tranny repair

swampdonkey · Post by **swampdonkey** » 02 Jun 2013, 10:41

hey all this is my first time owning a Volvo and I picked up a 2001 s80 t6 before finding out how crappy the trannies are and was wondering if anyone have the step by step of dropping the sub frame.

swampdonkey · Post by **swampdonkey** » 02 Jun 2013, 11:04

im also wondering if its better to replace the tranny or rebuild it. I have 1st and 2nd in manual mode but that's it. and if anyone could tell me what they think could be going on will be greatly appreciated

rerobin66 · Post by **rerobin66** » 08 Jun 2013, 16:51

I purchased a 2000 s80 t6 with a bad tranny. I had it rebuilt because I was told that some of the faultier parts have been improved on a rebuild, and new ones are actually assembled with the new but original "weaker" parts. Not sure how true that is but it sort of sounded logical. As far as the subframe there are four main bolts and several smaller bolts that hold brackets and such for attached parts, etc. You do have to hoist or support the engine from above. And the engine has to be able to tilt alittle to allow the tranny to be removed from below. It takes about 10 hours to remove and reinstall. Also there are bolts that the tranny "shares" with the oil pan. So be careful not to break the seal of the oil pan unless you want to totally take it off while you have the opportunity to. If you remove the oil pan you should do an o ring job on it for sure while you have the subframe dropped. And mounts if they are showing wear. See more topics about orings when you get a chance.

p8ntman442 · Post by **p8ntman442** » 08 Jun 2013, 20:28

Make sure you buff the bellhousing and the block so when they go back together the car will start. Its free to do. Just want to make sure there is a good electrical connection between the engine/trans.

While the transmission is of GM design, many of the internal parts are VOLVO specific and can not be swapped with the GM version. IE, all electronics and the sprag clutch.

I had mine done for 3K with warrantee, and they took a bath on the labor because it came out 3 times, once for the rebuild, once to buff the bellhousing when it wouldn't start, and then another to replace the sprag clutch two weeks after the rebuild. Im not shy about pulling transmissions, but rebuilding them yourself is a no-no. Lots of worn parts inside like the pumps and stuff you will miss.

matt5112 · Post by **matt5112** » 10 Jun 2013, 10:58

http://www.tripleedgeperformance.com

1.5 year, 24K mile warranty. Known for performance rebuilds for GM 3800 guys, also has had great success with the Volvo version.

Since you're in Germany, you can order the parts and have your local transmission shop do the install. A shop known for performance rebuilds would likely have better success.

You can rebuild it yourself, you'll end up spending 1000-1300 in parts and specialty tools, and probably taking a couple months to go through everything. You'll want the repair manual for it as well.

http://www.bonnevillepro.com/forums/vie ... =28&t=3218

The main issue is clutches wear, then slip and the transmission cannot mechanically compensate other than raising line pressure. This isn't helped by the transmission running hotter than normal, failing PCS, and low line pressure commanded by the TCM. Heat will burn the clutches, and slip creates heat. On that note, it's a good idea to install a nice oversized transmission cooler with some form of temperature regulation.