything at once but it is up to you. It is true that front end parts do tend to go out at about the same mileage (~100k to 160k) and you will learn a lot replacing them. Still, I would start with just the struts, including quality strut mounts and spring seats, and probably replace the end links while you are at it. Again, a cheapie end link is not a good idea it will break within 18 months. And there isn't any advantage to doing control arms and tie rods at the same time, replace them with quality parts when they wear out. Meyle HD is a quality and affordable control arm at FCP. Factory tie rods can last a very long time.

Engine mounts I only replace when they break. Inspect them for damage and or move the engine around while looking at them. There are four mounts that are easy and common to replace:
(1) under the crank pulley called the front engine mount, this one breaks a lot and causes clunking when turning-starting-stopping,
(2) on top of the engine called the torque mount bushing (this one also goes out very frequently),
(3) on the firewall anchoring the bracket from the torque mount bushing, and
(4) underneath the engine near the radiator called the transmission torque mount.

There are also hydraulic engine mounts between the engine and the subframe. Those are pretty difficult to replace and rare to go bad. Replace them if they are leaking hydraulic fluid or if they are sagging so much that the transmission is sitting on the subframe (peek inside the driver's side wheel to check that out).

Post by **xHeart** » 06 Feb 2013, 11:51

First, I will make timing belt and suspension two separate projects, each with beginning and end.

Then, I would consider the need for steering components such as tie-rods, end links while deciding on suspension parts.

Second, look for thermostat, sensor, and hoses for heating and cooling while planning for timing belt project, together it is mother of all system.

Prioritize, and spent your time and money wisely on tools and parts, no short cuts.
There are many very helpful posts here at MVS on DIY, supported with feedback, true hands-on stuff.

hanzbe420 · Post by **hanzbe420** » 08 Feb 2013, 04:32

ok i decided to tackle the timing belt first. I am at about 136k so 4 more k right? and erikv what parts should be replaced in the kit like the uros and other crappy brands. I have already had bad exp with uro.

Post by **erikv11** » 08 Feb 2013, 09:39

You must replace timing belt and both pulleys for sure. Period. The hydraulic tensioner is almost 20 years old so I would replace it unless it was replaced at the 70k belt change with an OEM one. In that case let the hydraulic tensioner go until next timing belt change.

The two pulleys must be Volvo branded which is made by INA.
The hydraulic tensioner must be Volvo branded which is made by Aisin.
The timing belt can be Volvo branded or Continental branded. Conti is going to be cheaper if you shop around.

If you want the ease of a kit and great customer service then go with this from FCP, it has both pulleys plus tensioner plus timing belt for $236
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-t ... kit252-oem

But you can save a few bucks if you shop around, for Volvo-branded parts this site is great, you can get the parts in that FCP kit for only $188:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... eid=216970
30758260 contains all Volvo branded belt, idler pulley and tensioner pulley, $110
9146693 is Volvo-branded hydraulic tensioner, $78.

Other parts:
This is a good time to replace the serp belt but it is easy to do any time. Continental or even Gates or Dayco is fine for this part. See cn90's link for advice on where to get this part cheap.

The water pump you can wait until it goes bad or replace it now, it is up to you. Personally I would probably let it wait for budget purposes but you must at least check it for play in the shaft. If there is any play or if you want peace of mind, then replace it. If you replace it then I would recommend Hepu, Aisin or Volvo brand. Again, shop around a bit.

Presumably the front cam seals are not leaking oil but if they are, then see cn90's excellent link (above) for procedure and where to buy them. I would only replace them if one of them is leaking.

hanzbe420 · Post by **hanzbe420** » 15 Feb 2013, 04:39

i am trying to figure out how i am gonna do this and what exactly i should order. i wish i just had a part list in front of me and thats it. The suspension is shit and timing is coming up i think i will get the full timing kit just to be safe as for the suspension i def need shocks and struts, the end link bushings are done. and everything else looks intact but almost 20 yrs old. I dunno were to begin lol, If any1 else has just replaced this what list of parts did you get and whats the best deals out there. this has been weighing on my mind all week driving me crazy lol

Post by **xHeart** » 15 Feb 2013, 07:13

hanzbe420 wrote:i am trying to figure out how i am gonna do this and what exactly i should order. i wish i just had a part list in front of me and thats it. The suspension is shit and timing is coming up i think i will get the full timing kit just to be safe as for the suspension i def need shocks and struts, the end link bushings are done. and everything else looks intact but almost 20 yrs old. I dunno were to begin lol, If any1 else has just replaced this what list of parts did you get and whats the best deals out there. this has been weighing on my mind all week driving me crazy lol

Lee and Robert (not Grant) often reminded me to keep it simple.
I have been in your situation hanzbe420, it costs more but stayed with OE/OEM only.