1995 850 GLT intermittantcrank problem, RESOLVED new starter

[alexwastaken]

My GLT Wagon (140k miles) runs without a hitch. It's never had problems starting, and I've never had a dash light come on. The other day I got in after refueling, and the car wouldn't start. When I turned the key, nothing. I still had full power to all my electronics. I messed with the shifter to make sure it was fully in park. I also turned the steering wheel a bit to make sure it wasn't in that weird lock position that can sometimes cause a no crank. Anyway, it fired right up after a minute of messing with them. Drove it for a month or two, and it happened again. So I try the same routine. After about 15 minutes of messing with the shifter, and checking fuses, it starts right up again. Four days later I get the same problem, but this time I can't get it to start. I give up trying after about 30 minutes. 5 hours later I come out and it cranks up on the first try. My battery voltage looks good and the connections are clean. I haven't tested the starter yet, but I've never had any slow starts or any other reason to believe it's going out. My mechanic cousin swears it's a relay. He thinks they are beginning to fail, or just getting too hot. I've researched that the fuel pump relay often goes bad, but would that cause a no crank, or would I have seen any other symptoms while the car is driving. The only other relay I would suspect is the main relay up near the radiator. Or could this be a completely different issue?

[mikealder]

I would be looking at either the ignition switch electrical portion or the auto box PNP switch before trying anything else, the only relay the engine start signal runs through is the alarm relay idented as 210/211 which you can just about see if you look up above the brake pedal, the relay box is at the top, best use a torch as it isn't easy to see - Mike

[abscate]

In the US, use a fire extinguisher with a torch. A flashlight wont require one.

(Sorry Mike, Colonial humour - thanks for your info)

[alexwastaken]

I would be looking at either the ignition switch electrical portion or the auto box PNP switch before trying anything else, the only relay the engine start signal runs through is the alarm relay idented as 210/211 which you can just about see if you look up above the brake pedal, the relay box is at the top, best use a torch as it isn't easy to see - Mike

Is there any way of testing the ignition switch, or is it just something you replace and hope for the best?
And are you referring to the PNP switch that connects to the transmission? Isn't this what people replace when they get the "up arrow" dash light and start having transmission problems? Should I have noticed any transmission trouble before my no crank incidents?

[mikealder]

The two items I mentioned are just more prone to failure than the alarm relay, the PNP does far more than just inhibit the starter when not in park, some of its other failure modes do indeed make the transmission arrow flash.
The ignition switch is another known weak point on these cars and is an easy component to swap out, it is only the electrical switch portion so it doesn't disturb the keys etc.

Where I live in the UK is a very good indie who lets some of us take an assortment of components when debugging a car then once it is fixed return with the unused parts and pay for any used items, I guess such places are hard to find these days though - Mike

[abscate]

Thread here

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... ch#p285008

I havent taken this apart to see if it is repairable - I might still have my old one if you think thats useful for diagnosis.

[alexwastaken]

Thread here

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... ch#p285008

I havent taken this apart to see if it is repairable - I might still have my old one if you think thats useful for diagnosis.

Excellent how to. Thanks for offering the old part, but I think I'll be okay. My only problem is that my car is currently working. I have no idea when it's going to fail to start again. So I guess I just need to install a new ignition switch and hope I don't see the problem. I may pull off the old and inspect it for burnt pins like your's had.

[abscate]

Alex

When I turned the key, nothing. I still had full power to all my electronics

This is pointing me away from the ignition switch - you usually get a bunch of stuff going off when the ig switch goes.

There is a small metal braided wire that runs between the starter solenoid and the starter terminal on your starter motor. When that corrodes, you will get intermittant starting and finally, a no-start.

Its hard to see on the Volvo I5 engine but that might be your problem.

[alexwastaken]

If this braided wire corroded, would the car ever start again? Because my problem happened again yesterday when I went to leave the store. I cycled the shifter a couple times and got no results. Then I used the old fashion method of hitting the left side of the steering column, and it fired right up. Seems like a corroded wire would cause it to not ever start again. I plan on checking it this weekend just to make sure though.

[Ozark Lee]

There is a way to isolate the problem - if and when it reoccurs.

If you look at the wiring harness as it goes by the left (driver's side) shock tower you will find a connector with a Green/Red wire sticking out of the harness with nothing attached to it. That is the service starter connection. If you run + battery voltage to that connector it will crank the starter.

If the car will not crank when using the service starter connector then the problem lies either in the PNP switch or the starter itself. If the car does crank there, but not with the key, than the problem is with the anti theft relay or the ignition switch.

This test will at least let you know where to focus your attention.

...Lee