98 v70 awd control arm replace and tie rod issue

wuttheheeck · Post by **wuttheheeck** » 04 Aug 2013, 20:58

Hi all.

I have a 98v70 awd. I am DIY a replacement on the lower front control arms. I am doing one side at time and right now just have removed the PS. Got the arm off with a little elbow grease and liquid wrench. I am puzzled how to disconnect the outer tie rod that connects to the steering knuckle. I hope my terminology is correct there.

Anyway the new bushings in the replacement control arms are so tight I can't rotate them in order to attach to the mounting bolts because the brakes and rotors are in the way. It is my understanding based on previous forums that the removal of this tie rod will grant me the access i need to reinstall the control arms.

I have also read that i could use a Tie rod separator, but if i can do it without purchasing another one time tool that would be great.

lastly,
my Shiltons manual says to tighten these bolts to a certain torque, but there is no way a torque wrench will fit on top of the bolt heads. any suggestions? tighten all the way i can, drive a little and tighten again?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 04 Aug 2013, 22:13

You don't need to remove the tie rod end to get the axle back in so long as the control arm is unhooked for the car at one end or the other. From what you said the control arm is removed from the car which is all the better. The steering knuckle will slide to the back and out far enough, with the tie rod hooked up, to get the axle seated and the end of the new axle started back into the hub. From there you just walk the end of the axle through the splines on the hub until it is seated. If you do want to remove the tie rod end just remove the nut, screw it back on enough to protect the threads, and give it a smack with a hammer. It should pop right out of the hole on the end of the steering knuckle.

...Lee

wuttheheeck · Post by **wuttheheeck** » 05 Aug 2013, 14:08

thank you lee,

I was able to complete the passenger side.

Does anyone have any tips for getting the drivers side bolts loose. The tranny is really close to the bolts and my socket and breaker bar wont fit.

ive read of people grinding down their sockets...but don't really want to go that route.

let me know,
cheers
sean

Warren561 · Post by **Warren561** » 05 Aug 2013, 15:08

Did you try just a plain old box wrench? Then add in a 2nd one for more leverage.

Picture for an example of the 2nd wrench for leverage.

wuttheheeck · Post by **wuttheheeck** » 05 Aug 2013, 15:20

great idea! thanks. Ive competed the drivers side now. I will use the 2 wrench method to tighten as much as i can. I can't figure out how to do a torque reading with such a small space. If anyone has tips on that let me know

Warren561 · Post by **Warren561** » 05 Aug 2013, 15:40

How did you end up getting the driver's side loose if your sockets and breaker bar didn't fit?

Post by **abscate** » 05 Aug 2013, 17:46

Clearance was problem, not fitment of the wrench to the hardware.

You can SWAG a torque on a big fitting by multiplying pounds force applied to the length of the bar - the longer the bar the easier it is to hit the estimated torque. These things need to be tight enough -not hyper-evenly torqued like a cylinder head.

Post by **mikealder** » 06 Aug 2013, 00:04

I guess this info is a little late now but just in case anyone else is reading it:

To increase clearance between the bolt heads and the gearbox simply disconnect the engine top mount and the gearbox torque link, pop a block of wood between the transmission and a trolley jack and lift the engine/ transmission slightly (to clear the bolt heads) doesn't take long and has to be done if you damage the threads on any of the bolts as it's the only way to get them out.

To make it easier to get the four bolts started in the new wishbone fit a spring compressor to the coil spring and apply tension to compress the spring, this will bring the suspension arm more level making it easier to start the four bolts - Mike

Post by **rmmagow** » 06 Aug 2013, 07:00

Mike, that is exactly how I did my 98 AWD. The originals were in there for keeps. A 24 inch breaker bar and an impact socket got them out. I have found that impact sockets are the best to use in many tight bolt situations as they don't crack so easily and tend not to round things off.

wuttheheeck · Post by **wuttheheeck** » 06 Aug 2013, 10:53

Warren561 wrote:How did you end up getting the driver's side loose if your sockets and breaker bar didn't fit?

Thanks everyone for the reply.

I used some penetrating oil, an offset box wrench and a lot of grunting and heaving. (sounded like a tennis player)