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Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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MatDesign84
Posts: 239
Joined: 29 April 2007
Year and Model: 1997,855 T5
Location: Johnson City, TN
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Post by MatDesign84 »

auctions.volvospeed.com/DISCOUNT-9498-850VSC70-Turbo-Cooler-Lines--3-Money-Saving-Options,name,100046,item_id,0,ad_type,ad_detailsOkay I just finished this job and have a tip that will save a lot of time and effort for everyone. I too was having a touch time getting the torx head bolt off at the thermostat and tried everything. I got to thinking of some old advice from dad for a similar situation and voila it worked. I managed to use a 4mm (may have been 6mm) allen wrench to get it off. I also used this method to get it back on again.
Currently: 1997, 855 T5 | 1998 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5
Previous: 1997, 850 GLT | 1993, 850 GLT | 1988, BMW 325i, 1990 Volvo 240 DL
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robocam
Posts: 51
Joined: 12 April 2009
Year and Model: 850, 1996
Location: Missouri

Post by robocam »

I just tried to remove the two torx bolts through the wheel well, and I think I may have stripped the inside of the holes. Normally I would use a Dremel to cut slots into the bolt heads and use a standard screwdriver to remove them, but the area is too tight for that. I thought about using a drill bit to drill the heads off, but how do I remove the rest of the screw? I wonder if once the heads are off, if the studs would be easy to remove. Does anyone have any other ideas on how I might get those two bolts out? I hope I won't have trouble with the 4mm bolt holding the lines in. Thanks in advance.

holler1
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Location: West Virginia

Post by holler1 »

Maybe a small Ez Out (screw extractor)? What size Torx did you try? I got mine out with a #30.
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xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

robocam wrote:I just tried to remove the two torx bolts through the wheel well, and I think I may have stripped the inside of the holes. Normally I would use a Dremel to cut slots into the bolt heads and use a standard screwdriver to remove them, but the area is too tight for that. I thought about using a drill bit to drill the heads off, but how do I remove the rest of the screw? I wonder if once the heads are off, if the studs would be easy to remove. Does anyone have any other ideas on how I might get those two bolts out? I hope I won't have trouble with the 4mm bolt holding the lines in. Thanks in advance.
Oops...

I had struggled with the two torx screws on thermostat, first timer.
The design was such that the screw did not thread at the hosing cover, just passes through it. And then it would screw into the lower housing. Thanks to Ozark Lee for this info.

I was successful with the 1/4" left-handed-drill-bit, making counter-clockwise rotations to help it pull out at the same time, using oil to lubricate. Choose a bit size wider than the shank.
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jreed
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Post by jreed »

I guess I got lucky when I removed my oil thermostat a couple weeks ago. I used the tool set up shown below.
T40 bit + 1/4 socket + 1/4 extension
T40 bit + 1/4 socket + 1/4 extension
VolvoOilCoolerLines07.jpg (140.94 KiB) Viewed 1642 times
If it is of use, you can check out the DIY guide I wrote up here:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 4&p=282639
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

98T5
Posts: 320
Joined: 11 August 2007
Year and Model: V70T5,98' / 940,93'
Location: Texas

Post by 98T5 »

HOw much oil and coolant is lost during this repair. I'm about to order my lines this week and get it done.

thanks.
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holler1
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Joined: 25 June 2008
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Location: West Virginia

Post by holler1 »

There should be no coolant loss, and only a little oil coming out, basically oil in the lines. I think most of the oil drains back into the engine when it isn't running.
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2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
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1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
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1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
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jreed
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Post by jreed »

+1 on that! I measured about 1/3 of a liter of engine oil coming out of the thermostat and lines, and there was more still in the lines and more that I wiped up on towels during the job. You won't need more than 1 liter of oil for topping up with at the end, assuming you don't remove the oil filter and drain out all the engine oil.
I would recommend removing the oil filter so you can lower the oil thermostat down and out more easily.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

Scott_850T-5
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Joined: 15 April 2013
Year and Model: 850 T-5, 1997
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Post by Scott_850T-5 »

So I've gone through all of the posts on this and I have a slight twist as far as issues go. I'm also leaking radiator fluid from the top oil cooler line, where it attaches to the radiator. Does this mean I need a new radiator? Its a very small bubbling weep...best way to describe it. Just noticed it the other day as it finally gave me a low coolant warning. So its not loosing a lot. Is there an easy repair, or is this a complete radiator replacement?

Side note this is after having a new A/C condensor put in at a shop in NC. Then I drove across the country, moved to CA. Just noticing the coolant leak now that the car is in a garage.

Thanks in advance guys.

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jreed
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Post by jreed »

It sounds like a leaking radiator. If you can, post a close-up photo.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

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