Post Radiator Replacement Problems

CoryLeeS70 · Post by **CoryLeeS70** » 24 Jun 2013, 17:16

Greetings Volvo community! I've recently purchased a 1998 Volvo S70 (N/A) on the cheap and I'm having a few problems; I was hoping someone more knowledgeable than myself could maybe steer me in the right direction in tackling these issues. I'm kind of sort of mechanically inclined so feel free to use somewhat technical jargon when responding; I plan to do the repairs myself if at all possible. I suppose I'll begin with the radiator as the title insists. I noticed a small trickle of coolant under the passenger side of the radiator and eventually determined that the radiator had a small crack in it so I ordered a new one. I proceeded to install the new radiator (Very fun job I might add) and changed the oil, thermostat, and the upper and lower hoses while I was down there. I finished the job, filled the car with coolant and took it for a trip around the block. The car warms up and stays in normal temperature parameters. It idles at 900 RPM and runs fine at a stand still but when I'm at speeds above 20 miles an hour the car sometimes jerks and feels as though it wants to conk out, quite scary when you're traveling at 65mph on the highway. I'm assuming this a fuel/air issue? This never occurred until I put the new radiator in. I suspect a vacuum line has either gone missing or has stopped functioning properly. I changed the spark plugs and wires but nothing seemed to change. I'd really like to get this car back into a decent reliable vehicle. Any insights on this would be greatly appreciated and feel free to ask any questions, I'll be happy to answer any of them to the best of my knowledge.

CoryLeeS70 · Post by **CoryLeeS70** » 24 Jun 2013, 17:20

I should also mention that prior to all of this radiator crap I took the car to the emissions and it failed miserably. Running rich and misfiring on all five cylinders. Coil problem maybe? I'm getting pretty poor gas mileage and the car idles at a decent RPM, but it's a rough and fairly noisy idle. I hear a faint ticking sound that seems consistent with the RPM levels. The more I rev, the faster the ticking.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 24 Jun 2013, 19:56

You may have more than one issue to sort out.

Is the Check Engine light on? If not, does it come on with the key in Position II but the car is not running?

What we really need is some error codes to work with, otherwise we are just guessing. If you don't have a code reader most of the chain auto parts stores will read the codes free. Be sure to get the actual Pxxxx numbers, not the auto parts store suggested remedy. Nine times out of ten they tell you that you need a new (and very expensive) oxygen sensor to cure your problem. Nine times out of ten they are wrong.

...Lee

Post by **jblackburn** » 25 Jun 2013, 06:13

Unplug the mass airflow sensor and see if it will run or drive. If it smooths out, you've found your problem.

Post by **jpr0204** » 25 Jun 2013, 06:28

+1 Lee....

LMAO! You can go to an Auto Zone with a hole in the muffler asking them why the car is so loud and they'll tell you to put in a couple of O2's and everything will be all better...

Lee is correct, when you go for a "free" code scan the code that comes up tells you what sub system the fault lies in and the "roundabout" area if you will where the fault lies...

But, a lot of times whenever someone (other then a professional) reads the codes for you they will try and sell you what THEY think is wrong. For example, if you have a P0300 which is a misfire code, THEY will tell you may you need a new coil (even though it may be a bad spark plug, a dead injector, etc...) then you spend money on the coil, replace it, and it doesn't fix the problem, even though THEY said it was the coil. Then, you try and return it, and they deny you the return because "It's an electrical part and once you install you own it."

So, beware....

- Joe

- Joe

Post by **E Showell** » 25 Jun 2013, 09:43

Run a compression test on all cylinders. If it comes back zero on any cylinder, you may have a burned exhaust valve which is common on these cars of this age and may be the reason you picked up the car cheap, because if that's the problem, you're in for some expensive repairs or a quick trip to the wrecker's yard.

Post by **rspi** » 25 Jun 2013, 18:07

Compression test.

Also, these cars are a little sensitive to Volvo tune up parts.

CoryLeeS70 · Post by **CoryLeeS70** » 26 Jun 2013, 06:09

These are the codes I'm working with

P0172- System too rich bank 1
P0442 Evaporative emmission system leak detected (small leak)
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire
P0300 random/multiple cylinder misfire
P0302 cylinder 2 misfire
P0303 cylinder 3 misfire
P0304 cylinder 4 misfire
P0305 cylinder 5 misfire

I guess this is just going to be a process of elimination deal? Should I start with a new coil/ plugs and wires?

CoryLeeS70 · Post by **CoryLeeS70** » 26 Jun 2013, 06:40

Also, I constantly hear about aftermarket parts not sitting well with these vehicles. Where is a good place to buy reliable parts for these cars?

Post by **abscate** » 26 Jun 2013, 06:54

Corey - thats too general a statement to be useful, IMHO

When you get to a specific repair, post it up for guidance on what parts to use and what to avoid.

For instance, for cooling group, there are a lot of posts about URO (bad) vs OEM Volvo. You have to temper this with intended use. If its a 'around town' Volvo being driven by me never more than 30 miles from home Ill use a cheap part.

If Pumpkin is taking this one to Cornell for 4 years, its getting the 'blue box'