1998 V70 timing belt crisis - help needed!

rollingon · Post by **rollingon** » 18 Mar 2013, 01:57

I am trying to change the timing belt and water pump on my 1998 V70 XC AWD Turbo 2.4 Ltr. Having had both 40,000 miles ago, the water pump put in then developed a premature leak, so while replacing it, I am also putting in a new timing belt.

I have done much of the typical procedure; lining-up inlet and exhaust cam marks, removing serpentine belt and tensioner, timing belt upper and lower plastic covers, tensioner and idler pulley, and I cut the old timing belt off. Removing the guard around the lower half of the crank pulley, which is held on by the two 10mm bolts, I decided to thread the new timing belt around the crank pulley, and to replace the guard, before replacing the engine side of the plastic timing belt cover and the water pump, because, from the top, it looked like that was when the crank pulley was most accessible.

When I fed the new timing belt around the crank pulley, I realised that it would not seat, and then, feeling around the underside of the pulley, I realise there is an obstruction that I cannot see which, while it allowed me to retrieve the old belt when I cut it, makes it impossible to thread a new belt around the pulley.

How do I get the new timing belt on with the least amount of complication and extra work? I have temporarily incapacitated our car and we need it running again asap. With the right side of the car supported by a jack, I cannot see the obstruction under the crank pulley from any angle, but it leaves me thinking that there is no way to put the timing belt on without removing the pulley and its 30mm nut, which is both difficult to reach and certain to disrupt the position of the crank (timing) in relation to getting the belt back on and to the cams. I have read several different post/tutorials about timing belt changes, and no one mentions having to remove the crank pulley/harmonic balancer to get the belt on. I have not yet replaced the water pump, as I am worried that I may need to remove the engine side of the timing belt cover again in getting the belt around the crank, and because it does not seem to want to come out of the car with the water pump in place.

Can someone 'talk' me through how to get the new timing belt on from the point where I encountered the obstruction under the crank pulley? Where are the timing marks on or around the crank pulley? I can see any anywhere, Should I scribe in my own and then remove the 30mm crank pulley nut, and remove it and the balancer? Why hasn't this been mentioned in so many tutorials, which simply say you have to work an new timing belt around the crank pulley and then up past the idler to the crank pulleys? What am I doing wrong. Some detailed advice would be much appreciated.
Thank-you.

fn42 · Post by **fn42** » 18 Mar 2013, 07:40

I think the obstruction you're talking about is the vibration dampener, in that case it's definitely possible to slip the belt around it (turn the belt sideways and push it up parallel to the crank pulley)

It's tricky and I think the volvo books actually recommend removing the crank pulley but it's possible

Post by **cn90** » 18 Mar 2013, 08:16

Wet the TB with some water, it will slide in fine.
Don't use oil because you have to remove the oil later.
A little of water will make it slide in fine.

Post by **rspi** » 18 Mar 2013, 09:15

My wife told me long ago... "don't start important or difficult repairs near or after your bed time, it will usually cause frustration and simple mistakes".

Hope you got it worked out. I posted an answer on VolvoForums.

Post by **xHeart** » 18 Mar 2013, 09:17

Imagine pole vault when swiftly sliding and clearing the thumb. Soap water it.

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 18 Mar 2013, 09:30

OK, the belt is a little tight to get back on, just angle the belt and slide it up. You mentioned that you put on the dirt shield already, that comes last.
The water pump needs to be replaced before the belt is back on. Be careful... the old gasket must come off and the block very clean before you place the new gasket on. Don't leave scrape marks on the aluminum block.
The more you hurry the project the longer it will take. Don't worry about the belt cover being off, just worry about the timing marks being one tooth off after you put the plastic cover back on top.

Post by **erikv11** » 18 Mar 2013, 09:35

The obstruction is a bolt head. You just have to be patient and work the belt around it, I don't really know any other way to describe it. Lubricating the belt will not help, it's about the angle. If you are still working on it do some searches, this has been posted about many times before here and there are longer descriptions.

Post by **cn90** » 18 Mar 2013, 10:08

O.P.,

The obstruction is a little knob on the Oil Pump, see photo (knob is located at 6 o'clock position on the photo).
Just wet the TB with a bit of water, it will slide in just fine.

rollingon · Post by **rollingon** » 18 Mar 2013, 12:46

Thank-you all for the good advice. I never thought I had to remove the harmonic balancer and/or crank pulley to get the new timing belt on, so what everyone has suggested fits with that. I will try to raise the car a little so that I can actually see the oil pump protuberance, and work the belt around it. Thanks CN90 for the great picture, which clarifies the issue. Odd that this didn't come up in the Stickies/tutorials I found.