DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Front Bilstein TC Strut Tips/Tricks Topic is solved

[cn90]

Update on tips/tricks, this is my other car 1998 S70 GLT with 150K. All suspension is stock.

- Again, I used Bilstein TC struts ($110/each online).
- For Mount, Bump Stop + Boot: Volvo OEM.
- The Strut Bearing: I bought INA brand online ($50/each).
After removing the factory bearing, it was clearly marked "INA" (OEM Supplier). At 150K, the bottom shield of bearing has cracked, the bearing has some play, not severe but time to go.

- One strut has a flat part at the top (to counter-hold while undoing the nut), the other has Allen hole!
- I stripped the Allen hole while counter-holding the shaft.
- The Vise-Grip on the shaft itself is not useful without heat!
- At factory, they used Loctite, so I heated the nut for a good minute to melt the factory Loctite, then the nut turned loose. Loosen the nut but do NOT completely remove this nut without first compressing the Spring!

So if you don't have air tool, a propane torch is a must when doing this job!

Good Luck!

S70Strut01.JPG (106.26 KiB) Viewed 2543 times

S70Strut02.JPG (96.32 KiB) Viewed 2543 times

S70Strut03.JPG (77.62 KiB) Viewed 2543 times

[erikv11]

The top nut just holds the strut mount in place, it is totally fine to remove the top nut without spring compressors in place. In fact, a lot of people remove the top nut while the strut is still in the car because you can just hit it with an impact at that point. It's the cross-shaped nut underneath, that you don't want to touch until the spring is secured.

Strut bearing = strut mount
Black rubber part with the small sleeve in the middle = spring seat

[cn90]

With a broken mount (both of my mounts were broken), it is very dangerous to remove the big nut completely.
The full force of the Spring applies to the perimeter of the rubber mount.
This was why I said "loosen, but do not remove the big nut". Safety first!

People need to stop thinking about "different names" for the "same part".
Different online vendors called the same part different names.
Even the terminology given by Volvo is somewhat convoluted, example: Volvo called the "Bump Stop" as "Helper Spring". Maybe the "Bump Stop" helps the spring lol.

Anyway:
---> A bearing is a bearing.
---> A mount is a mount.
BTW, eeuroparts calls this a "Mount", autohausaz calls the same thing "Coil Spring Seat".

But who really cares about the names, go by the PNs.

[erikv11]

I can see your point about the top nut, I suppose there is a chance of danger for a completely naive DIYer. We don't want anybody getting their face ripped off.

No, eEuroparts doesn't call the spring seat a mount. They call it a bushing, more precisely a "strut mount bushing."
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/9708/St ... -30683637/

The reason for terminology is so everyone knows what you're talking about.

I disagree with your "who cares" comment as the whole point of this forum is communication. Very few people are going to learn the part numbers associated with the strut mount (do you know them?). But two words "strut" and "mount" should be manageable.

And even if a few vendors did mistakenly call the bushing a mount, that wouldn't make them right.

[cn90]

...The reason for terminology is so everyone knows what you're talking about...

erik,

This is exactly what I disagree, the only way to identify a part properly is the Part Number, not the names because different vendors tend to give the same part different names.

The same part is called different names "Mount" vs "Seat" by different vendors, just check eeuroparts vs autohausaz websites and you will see they called the same parts with different names.

You mis-understand my "who cares" comment, all I say is go with PN and done. No point to argue over the names because the vendors make it confusing for people.

Well, a person in the US can have different names but only one Social Security Number. That is my point.

[reg gole]

I wanted to post some of my thoughts after performing the following: L& R strut replacement (bilstein TC kit from IPD), sway bar end links, outer tie rods, control arms, front pads-rotors-1 new caliper (piston LH piston had too much pitting and rust due to the last service by volvo which cost me $1000...failed dust boot install),2 x SS front brake lines, brake bleed, IPD strut tower brace.

I was keen to perform the strut compress and change over all the components supplied in the strut kit, but after the compressor slipped causing the spring to bow, I freaked. I had to buy another pair of compressor springs to recompress the bowed side of the spring. It was nerve wracking compressing the spring down and then release all the tension from all 3 compressor units simultaneously. Afterwards, I decided to hand the struts off to the suspension shop and have them compress and change over all the bits. What a relief to have a fully assembled pair of struts waiting for me and then simply mount them. All for under $100 CDN.

The point here is about being rational about personal safety in pursuit of saving a dollar. These forums are such valuable information resources; however, I think sometimes these forums lend a false sense of empowerment and understanding in light of the inherent dangers with some automotive maintenance. Repair and replacement of struts is one such case. I am capable and adept at many of the repairs with my volvo s70 T5 and I have to thank this forum and some the geniuses that contribute to the database. Thank you! But I had to put the brakes on the strut replacement because it is the most dangerous repair I ever attempted on this car. DO NOT perform this repair unless you have: personal disability coverage, (for USA readers) extensive healthcare coverage due to personal injury when your 50$ strut compressors slip while the strut nut is undone. So do yourself and your family a favour and pay the few dollars for shop to change out your struts.

That is my tip/trick to add here.

[cn90]

Good point on personal safety.

This is why when I posted this DIY, I used a total of three (3) spring compressors.
See Step 14 in the 1st thread for the photo of 3 spring compressors.
So in the rare event that one spring compressor fails, you still have 2 other compressors!
I used to use only 2 compressors, but now I always use 3 compressors.

- Also point the spring away from where you work.
- If anyone feels unsafe, do what you said, bring the thing to a shop and let them deal with it.

[erikv11]

Many people find this style of spring compressor easier to use. It's definitely safer, but like with any tool you need to follow instructions:

currently $69 at Harbor Freight

strut_compressor.jpg (128.24 KiB) Viewed 2318 times

[oragex]

Just found this topic at the graveyard, and have a question: what if the spring seat is about to give up i.e. the rubber is badly cracked around the center sleeve.

If the sleeve gives up right when you have the strut in your hands, will the coil spring take off for the Moon?

[erikv11]

Nope. The arms of the cross-shaped nut (#4) extend out beyond the collar of the spring seat, so that provides the first level of protection. Remember, the spring seat has a large metal plate inside of it. And as long as the top nut (#1) is still in place, that in combination with #2 and the strut mount will also keep the strut tower together.

Don't look straight down on a strut tower until the compressors are attached, treat it like a loaded gun should be treated.