Engine Washing?

eb2143 · Post by **eb2143** » 09 Nov 2006, 22:11

I want to wash my volvo 5 tomorrow, just with a garden house and some mild soap on the non-engine components. Anybody else wash? Anything to be careful of specific to this engine?

Post by **luketrash** » 09 Nov 2006, 22:18

The 850s seem to not use the biodegradable wiring harnesses that the Volvo 240s used from about 1981-1990... It was always a big no-no to get a Volvo engine wet..

I won't wash my 850, but I imagine it's possible. Since the rotor and cap sit sideways on the engine, it seems like it'd be easier to get moisture in there and make the car run bad. Also, on the block, you have knock sensors that are not visible when looking at the car.. they're back behind the intake manifold.. There's the EGR temp sensor, which is a spendy little part, also electric..

The starter and other stuff exist down in the bowels too.. I'm new to these cars, but I'm just leaving mine.. if I was going to clean the engine, I'd just use a hand towel sprayed with cleaner and wipe it by hand rather than soak the whole thing.

eb2143 · Post by **eb2143** » 09 Nov 2006, 22:25

thanks, any other opinions?

I know the first reaction to getting an engine wet it like, "whoa what about the electrical components?!" but not counting the alternator, which you really don't want to soak, my experience thus far is that engines can get very wet without a problem and that it is more a common fear than an actual danger.

Then again, maybe the Volvo is different

Post by **luketrash** » 09 Nov 2006, 22:29

I drive Volvos and VWs.. I've just grown accustom to never getting them wet

The whole engine can get wet in rain or snow up in the same parts. I had a lot of sand sitting on top of my starter that I noticed when I had the intake off.

I think the rules are the same for most cars though.. Engine degreaser plus a low pressure rinse works well to clean off dirt and grease, but it's important to get it rinsed off well so that the degreaser doesn't eat anything made of plastic or rubber.

CarVolvo · Post by **CarVolvo** » 10 Nov 2006, 11:04

I have washed my motor more than one occassion. I actually used a power sprayer to clean the top of it. and the edges.

Several things I have done is..

1.Pre-treat using simply green or another degreaser and let it sit.
2.keep the engine runnign while i wash it
3.Pay particular attention to the distributor cap and other major electrical contacts. (some recommend you actually put plastic around those parts..ofcourse when the car is not running.)
4. if you pretreat the engine then you dont have to use the force of the water to get the gunk out.
5. Ofcourse dont get your hand clear of moving parts if the engine is running.

My philosophy is .. these cars work in harsh environments and built to take all types of weather and conditions. A little water and common sense wont hurt them.

By the way.. mines a 93 as old as they come... keeping it running ensures if any water is getting into anything the warmth of the engine and running parts will get it by that misfire.

I also believe if you clean your engine it should run better since it has less dirt insulating it. I have heard many people say.. dont wash your engine because all the crap in it keeps gaskets and things from leaking.

I would think that if a car with that much internal engine compression is held in by gunk...then you really are taking a chance.

Post by **billofdurham** » 10 Nov 2006, 12:13

I second everything CarVolvo says except, maybe

5. Ofcourse dont get your hand clear of moving parts if the engine is running.

I prefer to keep my hands clear. (Nit picking)

Seriously, my engine gets washed twice a year like this and I have never had any problems with dampness, but I do get great trade in prices.

Bill.

eb2143 · Post by **eb2143** » 10 Nov 2006, 15:04

I will do a powerwash then. However, I will cover the distributor and the ignition coil + NOT use simple green: it is too harsh on aluminum.

Post by **JRL** » 10 Nov 2006, 16:06

CarVolvo wrote:I have washed my motor more than one occassion. I actually used a power sprayer to clean the top of it. and the edges.

Several things I have done is..

1.Pre-treat using simply green or another degreaser and let it sit.

3.Pay particular attention to the distributor cap and other major electrical contacts. (some recommend you actually put plastic around those parts..ofcourse when the car is not running.)

.

This is a good rule of thumb. It is NOT a good idea to have the rngine running while washing but DO turn it on and let it run for at least 1/2 hour after.
DO cover or protect the plug and wire area. Put plastic or at least a towel over them.
Liberally gunk, let sit. Use a long handle stiff brush to loosen and clean everything, then wash or carefully pressure wash everything off.
We do this all the time, just be careful of the plugs, wires and rotor area

CarVolvo · Post by **CarVolvo** » 10 Nov 2006, 19:09

ierhfihusf;hi;swf;isfhb <--- this is me typing with the stumps that use to be my hands MR.Bill!

One word of advice on powerwashing..make sure you do not spray ID labels like the timing belt change label etc... it will come off and you will have no idea what the serial numbers etc are on when you wash it off.

Hey JRL..please tell me why its not a good idea to wash a engine while the engine is running?

Tsquared · Post by **Tsquared** » 10 Nov 2006, 19:22

If a power washer has worked for you - great. I have had bad experiances with high power water streams.

My method: use a spray cleaner that is aluminum/rubber safe and scrub brush on the built up grease. Using low pressure water rinse the engine. Repeat if necessary. Then use a high power blower to dry the engine spending extra time around ignition and wiring components. I also rarely wash the engine - only if I am trying to trace an oil leak. I will wipe it down during the oil drain during the service.