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1994 Volvo 850 Turbo PCV Replacement

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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ManManOhMan
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Year and Model: 850 Turbo 1994
Location: chicago

1994 Volvo 850 Turbo PCV Replacement

Post by ManManOhMan »

Need Advice!! When cleaning the holes at the engine block is it safe to use a chemical cleaner or not? I am about to tackle this job and I am very inexperienced. I just want to make sure that I replace and clean everything thoroughly! Also, come to find out I have an EGR Valve and it may complicate taking the intake manifold off. Will I have to remove the EGR before being able to remove the intake manifold?
Last edited by ManManOhMan on 14 Jul 2013, 22:15, edited 1 time in total.

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rspi
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Post by rspi »

Yes you are right about the EGR. It takes a little time but you have to get a wrench under there and unbolt it. Can't remember the size. Once you have the EGR off, make sure you clean out the ports that go with it. I had about 80% blockage with that stuff. I had to scrape the carbon off with a screw.

As for the ports in the block, they go to the oil pan so you don't want to use chemicals that you don't want in your oil pan. I used a longish screw to poke in the hole and pull the stuff out. Once I got the visible part cleaned out I pushed a zip tie or something down the holes to make sure there was no more blockage.

It's just time consuming. Make sure you get the right kit for your model and do NOT use any elbows that are not VOLVO. I have seen the URO elbows melt away in a year.

'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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ManManOhMan
Posts: 124
Joined: 1 June 2013
Year and Model: 850 Turbo 1994
Location: chicago

Post by ManManOhMan »

Thank you for the forewarning on using non-Volvo hoses. I would be pretty upset spending all that time, money, and effort replacing/repairing my PCV system to have to spend the money, time, and effort to do it all over again.

Do you believe it is possible just to disconnect the stainless steel pipe to the EGR and then remove the intake manifold? Thanks rspi!!!!!

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Mod note- I've consolidated some responses on PTC and EGR into this thread to eliminate cross posts.
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ManManOhMan
Posts: 124
Joined: 1 June 2013
Year and Model: 850 Turbo 1994
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Post by ManManOhMan »

abscate wrote:Mod note- I've consolidated some responses on PTC and EGR into this thread to eliminate cross posts.
I don't mean to be insolent but I don't understand your message. What does that mean?

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Post by polskamafia mjl »

abscate is explaining he made some formatting changes to the thread.
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rspi
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Post by rspi »

There is a tube that bolts to the motor down there under the intake that has a 19mm or 22mm nut on it that has to be taken loose. It is a slow pull because there is so little space and you can only turn it about 1/8th of a turn at a time.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

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Post by jblackburn »

Something like SeaFoam may help clean out that lower port, but really, the best thing is just to scrape it out and make sure it's clean around the bend as well.

Make sure to change the oil if you use SeaFoam.
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ManManOhMan
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Joined: 1 June 2013
Year and Model: 850 Turbo 1994
Location: chicago

Post by ManManOhMan »

rspi wrote:There is a tube that bolts to the motor down there under the intake that has a 19mm or 22mm nut on it that has to be taken loose. It is a slow pull because there is so little space and you can only turn it about 1/8th of a turn at a time.
Awesome, so does this mean I can just loosen the 19mm or 22mm nut then remove the intake manifold?

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Post by jblackburn »

The two big bolts - dipstick and the bracket that holds the intake manifold down - need to be removed entirely. They're a pain to get to.

Get a box-end ratcheting wrench.
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It will make your life 23489723423x easier than trying to get socket wrenches with a billion extensions up in there to reach that.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

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