2004 Volvo s80 t6. Is there any way to remove the timing belt cover without breaking the plastic thermostat bleeder elbow ?
I broke the plastic bleeding line elbow on the thermostat housing of my t6 when trying to remove the timing belt cover. what would happen if I get cheap and just seal the opening of the line on the housing to save the cost of replacing the housing? My s80 non turbo does not have a bleeder line and runs fine.
t6 thermostat housing bleeder line
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jimmy57
- Posts: 6694
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- Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
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It is hard to do but possible.
I wouldn't omit it. I have not known of any car maker to put pieces on their products with no reason. Sometimes we do not know of the reasons. There have been revisions inside the block to change water flow and one of the changes may have made gas pockets more likely and that is the bleed for them.
You could certainly remove tstat housing and tap and add a brass fitting and use hose and clamp.
A 1/8 " NPT to compression with a short length of properly shaped copper tubing in the compression fitting would be an alternate far less fragile.
The copper tube could be finished off with a solder on barbed fitting for hose to be slid on and clamped.
I wouldn't omit it. I have not known of any car maker to put pieces on their products with no reason. Sometimes we do not know of the reasons. There have been revisions inside the block to change water flow and one of the changes may have made gas pockets more likely and that is the bleed for them.
You could certainly remove tstat housing and tap and add a brass fitting and use hose and clamp.
A 1/8 " NPT to compression with a short length of properly shaped copper tubing in the compression fitting would be an alternate far less fragile.
The copper tube could be finished off with a solder on barbed fitting for hose to be slid on and clamped.
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birdman_s80
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 22 September 2010
- Year and Model: S80 T6 2003
- Location: Texas USA
Kudos to Jimmy57 for the hint on copper tubing!
I just had this problem on my 2003 S80 T6 while replacing the timing belt and using the hint from Jimmy57, I replaced the plastic nipple and tube with a 5/16 copper pipe and brass fittings.
I drilled out the plastic bleeder in the housing with a 5/16 drill bit which allowed me to insert a 5/16 copper tube in the housing.
I bent the tube very close to the top of the housing, it’s a kinked bend not a smooth bend, and then used JB weld to glue the tube into the housing.
Let dry overnight and then used a 5/16 to 1/8 brass compression elbow with a 5/16 hose barb to connect the rubber hose.
I had to slightly enlarge the hole in the timing cover to allow the compression nut to clear but now have a connection with no plastic and can remove my cover by loosening the compression nut. I bought all the materials needed at Ace Hardware. Home depot and other big stores don’t carry 5/16 tubing.
I just had this problem on my 2003 S80 T6 while replacing the timing belt and using the hint from Jimmy57, I replaced the plastic nipple and tube with a 5/16 copper pipe and brass fittings.
I drilled out the plastic bleeder in the housing with a 5/16 drill bit which allowed me to insert a 5/16 copper tube in the housing.
I bent the tube very close to the top of the housing, it’s a kinked bend not a smooth bend, and then used JB weld to glue the tube into the housing.
Let dry overnight and then used a 5/16 to 1/8 brass compression elbow with a 5/16 hose barb to connect the rubber hose.
I had to slightly enlarge the hole in the timing cover to allow the compression nut to clear but now have a connection with no plastic and can remove my cover by loosening the compression nut. I bought all the materials needed at Ace Hardware. Home depot and other big stores don’t carry 5/16 tubing.
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texasdieselguy
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 16 September 2012
- Year and Model: 2004 XC90 T6
- Location: Texas
I just finished changing the timing belt on mine for the first time... I dont see how its possible not to break that plastic fitting off! I removed the tstat housing, drilled it out with a 21/64 bit I think, and then tapped it with a 1/8" pipe tap. Found a brass fitting from an old Ford fuel inj pump (I work at a fuel shop, but I imagine you could find something similair at a hardware store) and just screwed it into its place. The barbs are heavy enough that the line won't blow or pull off. Also, I removed some of the material on the timing cover around the fitting to make it easier to reinstall.
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kickin_it
- Posts: 213
- Joined: 27 October 2011
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
- Location: Franklin, Tennesse
Sorry to bring up the dead but no sense in trying to explain all of this again.
Does anyone know of a possible part number Texasdieselguy used for the new nipple on the housing? I have drilled and tapped the nipple hole with 1/8 pipe tap but am having some trouble locating anything that will work. The orange box store was not very helpful this evening and my parts store closed on me.
Does anyone know of a possible part number Texasdieselguy used for the new nipple on the housing? I have drilled and tapped the nipple hole with 1/8 pipe tap but am having some trouble locating anything that will work. The orange box store was not very helpful this evening and my parts store closed on me.
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jimmy57
- Posts: 6694
- Joined: 12 November 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
- Location: Ponder Texas
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IF you go to HD or Lowe's or Ace they should have a 90 degree 1/8 NPT by 1/4 ID nipple in their brass bagged fittings wall. These are common. I purchased one at HD within the last few months. NAPA parts stores usually have a good selection of brass hardware also.
plan B is 1/8 NPT male by 1/8 NPT female 90 degree and a 1/8 NPT male with 1/4 ID barb .This second setup is about the same height installed so the room is there for it too.
plan B is 1/8 NPT male by 1/8 NPT female 90 degree and a 1/8 NPT male with 1/4 ID barb .This second setup is about the same height installed so the room is there for it too.
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