Always getting fresh air even though damper is closed

Gene51 · Post by **Gene51** » 27 Oct 2006, 13:01

A newbie to this forum,

Just got a 94 850 wagon with manual air and I have ahd a couple of problems that are related. In slow traffic or idling, there was a smell coming through the vents that reminded me of blow by. Closing the recirculating air damper had no effect on the smell coming in. As it turned out the PCV system was clogged and oil and crankcase gases were blowing past the dipstick. The dealer rectified this under warranty, however he neglected to take a look at the damper issue. I suspect that the air damper is not closing, either because the servo is not operating or the actuating rod that connects the damper to the motor has somehow become disengaged. Before I start taking things apart looking for this problem, has anyone had a similar problem? Is there anything else I should be looking at? And lastly, where are these components located? Are they easy to get to?

Thanks in advance for any asisstance I can get.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 27 Oct 2006, 17:16

It's been discussed here before. On early 850's especially there was an issue with a plastic arm slipping off of the dampner motor. This particular motor is located behind the glove box, up high. If you don't find a better answer, you might want to check that location to see if it has indeed slipped off. However, most with this problem also complain of a strange clicking sound in that area.

Gene51 · Post by **Gene51** » 27 Oct 2006, 17:53

That's great info - now I know where to look. Seems like I have part of Saturday morning planned out for myself. Chores can wait when there is a Swede in the garage that needs attention.

Gene51 · Post by **Gene51** » 28 Oct 2006, 13:31

Got to see the air damper by opening the panel under the windshield wipers and it was definitely open. Once I removed the glove box I could see the servo and linkage. I have two problems. The arm is not on the servo, and the servo is not operating. There is power to the connector, that switches on and off when I operate the dash recirculatiing air switch. So I suspect that I have to remove the top part of the dash in order to replace the servo, unless there is something I am missing. Thanks for your help.

Post by **mrreilly** » 28 Oct 2006, 20:59

I'm having the same problem with my S70. Would my car be having the same problem possibly??? And when my heat is on it feel humid. Shouldn't it be a dry heat coming in?

Gene51 · Post by **Gene51** » 29 Oct 2006, 02:53

The easiest way to find out if the air damper is operating is to press the button and listen. If you hear motor noise for a couple of seconds, then the motor is working but the damper is not operating.

If you hear nothing (as I did), the problem could be electrical - bad motor or power related.

In my case I had multibple problems. The motor was bad and link arm was not connected.

To establish whether or not you have this problem you take off the plastic shield beneath the windshield wipers. First you remove both wiper arms - there is one 13 mm nut on each one. Next you take off the fuse box cover plate (not the door, but the whole plate). There are four
#25 torx screws. Next you will remove the five #25 torx screws with washers holding the plastic shield. Wiggle and lift the shield. On the driver passenger side you will see the cabin air intake. Inside the intake is the damper. If it is down it is open. Gently try to lift it up. If you feel some resisitance it is connected to the motor, then your problem is just related to the motor. If it moves easily, then you have either a broken linkage, or your linkage has become undone.

Your next step is to check the voltage going to the motor. You will have to remove the glove box liner. Undo the torx screws around the front of the liner. Remove the two torx screws that secure the kick panel beneath the glove box. Using a nail or an awl, press in the right side of each hinge arm where it connects to the glove box door to release it. You can also remove the 4 torx screws that attach the door to the frame to give you a little more access.

Deep in the opening, to the left of the blower motor housing, you will see the linkage and the motor. Turn on the ignition to the accessory position, undo the plastic wiring connector at the motor, put a volt ohm meter on the black lead and one of the other leads (I can't remember which), and test the voltage as you operate the switch. You should see 12 volts that switch on and off as you operate the switch. If not, then you have to check the ground and the dash switch and all other wiring that may be involved.

If the motor is bad, or if the linkage is off, you will have to remove the top of the dash to get to the motor and linkage. There may be a way to re-attach the linkage without removing the dash, but I could not figure out how to do this.

Good luck and happy hunting.

Post by **billofdurham** » 29 Oct 2006, 12:05

On the manual climate control you should be able to get at the recirculation damper motor and linkage by removing the glove box and lid then work through the aperture. The motor is on the side of the heater fan motor housing. Disconnect the wiring connector and take out the two screws which secure it.

Bill.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 29 Oct 2006, 12:15

Bill...that's what I thought too. I don't really think you have to take the dash cover off.

steve · Post by **steve** » 29 Oct 2006, 18:57

On my ECC version the damper motor for recirculation is accessible from under the dash and or when the glove box is removed. Found this out when replacing the blower motor.

Gene51 · Post by **Gene51** » 29 Oct 2006, 22:12

Good to know there are only two screws holding the motor in place. Hard to tell when looking through the glove box opening. Once again, to all who have provided their advice - thanks.