850 Blower motor

Roadrunner · Post by **Roadrunner** » 13 Sep 2012, 20:35

I checked the number five fuse and it was good. But as stated I do not have a fuse box cover and I pulled up some info from the net. Not sure if it is for my car. As for checking this ECC code which hole and block should I put the wire in?

Post by **stone36** » 06 Mar 2013, 14:53

So my similar problem with this is as follows. My 850 has been mostly parked since November and has had some snow build up and melt. I took it for a drive the other day and had no fan at all. Heat works when at higher speeds due to pass through, but no fan. I checked the fuses and #5 was blown, replaced it and the fan worked on 4 only. Fuse 31 is good. So now I am wondering what the best course is, the fan sounds fine on 4, not noisy really. Could I have had water somewhere in there that blew the fuse and then blew the resistor?

I would like to try replaceing the resistor with one of the $3 ones from radio shack that I've read on here about, but wondering what you all think the issue may be.

Is it most likely that the motor is bad, blew the resistor and fuse, or that it could have been a water short that blew the resistor and then the fuse? If it was your car what would you do?

Post by **stone36** » 18 Mar 2013, 20:34

Follow up,
I went to radio shack, got the new thermal fuse soldered in and assembled today... The battery was dead so as soon as I connected the jumper cables, the fan kicked in on high.

So what does that mean, do I just need to bit the bullet and buy a new resistor pack? Fan is still smooth, clean and not squeaky, I put the OEM cabin filter in about 6 years ago which I think prolonged its life.

timmyc · Post by **timmyc** » 18 Mar 2013, 21:55

Stone,
Honestly, it could still be the blower motor. I have replaced numerous motors on my daughters' 850 and they have all been from the bone yard, so their life is short. What I have found is, when you have an older motor, the resistance to get the motor started is enough to, one: blow the fuse or two: only run on high. And all of the motors I have installed typically run quietly on high.
Good luck. They can be a PITA. Fortunately they are easy to replace.

Post by **stone36** » 18 Mar 2013, 22:43

Thanks Timmyc,

I did want to clarify, the fan is blowing on high with out the car being on, at first I had a blown fuse and had not fan at all, when I replaced the fuse it worked on 4 but not 1-3 so I thought it was thermal fuse.

But now it runs the battery down to dead, no key in the ignition and fan set to 0 or off. Is that a different problem than the fan being worn out?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 19 Mar 2013, 06:32

stone36 wrote:Thanks Timmyc,

I did want to clarify, the fan is blowing on high with out the car being on, at first I had a blown fuse and had not fan at all, when I replaced the fuse it worked on 4 but not 1-3 so I thought it was thermal fuse.

But now it runs the battery down to dead, no key in the ignition and fan set to 0 or off. Is that a different problem than the fan being worn out?

The max speed relay is stuck on. There are two small relays on a shelf next to the blower resistor. One controls the AC Compressor and the other controls speed 4 on the fan. I can't remember off the top of my head which is which but you can remove them, one at a time, until the blower turns off and that will be the bad relay.

This assumes that the car was not retrofitted with the time delay blower "feature" that was supposed to help the AC evaporator from going bad as quickly. I don't think they did that very long since they figured out that just adding a cabin air filter would eliminate, or at least slow down, the evaporator failures.

...Lee

timmyc · Post by **timmyc** » 19 Mar 2013, 09:51

Lee is the man when it comes to Volvo's. Check his recommendations first then check this: When I first pulled the motor out to replace it, I replaced a pigtail connection to the wrong connector. It is a 2 wire connector that has a red and a black wire. I believe that it is on the bottom of the motor housing. The connector snaps on to the housing. Anyway, there is another connector that it fits into that also has a 2 wire combo of the same color. These two will inter change and the result is getting a fan that runs all the time. Now, this is assuming that you had the motor out and unplugged all of the pigtail connections.

Post by **stone36** » 19 Mar 2013, 21:16

timmyc wrote:Lee is the man when it comes to Volvo's.

+1

So here is a recap and some pics for the next guy with the same problem. It turns out I did reconnect the wrong wires...
If you look in this picture, you can see the 2 circled connections. The bottom right (reddish) one fits perfectly into the blower motor and the the upper (orange/brownish) fits directly into the bottom left female with the red/black wires. After reading timmyc's comment about the plug, I looked this afternoon and realized if I had connected them right the red/blak wires would have matched up on both the male and female not going to the blower motor.

Once I connected it correctly all was good! I was glad my solder job worked...

But for the next guy, here is was Lee was referring to.
In this picture, you can see the blower motor and to the left you will see a Blue and Black relay, my instinct says, blue is A/C cause it's cold... wrong
Blue is the fan
Black is the A/C relay

So hopefully these pics can help the next guy see what Lee is referring to. I have the Manual Climate control (MCC) by the way.

Thanks again for all the help!

850 Blower motor

Re: 850 Blower motor