Volvo 850 S2 Transmission Solenoid Replacement w/Pics

[donis222]

Thanks for this write up.
I don't have a lift, but was able to do the job a little faster. On jack stands, I tied the motor in place and disconnected the mounts. With a jack on the front of the frame, I removed the front frame mount bolts and loosened the rear. I removed the fan and disconnected a trans hose. This allowed me to lowere the front of the frame and get to the bolts.
The above article describes the others things to loosen or remove. I didn't touch the rack and pinion, but disconnected the tie rod to remove the axles.
I did most by myself, but had help when lowering the frame. There is always something that you missed!
I was able to test that the solenoids work by putting in the battery turn on the key and shift in and out of D to N. If someone has there hand on the solenoid the click can be felt. I replaced S1 with S2 and tested it as well. I did this extra test because I was hunting for a problem causing the transmission to hesitate (slip?) from 1st to second. Solenoids can test OK but be stuck.
My problem turned out to be hard seals from age and heat. A bottle of transmission seal additive solved the problem for now.
Live and learn.

[Mr Sabetodo]

I just successfully replaced the s1 for a friend (with extreme trepidation) but didn't encounter the frozen torx that some warn about, in fact some came out w/ a 1/4 drive ratchet (luckily). And I did it in my garage w/o a pit or lift (though they would have helped). The small ratchet was my first choice because bigger ones need more room and more shuffling around of the engine/trans & wheel support frame. I supported the chassis on a jack stand behind the left headlight where there's a wide vertical seam to make it stiff, and another behind the rear frame support for good measure. The LF wheel comes off to access the left cover torx screw that hides behind the frame (remove a few fasteners and push a stick behind the plastic mud skirt to hold it out of the way). Then remove the engine mount bolts and put the jack under the trans. It tipped up about 3.5 or 4", I didn't force it. I used donis222 idea with the 2 big bolts in front that secure the engine/wheel support frame and loosened them about an inch, so the front of frame dropped down enough to get the pan out with practically no strife. The back bolts weren't loosened because the wheel/engine mount frame flexes on rubber grommets. Another jack under the frame in front is a good idea in case the front bolts come all the way out. I have doubts about using loc-tite on the cover torx screws because the pink stuff on the (removed) screw threads is at the top instead of the tip, and looks just like gasket sealer from the cover that got on it inadvertently. I'm not sure glue on the threads is necessary and may make it harder to remove (if necessary) in the future, at least on the awkward ones. I guess it wouldn't hurt those along the bottom though.

Many kudos to the intrepid explorers who have charted this strange land for the rest of us to follow.

[redchicken]

Hi, new user to this board. Thanks for the great write-up on how to get the solenoid cover off - I'm in the middle of it right now, about to replace the 'SL' solenoid.

I have managed to create some space and have all nine of the cover bolts out. But I am having two problems:

1. I can't get the cover to come loose, must be the sealant holding it on. I have pried on it gently and tapped on it gently, but I'm afraid to use too much force for fear of bending it. Any suggestions? I'm thinking of using a block of wood and giving it something more than a love tap (as a matter of fact I kind of hate it right now!).

2. The transmission temperature sensor line. I can't unscrew it because the wires will get all twisted up so I tried following it to the other end. It disappears UNDER the PNP switch never to be seen again. I would really like to get this wire out of the way, maybe I'll have to rig up some kind of hook to keep it pulled sideways. I'm worried about getting a 'clean hookup' when it comes time to put the pan back on.

Thank you to anyone who has some experience with this and some advice. I can't think of how much money I've saved over the years thanks to boards like this! Confession: this is actually for a 1998 S70 but it's identical to the 4 850s that I own and I'm an 850 guy at heart so I'm coming here for advice. Have a great day all you 850 lovers!

[redchicken]

Hi quick followup to my post. I realize now I should just expend my energy getting the job done and not asking dumb questions. Gave the cover a tap at the point where the upper line connects and popped it right off, and the answer to what to do with the wire was clearly spelled out (clip the zip tie), just didn't realize it Anyway got it all done, and no more flashing lights and arrows, and the torque converter locks up nicely.

Sorry to clutter up the boards I'll read more closely next time, and thanks again!

[deboboy]

Great thread; thanks all.

I'm about to experience the solenoid replacement journey myself with a Volvo mechanic friend of the family. But first need to order the parts. Where did ya'll find the solenoid parts online? I've searched the sites in the banner of this forum but none of them carry transmission solenoids [or at least I couldn't find them].

[Ozark Lee]

FCP carries them but you might actually get them cheaper through a dealership website. What car are you specifically working on? I will look up the part numbers for you.

Please also use the user control panel to add your car model along with the year to your registration information, that way we don't need to ask.

...Lee

[Bikerxjay]

2000 V70XC with codes PO756, 1218 will not shift at all after about 5 min warmup. Tranny shops will only do a complete rebuild at $2500-$3500. Did the flush thing twice..last time with some Translube. Didnt make a difference. Considering opening up the cover and checking/replacing the shift solenoids.
No lift so thought I would loosen the mounts, jack the tranny a bit and see how the bolts go working from the top and from what I can reach underneath. A few questions come to mind:
1. Since this great write up was for an 850 are there different issues to deal with on the 2000 V70XC.
One that comes to mind is the RTV sealant. After reading many other posts I saw something about a
gasket in one post...would this be used in later models instead of the RTV or does this 2000 use RTV
to seal the cover. It would really suck to do the job and have a leak and the RTV sounds a little
tricky to use correctly.
2. Any comments on cover access with this 2000 versus the older 850.
3. Does the computer need to be flashed by the dealer if one or two solenoids are replaced?
4. Does it make sense to remove and check the lockup solenoids even though code points to the shifts.?
5. Is it likely internal damage has already been done even though the code says shift solenoid? That is
what the tranny shop told me.

Thanks ,
You guys are great.

[Ozark Lee]

There isn't much difference between the 850 transmission and your XC transmission other than the mounts and, of course, the angle gear hanging off of it. There is an additional transmission mount on the left hand side of the transmission and another mount off of the angle gear, you may not even need to mess with the mount between the subframe and the angle gear, it serves more a travel limit than an actual mount. The mount on the left side is best accessed through the wheel well and I would just unbolt the mount from the transmission rather than trying to disconnect it between the mounting points, it is adjustable in height and trying to remove it from the mount will change the adjustment.

When I look at my pan seals it looks like RTV that has oozed out but I've never take one off since I haven't had to.

I guess the transmission could be messed up at this point but they usually aren't, it depends on how long it was driven with the bad solenoid and what gear it started out in. From the truth table it looks like 1st, 2nd, and reverse won't work without S2. I wouldn't expect a transmission shop to say anything except that it has to be completely rebuilt, I have yet to find an honest transmission shop other than a guy that I found with a craigslist post. The Craigslist guy removed, rebuilt, and replaced the 4L60E in my 4WD Suburban, complete with Kevlar bands, for $900.00. Most of the shops are just varying shades of crookedness in my experience.

As far as the computer goes, the solenoids are like a light bulb, they aren't programmed.

Of all of the solenoids I think SL is the one that give the most trouble for some reason, at least that is the one that we hear about the most often. I would be inclined to change that out as well while you are there but that is budget dependent.

...Lee

[woodsytf]

i am getting ready to replace the solenoids in my 1995 850, how do i determine whether i need the green or grey connector(ed) solenoids without opening the tranny?

[donc]

I ordered my solenoids from transparts.com. Its the cheapest place I've found. For the few dollars of cost, it just makes sense to order them all.