PCV service didn't release pressure.. Now what?

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 11 Nov 2006, 19:52

I had a mercedes 190 e that had really excessive blowby,It would drench the air filter,it was that bad. I tried some additives thinking it would loosen the piston rings. It didn't work for me. I did end up pulling the engine apart and nothing would of freed the piston rings. The rings were frozen in the piston grooves and not expanding against the cylinder bore. I honed the cylinders and put in new set of rings, new valve seals and it solved the problem.
If you do try an oil additive to clean the engine ,follow the cans directions, I know when I tried it ,it said don't rev the engine, don't drive it and a few other things. I guess it is a cleaner and doesn't lubricate real well and can do other damage like engine bearing damage, in other words be cautious.

Post by **kelvin6** » 11 Nov 2006, 23:45

luketrash wrote: But people seem to swear by it.

I love Auto-RX

!

Post by **akitawagon** » 13 Nov 2006, 00:23

Me too! I wish it didn't cost so much.

The benefits were well worth it though.

rikrik · Post by **rikrik** » 13 Nov 2006, 00:29

is this the stuff, dosent seem to expensive, ive seen more expensive additives than that....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUTO-RX-Oil-treat ... dZViewItem

Post by **luketrash** » 13 Nov 2006, 07:53

I'll probably try this stuff out. Is it better to do it in warm weather though? We're just entering winter now.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 13 Nov 2006, 17:43

luketrash, I don't think it really matters when you do it...just do the obligatory 2K miles or so and then go to the "rinse" cycle. Not sure of the exact miles so you will want to check their site to get prepared. Be ready for some strange engine sounds, etc. as the gunk is getting cleaned out, and usually a really gunked up oil filter. I hear this is all normal.

dasapir · Post by **dasapir** » 13 Nov 2006, 18:39

Hey, Luketrash, if it makes you feel better, I have taken the plunge. I have put auto-rx in my wife's '95 windstar with 123,000 miles and also in my '98 S70 turbo with 74,000. as of this writting all is well. After changing the filter, pour it in to your existing oil. After 1500 mile of driving crain oild and change filter to an inexpensive 100% oil (no synthetics). Drive 2,000. If you have over 100,000 auto-rx recommends repeating the above for a 2nd clean. then afterward go back to your original oils. There is much talk about this on Bob is the oil guy forum. In fact, it has taken on the pitch of religous fervour. I have yet to read about any detrimental effects from auto-rx. The most said, from what I can garner, is that it is over-priced and that seafoam and other products do the same for less. As MIJ said, if probably doesn't matter when you do it from all I have read and for starters I am doing it now and I live in a similar climate as you.

By the way a quick question, when you changed your front R. motor mount could you see that it was broken? g'luck.

Post by **luketrash** » 13 Nov 2006, 19:23

Reading about the science behind it, it seems like the good thing is that it works slowly enough not to damage the engine. If you dump seafoam or marvel mystery oil in your crankcase, it's potent enough to pretty much eat up everything and I think it defeats lubrication efforts of the motoroil.

So i might order some and give it a try, but not until after Thanksgiving. I'm going to drive the car for a while to monitor its performance.

The engine mount I removed was still in tact. I think motoroil leakage from the oil cap, down the side of the engine softened it. It wasn't bumping the frame though. It might have had ehough travel to the edge of its limitations though, and transmitting vibration that way.

The car still vibrates more than my diesel VW car at idle though. I'll be continuing my quest for engine isolation.. The engine itself doesn't idle rough or shake.

dasapir · Post by **dasapir** » 13 Nov 2006, 19:28

I just posted a new thread on rough idle. Perhaps your answer with regard to the engine mount may be constructive. I will wait to see if others have any other suggestions before running to get a new mount. Seems relatively easy to replace and not exorbitantly expensive. thank you.

Post by **luketrash** » 13 Nov 2006, 19:37

Yeah, replacing it is easy. The only thing I'd reccommend is to use a piece of 2x4 wood between your jack and the oil pan of the engine to safely jack it up an inch or so to get the mount free and clear and reinstalled. I needed a 17mm box wrench to get the bolts on the frame started and finished. No room for a socket/ratchet.

And yep, the engine itself doesn't shudder or shake any worse than any other engine I've had. It seems to be tied into the fact that the car isn't a classic frame setup like I'm use to, and it's physically tied to the firewall.